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Old 08-18-2017, 08:41 AM   #1
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Bathroom tear out

I'm going to have to repair the rear floor of my 69 Sovereign. Can anyone save me some frustration and tell me the best way to attack this? I'm assuming the plastic surround is brittle. Can I start by taking out the closets and work backwards?
I'm guessing the black tank is shot as well as some frame rot. I guess I don't care if I keep it original but it it all still in good shape. Just needs to be painted. Should I install a gray water tank too? The 69's didn't have one.
Thanks for any help possible.

Jbknowso
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Old 08-18-2017, 06:31 PM   #2
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Hello from Colorado: You're starting on a big project, good for you. I removed the bath from my 66 Trade Wind, but it had a lot of fiberglass parts. Your 69 is the first year of the new body style and has the new bathroom design. I believe you will find more thermo-formed plastic parts than was in the 66.

Okay, number one is to work carefully. There is no need to damage these rather rare plastic parts. Yes, you can restore them if you want. Next, you need to study how the bathroom was assembled at the factory. What was the last part put in. Maybe it was the sink, the toilet comes out pretty easily in some cases, but people have problems it it is a threaded floor flange. How about taking the vanity and closet doors off. Make sure you know where each of the plumbing lines go, hot and cold; shower, sink, and toilet. Also study the drain lines; shower, sink and toilet. Take the faucet valves off the plastic. Expect rusted tight mounting hardware. Learn new combinations of cuss words.

It is just a matter of starting from the easy stuff first. Look how it was made, and then figure out the next thing to come out.

Remember, it takes about 5 times longer to reassemble everything you take out. You are starting a big project that will take time. Chances are you won't be traveling in it by next weekend.

David
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Old 08-18-2017, 09:35 PM   #3
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Jbknowso,

I recently did a full gut of my 69 sovereign and the bathroom was the trickiest part. The lower plastic portion has rivets upon rivets. The moulding that ties the multiple pieces in place is two piece and once you disconnect the face, you'll find even more rivets. Just be certain to drill out all of them before pulling pieces apart. Take the toilet out and if you have a sawzall, you might be able to access the tub drain line through the side rear hatch on the tub side, where the inverter is located. Although it is possible to do this without doing much disassembly to the rest of the unit, the closet walls closest to the rear, shower wall and the bathroom storage, hinder most access to the bathroom components. The upper portion is a fiberglass insert and you can remove the entire lower half without messing with it. Main thing is to take it slow, have plenty of 1/8" metal drill bits handy and take pictures if you are just doing the bathroom. I also had severe frame rot and have since been fabricating the last 6' of the frame. If you have any specific questions let us know.
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:15 AM   #4
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When the Interior was installed they started at the rear and moved forward.

In my rebuild I removed the entire interior , it makes working inside much easier .

To replace the last 4' of the floor the entire bathroom needs to be removed and the next section in front of it to give you working room.

The guys that installed my interior at the factory did a great job of hiding screws and rivets in layers.

While you have the floor out it makes removing the the black tank from the top easy.

When you go to install the floor its easier to split it under the Tub . Add an angle iron front to rear to support the floor split , weld that in.

Here's what you will find as you tear into this project ...
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:43 AM   #5
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The gas line to the water heater will have to come out as will the water heater if its anything like mine. You will also have to lower the belly pan at the rear and roll it under the axel . This works best if the trailer is raised a foot or more.

One you have the subfloor ( Plywood) in it would be time to do an overlay of Luwain and level the joints and instal the floor covering.

Another thing you'll find is the floor is exposed at the rear to water from the compartment top , it just slides under the wood and there is no weather seal to keep water out.

