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Old 08-10-2014, 03:01 PM   #21
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1970 27' Overlander
Highland , Indiana
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviator View Post
That part of the belly pan is a steel box (heavy) which holds/supports the black water tank. To remove it, you will need to cut the weld along the sides, and remove a few bolts underneath. If the floor isn't too soft, I would recommend a penetrating epoxy such as West System an leave it at that. On our 1970 I found the steel rear hold down plate (it rivets to the lower rear of the body and bolts to the rear frame cross member) was rusted heavily and the cross member was powder. That was the cause of the separation for ours.

This link has a picture of the frame and pan with the shell removed.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...6&d=1382657854

Ok Wow! Looks like a big job my floor is ok accept for the last 3"
By the rear hatch its totally rotted out maybe I can just piece a new section in and split it on the last cross member any thoughts on that?
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Old 08-10-2014, 03:04 PM   #22
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My floor is ok accept for the last 3" by the rear hatch its totally rotted out was wondering if I could just piece a new section in and split it on the cross member any thoughts on doing it that way? Thanks again
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Old 08-12-2014, 05:26 AM   #23
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That would work IF your rear crossmember is in decent shape.
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Old 08-12-2014, 05:51 AM   #24
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1970 Overlander

Hi, I'm new to this, but we are looking at pulling the trigger on a 1970 Overlander this weekend. a few questions....1.) It's all original with some functioning systems, great condition, 2nd owner, one crinkle in the back, left top side. Is $2500.00 a fair price? 2.) if we needed/wanted to change out black water and fresh water tanks and upgrade to 50 amp service, how far would we need to take apart the airstream to complete? Yet again, it's in amazing condition inside, so we will probably try to maintain it's originality if we can get systems functioning without tearing up too much. Floor appears rot free, belly pan is intact, trailer is rusty, but solid. Thanks in advance for any input. Will post pictures if we buy :-)
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:19 AM   #25
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2500 is a great price I gave 7000 for mine butt have to replace plumbing and a section of floor in the bathroom. When you pull up carpet in the rear bath look at the back under battery by the rear hatch that is were the floor rott is on most A/S that age from what I have been reading look around the C channel on the edge of outer shell were it connects to the sub floor. Or you can stand on the back bumper and see if the shell moves with the frame as it should if it doesn't then u prob got separation and will need to inspect the floor and frame further to see were it is bad.
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:22 AM   #26
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Thanks for all your help Iam ready to pull out the rear floor hopefully I can get it out in one piece and install in one if not will have to add additional cross supports and putt it back in three pieces.
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:29 AM   #27
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Susanda
You will have to drop the lower belly pans to access the tanks. Will also have to remove some interior to upgrade the electric as well that will be tuff I would ask around or serch forum on that one don't think the wiring is big enough to handle 50 amp service mite also want to purchase a service manual from vintage trailer supply for around 70 bucks it will provide lots of info for your projects take lots of pics and label everything so you know how it goes back together.
Good Luck
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Old 08-12-2014, 10:10 AM   #28
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Thanks for the input. Will check for the separation in the floor! Will post pics as we have decided to become official owners. Good luck with your restoration project.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:42 AM   #29
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Been There, Done That

Greetings, and congrats on your year/model choice.

I ran into the exact same issue with mine, when all I wanted to do was re-plumb my toilet. Boo hoo. Anyway, even though it is only a few inches of rot, it leads to the dreaded R.E.S., aka rear-end separation. It is hard to believe, but the shell actually holds the frame up. With the rot, the bolts pull through the wood and the frame sags back there. I noticed in one of your pictures that the bottom rub-rail is dented up right above the frame; a tell-tale sign.

If you look through my thread, you can see how I approached it. I replaced the ply from the rear all the way to the next stringer. Pretty easy to do, really. With 2 or 3 people standing on your bumper, the wood slides easily out, and the new back in from the side. As Colin Hyde always says-"Do it properly". Especially when you have everything stripped out anyway. Oh yeah, also a great time to tackle adding a gray tank.

