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Old 10-05-2015, 07:06 AM   #1
2 Rivet Member
Syracuse , New York
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 25
70' overlander - rear bath Floor question

Hey Folks…New to the forum and a new owner of a 1970 Land Yacht International. I am already into my first project. The angle support the blackwater tank decided to succumb to the forces of gravity on the way home. The brackets are rotted out as is the a good deal of the galvanized pan holding the tank. After removing the tank, and admittedly a bit concerned about what other gremlins I might find, I was pleasantly surprised at the condition of everything. The rear portions of the frame have some minor surface rust, but the remaining sections in underneath the belly pan still have most of the factory black coating on them…same with the cross members.

The only problem I found is the about 4 inches of the back plywood is rotted (rear bath). I’ve been using the search feature here, and the summation is that they have floor rot or they did and it’s been fixed. I feel like I caught mine early…

I understand there is a rear plate that holds the body to the plywood. I was hoping a few folks might be able to look at the pics and tell me if this a gut the bathroom to access that rear plate and repair, or if its something that can be addressed from below. I am still trying to sift through the forum threads to gain a good understanding of ins and outs and what exactly I am looking at... Gutting the bathroom doesn’t scare me, but I also don’t care to make more work than I need to – having said that – I need it to be done right. I don’t like to half ass things…

Link to the pics:

Thanks in advance for your time,

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Old 10-06-2015, 06:44 AM   #2
2 Rivet Member
Syracuse , New York
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 25
Tuesday morning bump for those who don't visit the '70 group.

I did find this pic on another thread...this gives me a pretty good idea of what I am looking at. Post 16 -

I am kinda thinking that I can work to support the body from underneath without gutting the bathroom...still chewing on it though...

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Old 10-06-2015, 08:42 AM   #3
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,860
Bad news--you are going to have to remove most of your bathroom to do the repair. Once the toilet, shower, etc. are removed, you will need to remove the lowest interior skins that cover your rear corners and across the back. The reason for this is that the bolts that hold the shell to the frame come up through the frame members, through the plywood subfloor, and then end up in the U-channel, and the bolt heads are hidden by the interior skins. You could cut your plywood back until you have gotten rid of all the rot and then scab in a patch, and then replace the fasteners connecting the shell to the frame through the floor, or you could replace the entire piece of plywood, which is a little more work. The plate you are speaking of will be visible when the center interior skin is removed. Again, the importance of seeing it is mostly in order to have access to the bolt heads. This plate is not welded to the frame, but bolted down.

You may be thinking that you don't want to touch any of those bolts, and that you will just cut slots in your patch where needed and slide the patch under the wall. This I would not recommend. You want that interface to be a very tight sandwich. If there is relative movement between the frame and shell, you will inevitably end up with the dreaded "rear end separation." In my case, I ended up having to replace the center section of exterior shell as well, as the rivets holding it to the rear hold down plate had torn out of the metal with the constant impact loading of the separated parts.

You will also want to seal up any new plywood you put in that area with poly or epoxy to help it resist future rot. The water that rots that piece of floor usually comes down the outside of the trailer and lands on the hatch of the bumper trunk. From ther, it is basically funneled directly into the end grain of the subfloor. So try to seal up that interface the best you can while you are there. Many of us have installed an "L" shaped aluminum flashing under the shell there to ensure that water stays out.

good luck!
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:55 AM   #4
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Syracuse , New York
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 25
Thank you for the reply. Your response makes good sense. I won't be getting into the project until spring time now, but i expect all the wood to be mush. As you mentioned it looks like the water did in fact come from the end and worked its way into the wood. Fortunately this appears to be the extent of rot in this trailer. Everything else looks pretty solid from what I have seen thus far.

Removing the bathroom and what not isn't concerning, i've tackled much bigger projects in my life. I would rather of piece of mind of doing it right.

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