I made an angle flashing that is sealed to the body under the trim molding and sealed to the compartment top. It was easier to make it in two pieces and over lap in the middle.
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Old 08-19-2017, 12:55 AM   #6
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BTW my project took 2 years to get it camp-able.
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Old 08-19-2017, 04:50 AM   #7
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Gee Glen, when you go after a Trade Wind, you go after it! Your good posts will get the original poster, JBknowso, in the "know so" he won't be surprised about how much hard work and time is required to fix the rear end of an old Airstream. I'm impressed with the good work you did on your vintage Trade Wind.

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Old 08-20-2017, 03:13 PM   #8
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Dave

Thanks for the heads up Dave.
Sounds like I will need to buy some 1/8 inch bit stock (: I found a real wet sub floor under the sink and also behind the frig.
I'm going to take a good look at the seals around the vents up top and around the AC unit My guess is, water is getting in between the 2 skins and coming around both sides causing rot. Also, I'm going to take out all the windows and reseal / put in new gaskets. This has to happen 1st before I tackle the bath.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Hello from Colorado: You're starting on a big project, good for you. I removed the bath from my 66 Trade Wind, but it had a lot of fiberglass parts. Your 69 is the first year of the new body style and has the new bathroom design. I believe you will find more thermo-formed plastic parts than was in the 66.

Okay, number one is to work carefully. There is no need to damage these rather rare plastic parts. Yes, you can restore them if you want. Next, you need to study how the bathroom was assembled at the factory. What was the last part put in. Maybe it was the sink, the toilet comes out pretty easily in some cases, but people have problems it it is a threaded floor flange. How about taking the vanity and closet doors off. Make sure you know where each of the plumbing lines go, hot and cold; shower, sink, and toilet. Also study the drain lines; shower, sink and toilet. Take the faucet valves off the plastic. Expect rusted tight mounting hardware. Learn new combinations of cuss words.

It is just a matter of starting from the easy stuff first. Look how it was made, and then figure out the next thing to come out.

Remember, it takes about 5 times longer to reassemble everything you take out. You are starting a big project that will take time. Chances are you won't be traveling in it by next weekend.

David
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Old 08-20-2017, 03:31 PM   #9
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ASHeron

Thanks for your reply. I think rivets are going to be the new norm lol.
As I told Dave, I found a couple of other bad spots in the floor in this old war bird so the smart play will be to just take everything out and put a whole new floor. Before I get going on that, I have to chase the cause starting at the vents up top and the AC seals. I will most likely order a new skylight and new maxxair vents. Than I will reseal windows and gaskets in all the windows.
I will keep you posted on the progress. Steady as she goes (:
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Old 08-20-2017, 03:45 PM   #10
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Glen,
You are a champ in every ones eye's. Thanks for all the pics!
I can see that taking 2 years. But go big or stay home right? You obviously had your AS under cover to be able to pull the banana skirt and expose all that while you work. Mine sits out side so I have to keep that in mind as I go.
Your pictures will sure come in handy as I start my journey. I hope if I have questions, I can ask for some guidance.
P.S. Your work is awesome!
Thanks Glen
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Old 08-20-2017, 04:30 PM   #11
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Thanks JB

You might as well buy a rivet removal tool kit from http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com and a pneumatic rivet gun from http://www.Eastwood.com or Amazon.com

Vintage Trailer Supply has the colored rivets for the interior along with Olympic rivets.

If you need a furnace I have a brand new Suburban NT-30 still in the box I got from V.T.S.

BTW I found that the frames for the compartment doors and windows have drain holes that drain into the walls and can wet the floor. I sealed them with Valcum.

Here's what I started with ...
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Old 08-21-2017, 08:03 AM   #12
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Glen

That bathroom looks familiar. When I pull out the whole window and reseal and rivet back in place, do I use buck rivets? Also, I am going to put new vent fans in and a sky dome. Do they all take buck rivets too?
JB
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Old 08-21-2017, 07:13 PM   #13
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The window frame is buck riveted to the exterior skins. I'd have to have a compelling reason to drill out a window frame. I resealed my window frames on my 66 Trade Wind with a very small bead of Acry-R seam sealer. It seemed to do the trick. The opening window frame to rubber seal is a straight forward replacement.

