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ohmman · 07-16-2020, 03:17 PM

I installed an Acuva Silver NX water filter/UV sanitizer under the sink. Posted these images in another thread, but it seems pertinent here as well.

ohmman · 07-16-2020, 03:19 PM

I also installed a Dura Faucet quick connect for the outdoor shower. This was the easiest upgrade, because it's entirely accessible from the closet floor. I should have had my 10 year old do it.

ohmman · 07-17-2020, 04:25 PM

I got tired of the Dometic door sagging and becoming difficult to open. Blue Loctite and an angled screwdriver to the rescue!

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PB_NB · 07-17-2020, 08:31 PM

So I have decided to install my 250ah lithium battery under the bed in the middle. It is close enough to the junctions. I will delete the outside battery at the same time.

Then I will change the Zamp tongue plug to GoPower connector while I am there. There is a 2" hole in the floor so running wires is pretty easy. I will fill the hole once I get the new wires installed.

I am going to pull the stock converter and put an adjustable output unit in as well.

Then to wrap this up, a Victron 712 to monitor the battery.

Once this is tested on a few trips, we will decide on more panels and MPPT controller.

Then I have to beef up the bed frame as it is pretty crappy.

ohmman · 07-17-2020, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PB_NB

So I have decided to install my 250ah lithium battery under the bed in the middle. It is close enough to the junctions. I will delete the outside battery at the same time.

Then I will change the Zamp tongue plug to GoPower connector while I am there. There is a 2" hole in the floor so running wires is pretty easy. I will fill the hole once I get the new wires installed.

I am going to pull the stock converter and put an adjustable output unit in as well.

Then to wrap this up, a Victron 712 to monitor the battery.

Once this is tested on a few trips, we will decide on more panels and MPPT controller.

Then I have to beef up the bed frame as it is pretty crappy.

My 240Ah lithium is under the "foot" of the bed, behind the water heater. It fits there, my inverter fits right on the other side of the panel, and the corner section is good for the junction board. Is that where you plan to put yours? The good part of that is that you don't lose any accessible space directly under the bed.

And yes, the bed frame can use help.

PB_NB · 07-26-2020, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohmman

My 240Ah lithium is under the "foot" of the bed, behind the water heater. It fits there, my inverter fits right on the other side of the panel, and the corner section is good for the junction board. Is that where you plan to put yours? The good part of that is that you don't lose any accessible space directly under the bed.

And yes, the bed frame can use help.

I had a look at that space beside the water heater but this battery is so long at 20.5" that is would fit in either direction. I stuck it right in the middle of the floor as far forward as I could and built some framing around to secure the battery and protect it from objects in the compartment. It turns out that I can still put 3 of the 4 rubbermaid containers in space.

I will use the space beside the water heater for a future upgrade.

Then attached some wood to the under side of the plywood where is floats at the ends. Pretty easy and much firmer now.

ohmman · 08-21-2020, 03:20 PM

I'm going to test the Jack-It bike rack. We've been carrying the bikes in the camper on moving blankets, bungeed to the table post. They don't move and it's a great solution to keep their weight directly over the axle. But it doesn't work well on quick stops to charge the car, or simple overnights where we still have to remove them, lock them to the A frame, etc. This is an attempted workaround.

I have some efficiency/range concerns with the aerodynamic hit, but I like that I can remove the entire upper part with a single bolt, making it mostly temporary for when we're in need of the kids' bikes.

PB_NB · 08-21-2020, 03:30 PM

ohmman, with the rack and the bikes, what sort of impact do you think is occurring with tongue weight?

Do you have a link to the rack kit that you got?

ohmman · 08-21-2020, 03:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PB_NB

ohmman, with the rack and the bikes, what sort of impact do you think is occurring with tongue weight?

Do you have a link to the rack kit that you got?

I weighed my tongue with the bikes and the rack, but with an unpacked camper. I have a heavy folding solar suitcase under the bed, and the normal pots and pans and dishes in the camper, but no clothing or other items. My tongue weight was 410. I feel like I'll be able to keep it reasonable.

This is the rack I purchased. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-and-Camp.../LC429756.html

My main concerns with this rack, outside of the hit to my EV range, were the possibility of the inner bike touching the shell, the ability to access my propane tank, and the ability to open the front awning window, which I love to do. The inner bike's handlebar is close, but the straps they give you really cinch things up tightly and I cannot see it moving. The propane tank is accessible for turning propane on and off, though a little tight. The front awning window opens to the first setting but no further with the rack fully in place. When the arms are easily removed (they're secured simply by pins), the awning will open to the second setting. In order to open it fully, you have to remove the bolt that takes the entire top off. That also gives access to remove the propane tanks.

