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Old 08-15-2007, 12:35 PM   #201
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2005 30' Safari rear bunk

I am currently looking at a 2005 30' Safari with rear bunks. The owner says it is new and never titled. It has been sitting in a grass lot for what looks to be about 2+ years. The interior is new looking, though the outside looks like it's been sitting for 2+ years.
Two questions, if I may.
1) What should I look for in a trailer that's been sitting for such a long time?
2) The owner said it had an MSRP of $54,000. What is a good price for this new 2005, never been anywhere but a grassy field model?
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Old 08-15-2007, 01:14 PM   #202
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Why never titled? Is the current owner a dealer? If not, the current owner better have a bill of sale and all the paperwork so a new owner could title it. You are looking at a unit beyond the 2 year warranty unless dealing with unsold dealer inventory -- and you're virtually guaranteed to find some warranty-like issues once you would bump this down the road for a season. I would take no personal warranty guarantees from a private party. Therefore I would say the drive-off-the-lot instant depreciation has already occurred and the current owner is the one who has to eat it -- not you. Safari or Classic? Check out the RV section at New Car Prices, Used Car Values, New Car Reviews and Car Buying at NADA Guides for bluebook value - but I don't quite believe the values they are assigning. Seat of the pants only -- but for a private sale I'd need some real convincing to go over $40K. Others may have some recent experience with units this size and age. It's worth what somebody will pay for it. You kiss a lot of frogs before you find your prince ... well, you know what I mean.

I bought my 25' FB SE before Airstream dealers knew what a hit it would be, so we got something of a discount that wasn't available 6 months later. And with the subsequent price rises for this very popular model, could I demand the high prices for '07 & '08 models? I could try to get away with that... $54K isn't even a starting point in my opinion.
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Old 08-15-2007, 01:38 PM   #203
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Outdoor Speakers

Quote:
Originally Posted by FishByFly
I was able to get my speakers wired tonight. The disappointment is similar to what others have said here previously. Itseems that the speakrs are wired incorrectly. When i switch to adjust between inside/out and both, the speakers mid-ship stay on in all positons. I hope that i can fix this by pulling the radio and swithing connections there. Has anyone resolved this by doing so?
FishByFly, rather than pull the radio try my solution. Set the speaker switch to out, then on the radio control panel move the balance control toward the front speakers, you will find that that the inside speakers volume will reduce to all the way off.
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:49 AM   #204
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Welcome to the forums amxpress. I bought my '06 during the tail end of the '06 model year. Airstream had just announced that they were discontinuing the 30' Bunk model and I got approximately 20% off MSRP. $54,000 sounds about right for the MSRP, but that was 2 years ago and the trailer is no longer worth that and is no longer a new trailer. As CanoeStream said, it doesn't have a warranty any longer unless it is coming from a dealer and has never been titled. If it is a private individual who just never filed for a title, it is still a two year old trailer with an expired warranty as far as Airstream and the selling dealer are concerned.

You might expect to pay somewhere in the neighborhood of 20% off for the drive off the lot sale and then an additional 10-15% per year after that so, maybe $31,000-$35,000. If it is from an individual, you might could start a little lower and start at $28,000-$30,000. This might be an insult, but you might get a good deal if you start low. NADA gives a value of $32,000-$39,000. Again, I'm not too sure how good their values are on something as specialized as an Airstream, though.

Good luck and hope to welcome you to our little "Club" in the near future.
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Old 08-16-2007, 09:09 AM   #205
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That works...Lots less effort

Quote:
Originally Posted by pintoman
FishByFly, rather than pull the radio try my solution. Set the speaker switch to out, then on the radio control panel move the balance control toward the front speakers, you will find that that the inside speakers volume will reduce to all the way off.
Pintoman
Thanks for the suggestion. That works just fine.
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:17 PM   #206
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A 2005 on eBay!

eBay Motors: 2005 Used 30 ft Safari Bunkhouse Airstream Trailer RV (item 120150067504 end time Aug-19-07 13:05:20 PDT)
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Old 09-12-2007, 08:34 PM   #207
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Bunkhouse trash location

Quote:
Originally Posted by FishByFly

Wife: where doesone locate the kitchen trash? We previously had a small bag holder on the inside door under the sink. This unit doesn't seem to allow for that. Suggestions?
Hi All,

I've been fulltiming in my bunkhouse for just about a year and a half.
I have 3 ideas on trash.

ONE:
Trash is currently under sink, I access it through the door under the
cutting board. I use a Fresh Step plastic litter container which I sawed
off so it slides in and fits a grocery ag stretched over it. This works well
when I am sitting in the recliner.

