mod needed for the 4 balancing/support legs

[waninae39]

The screw for raising and lowering the support legs is about 2 feet in from the trailer sides.

the newer models have the screws coming out flush with the trailer edge

is the a mod or replacement such that my 2017 as22Fb can have a more convenient adjustments?

ie its a pain to bend over and find them and poke the long rod with a unique end , when just seeing them on the edge would be far easier
as well the newer ones have a standard hex nut, thus very easy to use a battery operated drill

[A W Warn]

I have the short ones on my 25' too. They are a pain... to use.
I wish there was an easy way to modify them! I've looked at this a few times. But in the end, I came to the conclusion they would need to be changed.

Those on my trailer are light duty and shorter height extension. The stabilizers with the extended bolt are heavier duty and longer height extension. Both are Bal brand.

This what my trailer came with>
http://norcoind.com/bal/products/con...s/c-jack.shtml

This is what I would like to have, but I'm to tight to spend the $>
http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...roducts_id=369

[waninae39]

4 x $100 = $400 that is not a cheap replacement

is there another place to order them as they are out of stock

none listed on amazon

[cwf]

I suggest.. Pull off the operating shaft, take to machine / welding shop (unless you have stuff at home...

Cut about 1/2 way on the smooth part of the shaft. Get a pipe which will go over the shaft long enough for your extension plus an inch or two on each end (extend 12 inches, plus 4 inches = 16") and weld.

Reinstall. enjoy.

[waninae39]

A better plan is to just add and extension rod. it mya/may not need support at the curb/road end

all i need to know is the current rod diameter and thread pitch/inch

then add two double female adapter ; one for the lift side, the other on the end bolt
add thread lock on, and maybe an extra nut to ensure nothing loosens

that whole soln for all four corners for far less than $100

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by waninae39

A better plan is to just add and extension rod. it mya/may not need support at the curb/road end

all i need to know is the current rod diameter and thread pitch/inch

then add two double female adapter ; one for the lift side, the other on the end bolt
add thread lock on, and maybe an extra nut to ensure nothing loosens

that whole soln for all four corners for far less than $100

I went through that same thought process, but never found any coupling with compatible thread. Also, I did not want to remove the jacks from the trailer.

The best modification I could come up with was similar to Channing's suggestion. I thought about using a short steel pipe nipple the same diameter as the existing bolt, as a coupling to connect/weld a bolt as the extension. A 10" extension is all that is needed on my Safari. Material could be had for about $50. (4 hex head bolts & 4 pipe nipples) Welding should take less than .5 hours.
My concern is, what would this look like and would I be happy with the result?

[overlander63]

If it's the T-slot type, simply buy a $17 hand crank, cut it off at the part that starts to bend to the handle, and insert the T-slot piece in a cordless drill, and use that to run the stabilizers up and down. Problem solved--cheaply.

[twbucksr]

I modified the hand crank like overlander63 mentioned in their post when I had my 2015 22FB. We added some reflectively tape to the end of the jack bolt which will made it easier to see at night and used a garden knee pad to keep your pants clean.

[Toasterlife]

I find that a cheap step stool to sit on does the trick, rather than bending down, much more comfortable. I find a tyre iron easier to crank with. I see a lot of people using cordless drills, but we don't feel the need. Also please do not use cordless drills after hours or early in the morning and disturb the whole sleeping campsite...

[Sportcenter]

I fabricated my extensions from 12-14" lengths of 1/2" thin wall conduit. Drilled 3/8" hole about 2" from one end of the piece, then made two cuts from the end to meet the hole, thus forming a slot to fit over the stabilizer shaft. Secured this end with a small hose clamp so the extension does not slip off. Place a short 5/8" bolt in the outer end and drilled through the conduit and bolt, then secured with a tension pin. Use a 15/16" socket to raise and lower stabilizer.
The stabilizer near the entry steps on the Sport 16 cannot accept this mod.

[Msherw]

Originally Posted by twbucksr

I modified the hand crank like overlander63 mentioned in their post when I had my 2015 22FB. We added some reflectively tape to the end of the jack bolt which will made it easier to see at night and used a garden knee pad to keep your pants clean.

I use a similar process:

bought this item: https://www.walmart.com/ip/BAL-21100...Jacks/50313957

Placed it in my cordless drill and it extends to beyond the AS base edge.

Got some stick on reflective markers for the black base board so I know where to bend down.

Got the kneeboard to bend down with.

It isn't a perfect solution but it makes the 5 minute jack lowering a lot less of a hassle.

[waninae39]

the rod on my as 22fb is 5/8 with 11 TPI UNC

i just need to extend the rod by 11" on each corner

i will pick up qty 8 couplers and qty 2 5/8" x 36" rod on the weekend
with loktite and extra nuts, the rod will be secure and wont unscrew

[waninae39]

checked again

the lift has an ACME 8 TPI thread
looks like a 5/8' rod

i have to find where to get an acme coupler

[waninae39]

i found the rod and the coupling nut on ebay

it will take 2 weeks to arrive

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by waninae39

i found the rod and the coupling nut on ebay

it will take 2 weeks to arrive

Those coupling nuts are hard to find.
If this works out, I'll do the same.
Keep us posted.
Thanks!

[waninae39]

these are the three items you need

plus add red thread lock

[awiegel]

Some of us have had pretty good luck just welding a 10 inch bolt with a 3/4 head right on to the end of the threaded rod on the screw jack. Worked well for me.

I also found that adding some aluminum shims above the stabilizer unit, so it was supported in mid operation, made a big difference. The track was then supported by the trailer frame instead of bridging across a space of 10 inches or so,

The stabilizer on the Bambis are actually sold for lighter tent trailers and don't work well without modification. If you are not prepared to make mods, I suggest buying stands made for a heavier trailer, like the BAL 400093

Just added the stabilizing bar and looking forward to see if that stops the forward-back movement.

-Andrew

[waninae39]

i posted my pics here in post #37

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f295...-155029-3.html