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Old 07-28-2014, 08:29 PM   #1
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1970 27' Overlander
Highland , Indiana
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1970 Overlander just purchased!

Hello everyone new to the forum and also new as owner. We just purchased this one today and was looking to get any advice or thoughts on this beauty we will prob keep it the way it is for now till we figure out if everything work inside. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-28-2014, 08:43 PM   #2
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Welcome Jeff,

Congrats on the rig and your first post. It looks pretty good at 44 years old and I like the avocado countertop. The bath in our Avion is the same color.

Check for leaks and seal any shell penetrations accordingly, also check your tire age and maybe your axles. Otherwise spruce things up and enjoy camping while Summer is here. You can plan for any Winter repairs or renovation activities while enjoying the shade provided by your awning with a cold beverage in hand.


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Old 07-28-2014, 08:52 PM   #3
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1970 27' Overlander
Highland , Indiana
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Thanks Kevin
We are planning on checking for leaks this weekend going to make sure its water proof for the winter so I can start working on the inside. The tires,wheels and bearings are new brakes are also working good for now. I have been reading other post about this year AS and seems to be that all of the axles are being replaced I will have to check ours and see if they are ok. We pulled it home only about 40 miles and seem to tow ok with now issues.
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:00 PM   #4
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2012 30' Classic
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Wow, she looks really good! We had a 1975 Excella with orange counter tops until two years ago when we traded up for our 2006. We had the same oven as in your unit - I loved it! I also loved the twin bed configuration - much more comfortable sleeping and much more storage. You will have so much fun making this baby your own
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Old 07-28-2014, 09:34 PM   #5
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1966 17' Caravel
Newport , North Carolina
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Now that is a nice looking overlander! Looks like they cared about her so maybe she is ready for use? look under her see how good the exposed frame by the wheels look.
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:17 AM   #6
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1970 27' Overlander
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Thanks everyone on all the info I plan on checking out all those things this weekend. More stuff to come as we progress.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:44 PM   #7
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1970 27' Overlander
Highland , Indiana
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Was able to further inspect overlander this past weekend found some minor floor rot under the back compartment just under the battery will this be an easy fix? Or will I have to gut the bathroom to get at that section of the floor. Also noticed the the wheel well covers are loose and will need to be resealed does anyone know what type of caulk is used ?
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:57 PM   #8
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1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins , Minnesota
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If it is truly a small area of rot, and is now dry, there are epoxy hardening products that will firm up the area and hopefully delay any further 'extensive' repairs. Search the Forum for sub-floor repair. The original sealant around the wheel wells was Vulkum, which is no longer available. Tempro 635 is the current replacement, and can be found at vintagetrailersupply.com and other places.
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Old 08-04-2014, 08:57 PM   #9
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1970 27' Overlander
Highland , Indiana
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The frame looks ok just looks like some minor rust nothing major I did have to get a new set of tires installed. Also will need both axles replaced along with the shocks other than that the frame looks good.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:02 PM   #10
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1970 27' Overlander
Highland , Indiana
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Arktros thanks for the reply I have ordered some of that sealant from vintage trailer already just wanted to make sure that is what I can use for the repair as far as that rot goes it is a section about 14"wide by 28" long.
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Old 08-04-2014, 09:45 PM   #11
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1972 25' Tradewind
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If I understand you correctly, your area of rot is underneath the battery box. Pictures are always helpful on the Forum. You should understand that 1970s AS have a significant history of leaking at the rear at the access hatch and/or where the lower belt line attaches. This is especially true of rear bath models. So, if you are lucky not to have extensive damage back there already, you should spend some time sealing up that area. There are many threads on the Forum that address this issue.

All that being said, I would think if your damaged area is out of the way and still has some integrity, you should be able to get away with using the epoxy coatings that will harden the wood for the time being.
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Old 08-05-2014, 04:32 AM   #12
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Just a suggestion but when you disassemble or do a repair take a lot of pictures so that 1 you have a reference and 2 to post for brag or questions.
Cliff


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Old 08-05-2014, 06:43 AM   #13
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1966 22' Safari
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Penetrating epoxy

Quote:
Originally Posted by arktos55343 View Post
If it is truly a small area of rot, and is now dry, there are epoxy hardening products that will firm up the area and hopefully delay any further 'extensive' repairs. Search the Forum for sub-floor repair.
I have used a product called Git Rot with good results. It's easy to use and doesn't seem to have all the environmental warnings I found on other products. You do need to be careful about the temperature of the product when you mix and use it, but keeping it in the fridge works.
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Old 08-05-2014, 07:11 AM   #14
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1970 27' Overlander
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Looks to be in great condition and a twin sleeper just like ours....Be careful of the plastic surrounding the kitchen (above sink) window...it's very brittle!
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Old 08-05-2014, 09:16 AM   #15
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1970 27' Overlander
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Ok thanks for all the info guys I will post pics of the rot under battery later this week when I get a chance to remove battery tray and carpet
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Old 08-08-2014, 05:33 PM   #16
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1970 27' Overlander
Highland , Indiana
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Ok I have the bathroom gutted just wondering how to remove that section of floor ? It looks to be 5/8 plywood ? Does the belly pan have to come out too? Any Info would be great. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-08-2014, 09:14 PM   #17
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
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Wow, that was a quick jump to gutting the bath. From what I can tell the floor actually looks pretty good. Were you planning on a remodel or will you be reinstalling all the old pieces back? More pix would give us a better insight into what you found.

One thing you may want to do is change over to PEX pipe instead of the old copper. When I redid my bath there were several spots where the old pipe had split and been patched up.
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:07 AM   #18
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1970 27' Overlander
Highland , Indiana
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Yes I'am going to change all plumbing over to pex to many leaks in the coper pipes. The back of the shell is separating from the floor due to the rott its only bad at the very end of trailer about up to 4" in so I figured it would be best to replace the bath area with a5/8" sheet of marine plywood and cover it in marine epoxy paint. My question is on how to remove that section of belly pan so I can access the bolts that are attached thru the C channel? Will I be able to somehow lift the rear of the shell up just enough to remove old decking and install a new section in the bath only?Click image for larger version

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Old 08-09-2014, 06:25 AM   #19
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1970 27' Overlander
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Old 08-10-2014, 02:40 PM   #20
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1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta , Georgia
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That part of the belly pan is a steel box (heavy) which holds/supports the black water tank. To remove it, you will need to cut the weld along the sides, and remove a few bolts underneath. If the floor isn't too soft, I would recommend a penetrating epoxy such as West System an leave it at that. On our 1970 I found the steel rear hold down plate (it rivets to the lower rear of the body and bolts to the rear frame cross member) was rusted heavily and the cross member was powder. That was the cause of the separation for ours.

This link has a picture of the frame and pan with the shell removed.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...6&d=1382657854
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