Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-25-2013, 09:06 PM   #1
1 Rivet Member
 
BuffaloJoe's Avatar
 
1968 30' Sovereign
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
How many volts in trickle charge line - 1968?

Hi. My Sovereign 30 is unhitched from my truck. When I use my multimeter to read the 12V trickle charge line in the 7-way plug, I get about 2V. My battery has a good charge in it so shouldn't I read 12V? I have the negative of my meter on the ground connection in the plug and when I go all around the circle, the only reading I get is the one for the trickle at about 2V. When I'm hitched up, all of my lights and the brakes work properly. Any ideas?
__________________

BuffaloJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 09:23 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
aquinob's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
In order to charge the battery, the voltage applied needs to be higher then the voltage of the battery itself. Cant really say why you are reading 2v, but if its being charged, then somewhere along the line the charging voltage is higher than what the battery is outputting. Try checking the voltage with the battery out of the circuit and see if you have a voltage higher than the battery voltage.
__________________

__________________
Bob

Ongoing adventures at:
https://1973overlander.blogspot.com/
aquinob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2013, 10:45 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
robert claus's Avatar

 
2000 19' Bambi
mt. Prospect , Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 788
Images: 19
If you are checking the pins, or blades, in the socket on the TV, and you are only getting 2v on the one that is supposed to be "hot", then something is wrong. It should be 12.8 or higher. Check for a fuse in that circuit, and remove and clean the fuse and holder. See if you can trace the wire to the power source connection and clean that.
Everything else may work when connected - lights, brakes, etc because they are not powered by that circuit. You just aren't getting a recharge of the trailer batteries when moving, which would be masked by plugging in at a campground.
robert claus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 05:56 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Silver Goose's Avatar
 
2008 27' Classic FB
Burkburnett , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 984
The low voltage reading at the 7-way plug is likely pointing to a loose or corroded connection. Most wiring diagrams show a fuse or 12v breaker between the charge line and the battery. The 12v to the tongue jack and the breakaway switch are typically common to the charge line at some point. Modifications by a PO or age of the 7-way plug are likely unknowns so a good way to tackle this is to disconnect from the TV and shore power so that the only source of 12v is the battery. Meter your battery to verify it does have about 12.8 v or thereabouts to confirm the battery and the meter. Then meter from ground to 1 side and then the other of the fuse/breaker, if voltage is still good continue along the line metering any splice or junction en route to the 7-way. Whatever is between the 12v and the 2v is the problem. Also, try metering from the umbilical plug charge line to the plug's ground line in addition to another ground point to confirm that the ground you were using is really a good ground point.
__________________
AIR 47751
Silver Goose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 07:08 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,837
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
Are you checking the TV receptacle or the trailer plug?
If it is the TV receptacle. Is the TV running or have the key on?
The house (trailer) battery has nothing to do with the exterior lights on the trailer. However it does provide power to the break away switch.
If you are only reading 2 volts on the charge line at the trailer plug. I would look for a bad connection; battery terminals, ground/common connection, fuse etc.
Do the interior 12 volt lights work without being plugged in to Shore Power?
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 10:09 AM   #6
1 Rivet Member
 
BuffaloJoe's Avatar
 
1968 30' Sovereign
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
Good morning, everyone and thank you all for your replies. Yeah, I know that the exterior lights and interior lights are separate. I wanted to show that my ground is working. And, my interior lights work just fine when I'm on battery only. Silver Goose, thanks for your metering suggestions and I'll let you know.

One question, is the low voltage panel behind the Central Control Panel? Where is it?
BuffaloJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 03:50 PM   #7
1 Rivet Member
 
BuffaloJoe's Avatar
 
1968 30' Sovereign
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
More information - I opened my Central Control Panel and found the low voltage panel. According to my manual, I'm supposed to have a 40A fuse connecting the trailer battery to Circuit 1 and a spare 40A fuse. In the picture I attached, it looks like a PO wired the spare fuse to act as a second circuit, so that might explain why I'm not reading 12V in the charge line in my 7-way plug. Also, I found that the leads to the trailer battery and the trickle line were in contact. Separating them, I now get 2.5V! Clearly there is some power getting 'lost' somewhere.

Finally, I posted a picture of what I think is the "Car Low Voltage Cutout". Does anyone know for sure? Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	AS 68 Svrn 30 Low Voltage Panel.JPG
Views:	107
Size:	443.2 KB
ID:	186581   Click image for larger version

Name:	AS 68 Svrn 30 LV Schematic.JPG
Views:	185
Size:	395.4 KB
ID:	186582  

Click image for larger version

Name:	AS 68 Svrn 30 Unknown.JPG
Views:	101
Size:	400.7 KB
ID:	186583  
BuffaloJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 05:12 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
Silver Goose's Avatar
 
2008 27' Classic FB
Burkburnett , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 984
You've got a wiring diagram! Count your lucky stars!!! Your photos will help a lot also. Someone else may be more familiar with your exact setup, but here's what I see... You are correct, someone has made some changes.

