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Old 08-17-2014, 07:50 PM   #41
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1997 34' Limited
1970 27' Overlander
South of Atlanta , Georgia
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Good work. Be sure to replace the hold down plate (it is a long "L" piece holding the rear body to the frame) if it was rusted out. With the interior skin off back there you can used bucked rivets.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:02 PM   #42
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Highland , Indiana
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Yes I got that piece out going to replace it as well.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:20 PM   #43
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Portsmouth , Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by susanada1 View Post
Hi, I'm new to this, but we are looking at pulling the trigger on a 1970 Overlander this weekend. a few questions....1.) It's all original with some functioning systems, great condition, 2nd owner, one crinkle in the back, left top side. Is $2500.00 a fair price? 2.) if we needed/wanted to change out black water and fresh water tanks and upgrade to 50 amp service, how far would we need to take apart the airstream to complete? Yet again, it's in amazing condition inside, so we will probably try to maintain it's originality if we can get systems functioning without tearing up too much. Floor appears rot free, belly pan is intact, trailer is rusty, but solid. Thanks in advance for any input. Will post pictures if we buy :-)
2500 is fairly cheap if it is in good shape with little to no frame damage and some minimal floor rot. No real reason to upgrade to 50 amp service unless you plan on adding a second AC and run it with the first.

What on the trailer is rusty? That is not a great sign. Just because the belly pan is intact, doesn't mean there is nothing wrong underneath. My suggestion would be to seek out somebody to help you inspect it before you take possession. Definitely post some pix BEFORE you buy. You might want to start your own thread for this, will get some better attention.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:29 PM   #44
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Was going to tell you that getting the last 4 feet out is very doable, but you're already there. If you check back in my blog, there are entries as to how I got the new flooring in and what you may encounter. There should be a piece of steel angle between the c-channel and the outer skin and if you had rot, you will probably also have some very bad rust due to the bimetallic corrosion. I cut that part out and replaced it with some heavy aluminum angle and then ran a piece of a gasket material between it and the top of the steel frame. Hopefully that will minimize any corrosion down the road. I also used new stainless bolts and nuts to put it all back together.
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Old 08-18-2014, 03:44 PM   #45
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I like that 2500. Good price for a project and a learning curve post a lot of pictures please! Looking forward to following your journey.
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Old 08-18-2014, 04:24 PM   #46
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Hello Deerfish,

Many versions of this repair have been documented, each with unique twists. Mine is here:http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/s...-a-119687.html Post 16 shows how I got the new flooring sheet in in one piece.

Have fun,
Alan
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:07 PM   #47
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Tenntex
Thanks for all the info you had on your repair and how you fixed it I read your forum on the repair looks good ! I like how you used the 2x4s and 4x4 to separate the frame to install the new piece of wood I'am going to use that idea for sure also going to replace the steel hold down bracket plate in the back above the rear hatch was thinking about using aluminum or stainless plate instead of steel stainless would prob be stronger than aluminum. Going to add an extra stringer behind the existing stringer to fasten the new sub floor in place then paint all the steel with Por15 and seal it up just like yours. Good job on your repair and I'am going to use your pics for reference.
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Old 08-31-2014, 08:33 PM   #48
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Got the the frame ready and Por-15 painted also have the Marine plywood cut epoxy painted and sealed ready to putt in tomorrow so far so good already dry fitted it to make sure it fits. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-31-2014, 08:42 PM   #49
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Click image for larger version

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ID:	220386 Also replaced the rear hold down plate and the tank supports too with 1/8" steel plate should be plenty strong. I read a service bulletin on drilling a 3/8" hole thru the back rear corners into and thru the frame,sub floor and C-channel and thru bolting with 3/8" bolts and large washers and lock nuts was going to do that as well only using stainless steel hardware we will also thru bolt the sub floor to the C-channel to.
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Old 08-31-2014, 09:24 PM   #50
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Great work - feels great getting that nice, new subfloor in place. Re the corner bolts through c-channel, floor, and main frame, that's exactly the way to do it. I and several others added a strengthening plate cut to the curve of the bottom of the c-channel in that area. Chilipepper has some good photos of his version here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ml#post1461126

Congrats on your progress!
Alan
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:22 AM   #51
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Alan
Thanks again for some more info on the plates for the C-channel I will do the same today and post more pic later.
Jeff
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Old 09-01-2014, 08:39 PM   #52
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Does anyone know if the rear hold down plate rest on top of sub floor or under sub floor??
When I removed rotted floor I couldn't tell how it went because the wood was already gone.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:05 PM   #53
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The order, going up, is rear crossmember, hold-down plate, subfloor, c-channel. In the pic, my stainless plate is heavily painted, and I also used a product called Eck Corrosion Barrier to minimize problems with the plate being in direct contact with the rear skin panel.
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:30 PM   #54
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Alan
I don't understand your pic its confusing. Does the hold down plate go under c channel then sub floor then cross member?
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:36 PM   #55
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Crossmember on bottom, then hold-down plate, then sub-floor, then c-channel
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:37 PM   #56
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Alan
The way I did it if you were looking at it from inside c-channel hold down plate subfloor then cross member would this be right? I didn't want to bolt it down till I knew for sure. Thanks
Jeff
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:40 PM   #57
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I think I did it wrong will have to remove floor and re position hold down plate before bolting it down it wont be to hard to pull it out and redo
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:44 PM   #58
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Thanks everyone for all the help
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:11 PM   #59
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Jeff,
I realize now how the pic orientation is confusing. It is looking up from below the rear crossmember; the dark gray is the hold-down plate. There is a backward reflection from the new Alclad skin I sistered underneath the old skin (to provide strength and especially to completely enclose the rear).

I'm sorry for the confusionů

Alan
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:53 PM   #60
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Alan
Thanks for the info got the floor and plate today will post some pics tomorrow.
Jeff
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