TWO:
I hang the freshstep litter bucket by the handle with a small bungie.
I hang it of the frame of the smoke detector. The smoke detector
has been removed since I can not cook at all without it going off. I
use this when I am cleaning or running in and out.

THREE:
Okay this is the dream. There is dead space to the left of the sink
under the counter. I've been wanting to cut the counter to fit some
kind of container. If it were cut to fit a standard cutting board as a lid,
then I could leave the lid off when parked and toss the trash in without
opening the cabinate door. I hesitate because it is irreversable and I
would not want to mess it up.

Chrispy
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Old 11-22-2007, 10:34 AM   #208
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Just a quick intro to this group...our bunkhouse is our second Airstream...our first was a 25' side bath sovreign we bought new in 1984....had it 18 years until it was totalled in '03. With 3 girls and a boy still at home we were excited to learn about a bunkhouse only to find the had quite making them in '05. We started the search and found those in North Texas and other places but the one we bought was in Oregon, BRAND NEW and just about everything possible: skylight (which we like) solar panels ( which give unlimited back country flexibility) magic fans and leather sofa ....I only wish the black water tanks were bigger and the exterior drain pipes weren't so close to the road the side bath would have made this trailer perfect in my opinion. Pulling this thing with a diesel Excursion is just about the only way to go. So far no problems but like to hear what to watch for...we have only had this since May 06.
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Old 11-22-2007, 11:09 AM   #209
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Quote:
I hang the freshstep litter bucket by the handle with a small bungie.
I hang it of the frame of the smoke detector. The smoke detector
has been removed since I can not cook at all without it going off. I
use this when I am cleaning or running in and out.
Chrispy
I'd like to see you either move the smoke detector to a more remote location in the trailer, or remove the battery when cooking and then re-install it.
I would hate to call you Crispy.
Dave
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Old 11-22-2007, 11:10 AM   #210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captdaddy
Just a quick intro to this group...our bunkhouse is our second Airstream...our first was a 25' side bath sovreign we bought new in 1984....had it 18 years until it was totalled in '03. With 3 girls and a boy still at home we were excited to learn about a bunkhouse only to find the had quite making them in '05. We started the search and found those in North Texas and other places but the one we bought was in Oregon, BRAND NEW and just about everything possible: skylight (which we like) solar panels ( which give unlimited back country flexibility) magic fans and leather sofa ....I only wish the black water tanks were bigger and the exterior drain pipes weren't so close to the road the side bath would have made this trailer perfect in my opinion. Pulling this thing with a diesel Excursion is just about the only way to go. So far no problems but like to hear what to watch for...we have only had this since May 06.
Sounds like a great trailer, enjoy!
I agree with you on the exterior plumbing. It hangs so low...
Dave
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Old 11-22-2007, 12:46 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrzowt
Sounds like a great trailer, enjoy!
I agree with you on the exterior plumbing. It hangs so low...
Dave
So do you have any thoughts about how to avoid ripping out your plumbing BEFORE it happens?
Don
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Old 11-22-2007, 01:04 PM   #212
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Welcome Capt Daddy,

You have the best Airstream made for a family!

With 5 people in our trailer, the black tank can fill quickly. My solution - turn off the water to the toilet using the valve behind the toilet. It only gets turned on when someone is putting solids into the tank. This gives us at least 5 days of dry camping.

I did manage to hit my drain pipes on a cement block. The plastic parts can flex quite a bit, and the aluminum skin can rip easily. After the block was removed, everything was OK requiring only a bit of duct tape over the rip.

Rick
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Old 11-22-2007, 01:06 PM   #213
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Chrispy, there are two easy solutions to your smoke detector problem.

1) Open the Fantastic Vent and run it whenever you are cooking. The vent hood isn't enough to prevent the smoke detector from alarming, but the Fantastic Vent moves a lot more air. Be sure to open a window for make-up air, as well.

2) If your detector is the same as ours, press the "Hush" button. As written on the back label, "the Hush button will decrease the alarm sensitivity for approximately 7 minutes. During this time the alarm will chirp every 45 seconds." This does the trick every time.

Re: low hanging plumbing. If you draw a mental line from the bottom of the rear tire to the scraper bar on the rear bumper, you'll see it's pretty hard to catch the plumbing on something without the rear scraper hitting first. (But as Rick Gillis has proved, it's not impossible.)

If you don't buy that explanation, try this: We've been off-road with our trailer, and in/out of literally thousands of driveways and we've never snagged it yet. So far, two years of full-time travel, seven crossings of the USA, almost 60,000 miles of towing, and not even a scratch on the plumbing. It looks bad but it really isn't a problem.