Cheers!
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Old 08-14-2014, 02:18 PM   #30
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Thanks for the advice on removing the wood I plan on starting that this weekend that is a good idea on having a few people stand on the back to separate the floor was planning on some cinder blocks too to help with removal will I be able to replace it in one piece? Or will it have to be split in three?
Thanks
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:15 AM   #31
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Fat Lady

I had multiple stand on my bumper, so it was all one piece. Yuck, Yuck.

Try reading this http://www.airforums.com/forums/f305...tml#post850136

I am not 100% certain on bathroom configurations on all 70's models. On mine, pulling the water heater allowed me to use a circular saw to make 95%-ish of the cut along the center of the first stringer forward. Once the remaining couple of inches were cut, I had 3 people stand on the bumper, and I was able to remove the entire piece all at once from the side. Same goes for putting the new piece back in. Once you have the rub-rail and banana wraps off, look at how far the skin comes down on both sides. What I found on mine is that it was shorter on one side versus the other; making moving the ply in and out much easier. Just be sure you get every elevator bolt out, or cut before you attempt. I couldn't believe how many I found along the back C-channel.

It was a long time ago, but I still remember the project being surprisingly easy. Hope that helps.

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Old 08-15-2014, 08:37 AM   #32
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Thanks again for all ur help its is very useful I also really enjoyed reading ur forum it was quite intertaining (LOL) I read the whole thing last nite and Iam sure We will run into the same issues as u did with yours. I will also prob steal ur idea on the bunk beds as for are son who is only 3 months old will enjoy it when we are ready to camp with it that will prob be when he is 3 (lol) hopefully sooner butt u know all that work takes time and $ which is always tite butt a least we got a good start and will keep on trucking to the finish line. Take care and I will prob pick ur brain some more in the future.
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Old 08-16-2014, 08:14 AM   #33
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Send me a PM anytime and we can share contact info.

Also- be sure to give MJmarkhams' thread a read as well. He is another brother of the 70 Overlander. He did a full shell-off. Speaking of which-where has that guy been?
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:34 AM   #34
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Does anyone know what this tank is for ? Its not connected to the black water tank was wondering if its for water or graywater?Click image for larger version

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Old 08-17-2014, 10:41 AM   #35
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it is sticking out of the belly pan? Could be an added gray tank. Its not in a great spot though. Should have been up in the pan between the frame.
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Old 08-17-2014, 10:45 AM   #36
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Yes its sticking out of the belly pan I have removed the back black water tank to replace the back section of the floor and the tank in question is not plumbed to the blackwater tank at all. I will just remove some more belly pans to see how its plumbed or were it goes.
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Old 08-17-2014, 12:33 PM   #37
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I think it was an added gray water tank butt not sure how you would use it assuming you would have to connect a sewer hose from black water to this tank on the side valve then hook additional sewer hose from campsite hook up to outer valve.
Any thoughts on this???
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Old 08-17-2014, 02:49 PM   #38
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Hi Deerfish....
We've had two Airstreams with a bit of floor rot. We pieced in new patches without a problem. I'm only a couple of miles from you, in Schererville. If you need to borrow any odd tools, let me know....I probably have them!
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Old 08-17-2014, 04:22 PM   #39
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Hello, so we bought the 1970 overlander and have the same issue in the back that you do. Were you able to keep the bathroom pieces intact to reuse or did you scrap it. Was it difficult to remove? Pulled the flooring and we only have a soft spot by the door caused by a window missing a hinge. I have two questions 1.) where can we find a hinge for the window by the front door it is missing. And two what are these plugs?Attachment 219245Attachment 219246Attachment 219247
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:44 PM   #40
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I got the floor out today what a job that was going to add some more steel stringer and out rigger supports this week and then in with the new marine plywood epoxy resin coated so it wont rot again. Click image for larger version

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