The (blue) wire that says to car battery should be the charge line in your umbilical. It originally went through that circuit board with the relay and an ammeter to the 40a fuse, then on to the house battery. I believe the relay circuit was to prevent the trailer from draining the car battery when the engine was shut off. Most modern. Cars with a tow package have this built into the car, so that disconnected board shouldn't be an issue.

The blue wire connected to the fuse may be the original wire going to the house battery.

What do you read from ground to each side of each fuse?
__________________
AIR 47751
Silver Goose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 05:12 PM   #9
3 Rivet Member
 
kokopat's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Hendersonville, NC , North Carolina
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 119
Images: 1
Yep, that's the car low voltage cutout. Looks like the circuit 4 breaker may of went bad and they piggy backed another one with the red and yellow wires using the original breaker as a landing point for the wires.
Pat
kokopat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 05:44 PM   #10
Rivet Master
 
Silver Goose's Avatar
 
2008 27' Classic FB
Burkburnett , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 984
Studying this further, I see the ammeter has turned to gas and disappeared... That's not a problem either. I do agree completely with kokopat, it appears the breaker with the red and yellow jumpers in parallel with the original was an attempt to bypass a presumably bad breaker. I won't even speculate why someone didn't take a few minutes to replace the bad with the new.

The black wire coming to the breaker is likely the charge wire from the umbilical. What do you read from ground to each side of the breaker with the red and yellow jumpers?

Again, disconnect the umbilical and shore power when taking the readings in case there are other issues, they hopefully won't cloud the results.

The breaker shouldn't have any effect on the charge line, but let's rule it out. If the is wired as I suspect, the charge from the umbilical is connected to the common 12v jumper that bridges the original 4 breakers. The wire coming off this jumper to the fuse to the blue wire should be the path to the + post on the house battery.
__________________
AIR 47751
Silver Goose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 07:04 PM   #11
1 Rivet Member
 
BuffaloJoe's Avatar
 
1968 30' Sovereign
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
I'm totally disconnected from my truck and shore power. When I read from ground to each side of the fuses and each side of each breaker I get 12.5V. The ammeter actually works so that's good.

I can't totally argue having a 40A fuse on the charge line from the umbilical but does it do anything for me? My truck has Ford factory trailer wiring, so I'll assume I have a voltage cutoff in there. If I leave the blue charge wire connected where it is and take the black wire coming from the fuse for the charge wire and connect it to either point in the new picture, would that accomplish what I'm after?

I feel pretty lucky having the original owner's manual. It's been a lifesaver.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	AS 68 Svrn 30 Low Voltage Panel_Option.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	444.4 KB
ID:	186588  
BuffaloJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 07:32 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
Silver Goose's Avatar
 
2008 27' Classic FB
Burkburnett , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 984
If your Ford is like mine, there is a fuse box in the engine compartment. In it will be a fuse for the 12v charge line and a relay that drops the charge line to the 7-pin socket when the ignition is switched off. The purpose for the fuse us to protect the truck wiring in the event of a short in the charge line. The purpose for the relay is to prevent the loads in the trailer from draining your engine starter battery.

The 40a fuse in the trailer likewise protects the trailer wiring to the umbilical in the even of a short between it and the truck harness. You want a fuse in both places.
__________________
AIR 47751
Silver Goose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2013, 07:51 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
Silver Goose's Avatar
 
2008 27' Classic FB
Burkburnett , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 984
Since you have 12v on both sides of the fuses and the circuit breaker, this tells me the path from the + post of the battery to the 12v common feeding the breakers is good. Your problem is between the connection to the 12v common and the plug on the umbilical. At this point I would remove the housing from the 7-way plug on the umbilical and inspect the connection of the wires to the pins, particularly the one you identified as the charge line. Take a reading from ground to the wire, then the pin. If you need to clean and tighten the connection, disconnect the battery first in case your screwdriver slips or gets between the 12v line and ground.

If you find 2v at the wire, you will need to search for the other end of the umbilical to inspect the junctions. It may be behind an access plate somewhere between where the umbilical enters the trailer or a-frame and the 12v breakers. I wouldn't be surprised if you found wires twisted together and secured with only plastic tape. I'm suspecting you may find the problem in the backside of the 7-way plug.

Let us know what you discover.
__________________
AIR 47751
Silver Goose is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2013, 09:58 AM   #14
1 Rivet Member
 
BuffaloJoe's Avatar
 
1968 30' Sovereign
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 17
Thank you for the great information. I'll check the plug, trace back, and get back to you.
__________________

BuffaloJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
1968, 1968 sovereign


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
1968 GT tires that will fit... RECOMMENDED ALUMINUMINUM Tires 5 10-31-2011 11:30 AM
Isolator? charge line ? indy Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 6 05-23-2011 08:20 PM
Isolator? charge line ? indy Tow Vehicles 2 05-23-2011 08:27 AM
Charge line breaker stuck open AirHome Batteries, Univolts, Converters & Inverters 3 04-13-2011 10:18 AM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:40 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.