David
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Old 08-23-2017, 12:23 PM   #14
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JB

I just stared my build thread after 5 years ... about time wouldn't you think .

As your just starting your project take a look at my build thread it will help answer a lot of your questions .

I'll be adding to it as I get time and I should be way ahead of your progress.
After all mine has been on the road Glamping since the spring of 2015
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Old 08-23-2017, 12:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
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JB

I just stared my build thread after 5 years ... about time wouldn't you think .

As your just starting your project take a look at my build thread it will help answer a lot of your questions .

I'll be adding to it as I get time and I should be way ahead of your progress.
After all mine has been on the road Glamping since the spring of 2015


Hi Glen. What's the hury
I'm so thankful for your postings. I have a dent on the curbside rear ( buy the vent pipe) that needs to be hammered out so all the surround has to be pulled it in the bath . I'll paint it.
I've tore out the kitchen. Lot of rot to the right side of the furnace. I'll pull the closets but the bath to give me room to access the bathroom. It should be interesting but with all your pictures that will be very helpful. How much do you want for your furnace that you mentioned. Why are you selling it,

Jbknowso
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Old 08-23-2017, 01:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbknowso View Post
Glen

That bathroom looks familiar. When I pull out the whole window and reseal and rivet back in place, do I use buck rivets? Also, I am going to put new vent fans in and a sky dome. Do they all take buck rivets too?
JB
I'm not sure why you need to take the window out? Seal the outside and reseal the inside if you need too, but let sleeping dogs lie if you ask me and don't mess with the rivets that are aready there.

As for new vents and a sky dome (sky light?). These are attached by stainless steel screws through a flashing that has butyl tape underneath. DON'T use rivets as you will squeeze out too much butyl tape compound and damage the flashing.

No3 and this is a big one......I strongly suggest you replace your subfloor with Coosa board. Coosa board is a marine product that will not rot, mildew, fall apart, grow mold and is 40- 45% lighter than plywood. It is just as strong or even stronger than plywood and easier to work with. I have suggest it to a number of Airstreamers, and those that have used it found it to be far superior to plywood., especially in wet areas!

http://www.coosacomposites.com

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...me-106269.html

read post #23 below. I was the one that told him about Coosa.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...-119402-2.html

Take pictures of everything, write down all colours of wires and connections and above all, take your time.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 08-23-2017, 03:12 PM   #17
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I'm not sure why you need to take the window out? Seal the outside and reseal the inside if you need too, but let sleeping dogs lie if you ask me and don't mess with the rivets that are aready there.

As for new vents and a sky dome (sky light?). These are attached by stainless steel screws through a flashing that has butyl tape underneath. DON'T use rivets as you will squeeze out too much butyl tape compound and damage the flashing.

No3 and this is a big one......I strongly suggest you replace your subfloor with Coosa board. Coosa board is a marine product that will not rot, mildew, fall apart, grow mold and is 40- 45% lighter than plywood. It is just as strong or even stronger than plywood and easier to work with. I have suggest it to a number of Airstreamers, and those that have used it found it to be far superior to plywood., especially in wet areas!

http://www.coosacomposites.com

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...me-106269.html

read post #23 below. I was the one that told him about Coosa.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...-119402-2.html

Take pictures of everything, write down all colours of wires and connections and above all, take your time.

Cheers
Tony


Good stuff Tony. I'll do as you say. I'm not taking windows out. Just going to put new gaskets in. I'll need a big bucket for my cus words. lol
That wood is amazing.
Jbknowso
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Old 08-23-2017, 03:19 PM   #18
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I took all of my windows off cleaned all the deteriorated foam gasket off and resealed with a faying surface seal , not really that big of a deal, just a few rivets per window. It really stopped a lot of leaks.
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Old 08-24-2017, 08:33 PM   #19
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JBknowso

You've got a Private Message ....
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