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Old 05-29-2008, 07:10 PM   #61
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Thanks Folks,

I first got out my circular saw and drew out my lines to cut out an area to get my sawsall in (like Kip suggested) but the rivets are so close to the front hold down plate I wasn't sure the blade had enough room to make its stroke. I then decided to try a procedure that I am not sure will work or not. I will let you know tomorrow. Since I am from the oilfield area I stole an idea from them and slant drilled. Since the front hold down plate is there to protect the outer skin I decided to slant drill a hole on each side of each rivet to sort of cut the plywood so to speak on each side. Still didn't budge! Then I discovered that the old Airstream prankster had located two elevator bolts below the c-channel and that did piss me off. About that time my lawn mower guy at my store showed up and I had to roll up my extension cords. I will get back on it tomorrow. Hopefully I can drill a hole (maybe 1-1/2") next to the c-channel so I can get my Dremel cut off wheel in there to cut the bolts off. Man, it is always something!
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Old 05-29-2008, 07:43 PM   #62
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Good luck with that Vernon. Sounds like some real tricky trouble. Keep us posted on how you resolve it.

If it's any consolation to you and Kip AS must have fired, and bled, that guy after 70-71 since my '75 had all the fasteners on top of the floor channel.
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:03 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by monocoque
Good luck with that Vernon. Sounds like some real tricky trouble. Keep us posted on how you resolve it.

If it's any consolation to you and Kip AS must have fired, and bled, that guy after 70-71 since my '75 had all the fasteners on top of the floor channel.
Wow, who knew Todd was so evil when he seems so nice?

-Marcus
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:15 PM   #64
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Kip must have got to him. He was long gone when they were putting my airstream together!
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Old 05-29-2008, 08:42 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vhord
Thanks Folks,

I first got out my circular saw and drew out my lines to cut out an area to get my sawsall in (like Kip suggested) but the rivets are so close to the front hold down plate I wasn't sure the blade had enough room to make its stroke. !
I measured the blade from the front steel vertical and back to the Saws All blade shoe and made my first side to side cut in the plywood so that the Saws All blade would miss the plate
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Old 05-30-2008, 06:18 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by Aerowood
I measured the blade from the front steel vertical and back to the Saws All blade shoe and made my first side to side cut in the plywood so that the Saws All blade would miss the plate
That's the reason that you get paid the big bucks.

I'll do that if this doesn't work.

Thanks.
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Old 05-30-2008, 07:04 AM   #67
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I was thinking Dremel also. I had to use mine to cut off a bunch of the elevator bolts. One thing I found with the Dremel working in tight spaces is that the cut off wheels shatter very easily.

Good luck.

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Old 05-30-2008, 11:01 AM   #68
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I finally got it out!

Why didn't you guys tell me I was saving the worst for last? In addition to the steel drive rivets in the front c-channel there ended up being five (5) additional elevator bolts underneath the front channel plus the two that I had already found under the curved side c-channels! Seven hidden elevator bolts total. I ended up using a wood chisel to gain access to them.

Then the floor still would not budge! I then found that last sheet metal screw that we had overlooked. There is always one somewhere. Anyway I got it out. I slide it a little aft with the help of a ratchet strap then sawed it down the middle for easier removal. Now I will clean it up and see if there are any more surprises in store for me.
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Old 05-30-2008, 11:06 AM   #69
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Great work, I can only imagine how hot it must be working out there today, as I sit in my air-conditioned office overlooking the Texas Hill Country...

Got any pictures?
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Old 05-30-2008, 11:08 AM   #70
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BTW - here is how I got the first two out. The other five were removed the same way except I cut the hole with a wood chisel.

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It did take me a half a day to get that one last sheet out. I still do not understand why they didn't run these bolts through the c-channel. That's what I am going to do.
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Old 05-30-2008, 11:45 AM   #71
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Originally Posted by vhord
...... I still do not understand why they didn't run these bolts through the c-channel. That's what I am going to do.
That is a good question. That's the way they are on my '73 (thru the channel).

Great work.

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Old 05-31-2008, 10:48 AM   #72
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Okay, what's the trick here?

Is there a trick to getting this bottom wrap under piece out? All the rivets are removed from the rub rail line. Does this piece extend all the way up to the rows of rivets on the hold down plate? I would like to remove this piece to treat that portion of the frame but if I have to remove all those rivets it may not happen.
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I know everyone has seen their share of bare frames but they look so good once you get them cleaned up. I still have to replace my steps (welding) before coating the rest of the frame.

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My one week to finish my subfloor is turning into 2-3 weeks hopefully.
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Old 05-31-2008, 02:40 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by vhord
......Does this piece extend all the way up to the rows of rivets on the hold down plate? ......
Yes, that's where it goes. Between the outer shell and the steel piece. Those bucked rivets directly above it go thru all 3 pieces of metal.

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Old 05-31-2008, 03:20 PM   #74
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this looks like it would be just the thing for dealing w/ those "blind elevator bolts".
https://www.4multimaster.com/vcc/fei...master/190651/

very spendy, though.
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Old 05-31-2008, 08:10 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vhord
Is there a trick to getting this bottom wrap under piece out? All the rivets are removed from the rub rail line. Does this piece extend all the way up to the rows of rivets on the hold down plate? I would like to remove this piece to treat that portion of the frame but if I have to remove all those rivets it may not happen.
Vernon, don't worry those rivets drill out really fast: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...vet-41526.html!

Quote:
I know everyone has seen their share of bare frames but they look so good once you get them cleaned up. I still have to replace my steps (welding) before coating the rest of the frame.
Looks absolutely great. Thanks for the photos! I know how much work you've put into getting there!
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Old 06-07-2008, 01:35 PM   #76
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Vernon, don't worry those rivets drill out really fast: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...t-41526.html!!
I bought one of those rivet remover tools. Works great. I probably will work on that front piece after I get the subfloor re-installed. Right now that front "hold down plate" is actually a "hold up'r".

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Looks absolutely great. Thanks for the photos! I know how much work you've put into getting there!
Thanks for the kind words.

Speaking of subfloors I got the last three of mine cut out and edge treated. The two center pieces will be cut in half as soon as I decide where I want to make the splices. I am hoping to install the front curved piece without cutting it just like I did on the other end. It is only about 3 ft. wide so it should be easier. As soon as I can get my front steps replaced I can finish that portion of my rebuild.
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Old 06-07-2008, 02:23 PM   #77
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Vernon, what did you treat the edges with?
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Old 06-07-2008, 02:45 PM   #78
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Minwax® High Performance Wood Hardener
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Old 06-07-2008, 07:51 PM   #79
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Man you are really knocking it out. That project is coming along nicely.

SIU Bound

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Old 06-13-2008, 03:38 PM   #80
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Hey Vernon, would these work for you? Not sure what your steps are supposed to look like, but I just saw this on the Forum Classifieds:

Airstream Trailer & Motorhome Classifieds - steps for sale need work - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds

Hope all is well, your work is looking great!

-Marcus
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