I am storing it that way - with the top removed. It basically just consists of the cover for the tongue jack and nothing else, and it allows me to keep the foam and rubber on the rack in the shed and out of the sun.

dznf0g · 08-21-2020, 03:50 PM

I would strongly recommend loosening and rotating the inner bike bar. I learned the hard way with a different brand rack, but it will move and flex more than you think. Too late after experimenting.
Takes all of one minute.

ohmman · 08-21-2020, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

I would strongly recommend loosening and rotating the inner bike bar. I learned the hard way with a different brand rack, but it will move and flex more than you think. Too late after experimenting.
Takes all of one minute.

Thanks for this warning! Can you clarify what you mean about rotating the inner bike bar? Mine share bars (front/back bikes). The only thing I can imagine rotating would be the bar that sets them above the propane tank but that would contact my TV and also cantilever the weight forward. I must be missing something...

PB_NB · 08-21-2020, 04:45 PM

I would hazard a guess that Rich is referring to the handle bars on the inner bike.

Other question is about tongue weight. I am seeing mine at ~500 lbs and really have nothing heavy in the trailer other then about 100 lbs of stuff scattered throughout the storage areas. If think I would see ~600 lbs on mine if I put a rack and 2 bikes on the tongue not to mention those nice segment protectors that I have been debating to add about 75 lbs more.

Were you able to move some items to the rear of the trailer to lighten up the front?

I use 2 different hitch scales from Weigh Safe which give me tongue weight numbers.

dznf0g · 08-21-2020, 04:55 PM

Yes, rotate the handlebar on the inner bike at the stem, so it is parallel to the bike frame.

ohmman · 08-22-2020, 02:19 PM

Ah, right. The handlebars, of course. Thanks, guys.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PB_NB

Were you able to move some items to the rear of the trailer to lighten up the front?

I use 2 different hitch scales from Weigh Safe which give me tongue weight numbers.

I didn't move anything. I don't keep my heavy tools in the outside compartment, though, as it's fore of the axle by quite a bit. My bottle jack, tool kit, etc. are all under the dinette at the wheel well. Also, I had a bumper added, which obviously puts some weight far behind the axle, and my chocks and electrical wires are in the bumper storage. So that might be the difference.

I use a Sherline LM2000 tongue scale.

PB_NB · 08-22-2020, 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ohmman

My 240Ah lithium is under the "foot" of the bed, behind the water heater. It fits there, my inverter fits right on the other side of the panel, and the corner section is good for the junction board. Is that where you plan to put yours? The good part of that is that you don't lose any accessible space directly under the bed.

And yes, the bed frame can use help.

I was able to install my inverter (GP 1500W) on the wooden bed frame looking at the space in-front of the water heater. It is out of the way from the storage area but I can still reach the controls through the door under the bed if I need to.

My GP inverter remote and Victron 712 are all near the battery store switch.

My transfer switch (GP 30 amp) is mounted under the storage closet removable floor.

I rewired my charger (GP 55 amp) to run off the shore input and then wired the 120AC panel input to the transfer switch output. Now I have all my my 120AC outlets active with my inverter. I don't intend on running my AirCon from the inverter.

I got a good deal on the Go Power stuff. Everything is tucked away and all you can see is the remote and BMS but you have to look for them.

ohmman · 08-24-2020, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PB_NB

I was able to install my inverter (GP 1500W) on the wooden bed frame looking at the space in-front of the water heater. It is out of the way from the storage area but I can still reach the controls through the door under the bed if I need to.

My GP inverter remote and Victron 712 are all near the battery store switch.

My transfer switch (GP 30 amp) is mounted under the storage closet removable floor.

I rewired my charger (GP 55 amp) to run off the shore input and then wired the 120AC panel input to the transfer switch output. Now I have all my my 120AC outlets active with my inverter. I don't intend on running my AirCon from the inverter.

I got a good deal on the Go Power stuff. Everything is tucked away and all you can see is the remote and BMS but you have to look for them.

Install sounds great, Peter. I probably should have done what you did with the transfer switch. Instead I just ran a couple of cords off of the inverter - one at the kitchen and one at at the bathroom. My control switch for the inverter is mounted on the bathroom wall with all of the other controls.

I purchased a CPU fan and plan to add it to my refrigerator compartment to aid in cooling. I haven't decided entirely how/where I'm going to mount it, but I'll experiment a bit soon.

I've also got two more 50W solar panels coming on Thursday for my roof. That'll bring me to a 400W total plus 160+200W of portable solar options depending on where we're headed/how long we'll be off grid.

JeffofCT · 09-12-2020, 04:37 PM

I just removed the pedestal and installed the Langun mount for the dinette table this afternoon. I added some 3/4" plywood backer mounted to a 3/4" base that is also screwed to the floor within the cabinet. I also moved the 110v outlet about 6" to the left. From what I see so far, it will be a significant improvement. I'd post pics but it looks pretty much the same as everyone else who did the same upgrade.