Enjoy that bunkhouse!
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Old 11-22-2007, 02:04 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rluhr
Chrispy, there are two easy solutions to your smoke detector problem.

1) Open the Fantastic Vent and run it whenever you are cooking. The vent hood isn't enough to prevent the smoke detector from alarming, but the Fantastic Vent moves a lot more air. Be sure to open a window for make-up air, as well.

2) If your detector is the same as ours, press the "Hush" button. As written on the back label, "the Hush button will decrease the alarm sensitivity for approximately 7 minutes. During this time the alarm will chirp every 45 seconds." This does the trick every time.

Re: low hanging plumbing. If you draw a mental line from the bottom of the rear tire to the scraper bar on the rear bumper, you'll see it's pretty hard to catch the plumbing on something without the rear scraper hitting first. (But as Rick Gillis has proved, it's not impossible.)

If you don't buy that explanation, try this: We've been off-road with our trailer, and in/out of literally thousands of driveways and we've never snagged it yet. So far, two years of full-time travel, seven crossings of the USA, almost 60,000 miles of towing, and not even a scratch on the plumbing. It looks bad but it really isn't a problem.

Enjoy that bunkhouse!
I get a little gunshy when I have to back into a site that has a curb /log to keep you from going into too far

Don
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:43 PM   #215
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Backing up to the curb

In campsites where there's a log or curb at the back, I have my professional "backer-upper" (wife) look below as I move sloooowly back. She makes sure we don't hit the curb. There has been many sites where we've backed the rear axle right up to the curb, and a few where we couldn't because we'd scrape the plumbing.
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:52 PM   #216
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Right!! I have one of those backer-uppers as well but it doesn't work at night or in the rain!!!!..Thanks for the insights....glad to see you're doing plenty of streaming...Don
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Old 11-25-2007, 01:44 PM   #217
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Winterizing the 30' Bunkhouse

This is our first wnter with this Airstream. I successfully (for Texas weather) performed this process for several winters in our previous Excella.

This weekend, as we packed up from our Thankgiving trip, I winterized this trailer. I began the process of draining all the lines and fresh water tank. Then I blew out all the lines using an air compressor set at 60 lbs. I finished the process by sucking the "pink stuff" until it discharges from every draing line and plumbing fixture.

After completing the prcess, i decided to read the manual to test how I did. With the Safari, I see a couple of items recommended in the manual that seem strange to me. It say you have to disconnect the pump at the intake. Is this necessary? Do have sitll have water where I don't want water? Is there a major step that I missed?

Please advise.
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Old 11-25-2007, 08:12 PM   #218
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Winterizing

It sounds like you covered it. If you sucked the "pink stuff" through the pump, you have it covered. Don't forget the outside shower and the inside tub drain. The shower tub drain goes all the way around the back of the trailer in a big "U", so there is a potential for water to get stuck there.

I presume you used the water heater bypass after draining the heater tank and opened the two system drains located between the wheels, curb-side. I also like to let a little antifreeze into the heater tank.

I pulled the batteries out today and put them in the garage where it doesn’t get as cold. I also topped of the electrolyte and charged them, as fully charged batteries are unlikely to freeze.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:03 PM   #219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captdaddy
So do you have any thoughts about how to avoid ripping out your plumbing BEFORE it happens?
Don
Only the normal awareness of rocks, logs, etc.
The closest call I ever had was actually a 2x4 that I had placed for leveling. As I moved the trailer so I could retreive all of my stuff, the wheel pushed one end of the 2x4 down, the other end up into the grey water valve. Yes, I'm glad it was the grey. I was able to get it shut back off, but it damaged the bracket and required some repair.
Dave
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:05 AM   #220
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Winterizing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Amsterdamer
I presume you used the water heater bypass after draining the heater tank and opened the two system drains located between the wheels, curb-side. I also like to let a little antifreeze into the heater tank.

I pulled the batteries out today and put them in the garage where it doesn’t get as cold. I also topped of the electrolyte and charged them, as fully charged batteries are unlikely to freeze.
Amsterdamer,
Thanks for the confirmation. We actually got cold enough last night to get a mild frost. I slept well knowing that I got this done before the weather change.

I did find the two low point drain values. These are something my last trailer didn't have. I also bypassed the water heater and like your idea of letting a little into the tank.

As for the batteries, I've never pulled these in the past here in Texas. I installed a disconnect to prevent the slight draw down from the trailer. I'll go out periodically to place a charge to top them off.

Thank you again for your input!
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