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Old 02-08-2005, 08:57 PM   #21
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Jack has me scratching my head and wondering if I had my bases covered. I have an auxillary crank handle that's suppose to operate the power jack when the batteries are too low. Granted - the ratio is low enough to take a lot of cranking - but that's probably easier than pulling the battery and recharging. Since I've never tried this procedure with the handle, what am I missing???
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Old 02-08-2005, 09:09 PM   #22
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If the trailer batteries are heavily discharged, just disconnect the cables from their negative sides and use the tow vehicle's charging system to operate the jack and get hooked up.
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Old 02-08-2005, 10:29 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cracker
Jack has me scratching my head and wondering if I had my bases covered. I have an auxillary crank handle that's suppose to operate the power jack when the batteries are too low. Granted - the ratio is low enough to take a lot of cranking - but that's probably easier than pulling the battery and recharging. Since I've never tried this procedure with the handle, what am I missing???
The biggest problem with this procedure is the need to resyncronize the head of the jack with the gears. If you don't do this, you ruin the gears. I used the manual crank on my Safari when I had a short in the wiring. I didn't resync the head and ended up messing up the gears. According to the dealer the gear repair is not covered under warranty.

Jack
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Old 02-10-2005, 07:34 PM   #24
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Syncronizing Gears

Thanks for the "heads up" Jack! I never would have thought that manually cranking the jack would take it out of syncronization. I know how to "re-syncronize" it - but I would have probably blown it by the time I realized I was doing something wrong! Somehow that impresses me as being a built-in design flaw.
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Old 02-10-2005, 07:46 PM   #25
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Jack is correct in synchronizing the gears. Our gears blew up on our way home from the dealer with our new 2005 Classic last fall. I found out that the manual cranking was not strenuous. Airstream also replaced the power jack head under warranty at no charge. Not being near a dealer, they shipped it to me and I installed it myself following the synchronization instructions very carefully.
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:10 PM   #26
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Is there a published procedure on synchronizing the gears?
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:10 PM   #27
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Max just came home with our anniversary present. Our anniversary was last October, mind you, but "good stuff" takes time to find. Ever since primitive camping in Many Glacier last summer and finding our batteries dead-rendering our electric jack useless on the morning we planned to leave and having to be rescued by another Airstreamer and his Honda generator--we promised we'd have a generator of our own before traveling this year. This became our anniversary quest-a power accessory for our Gypsy. Planning is easier than finding, so at last today, on a trip to a neighboring town for court, Max found the Honda2000 we had decided on and toted it home. Mission accomplished. Gypsy accessorized. Anniversary celebrated, if a bit late! We'll feel a little more secure in those "back in the boonies" camps we love to find. And, if in time we want to add the second 2000 with linkage as some of you have done so we can run the A/C and keep cool, we'll be able to.
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:44 PM   #28
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Replacing Jack Powerhead (from Airstream Owner's Manual)

1. With 12 volts connected, ground the powerhead to trailer A frame. Operate main switch in "post-retracting direction" until motor stops automatically.

2. Using emergency handle, crank post clockwise by hand until fully retracted, then turn crank one turn counter-clockwise.

3. Replace head on post and make sure that drive pin is engaged with post coupler. Tighten allen set screws.
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:48 PM   #29
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Thanks, I'll file these instructions with my "take along" stuff.
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:11 AM   #30
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Quote:
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Those small tank capacity numbers scared me to death... I thought, "WHAT have they done to the 25 Classic?"
the 25' classic has 54 fresh --39 gray--30 black-------Pieman
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:47 AM   #31
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Yep. From what was posted though, and the poster's Airstream description, I thought they'd cut it back.
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Old 02-15-2005, 07:54 PM   #32
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Back to the original question:

Most of our camping is without hookups. Last year, out of 30 days camping, we had one day with hookups.

I suppose it's a carryover from years of tent camping, but conservation is the key (water, battery, etc.).

On the water side, use the campground facilities. Showers and restrooms will take care of most of the high use requirements. If need be, a sponge bath will save a lot of water if the campground doesn't have showers.

On the electric side, choose your priorities. In my case, I want capacity to cover the water pump, refrig and water heater. Everything else is gravy.

I do have a Honda EU2000, which I run every few days for an hour or so to help the battery recover. This works for our usage.
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Old 04-24-2005, 11:17 AM   #33
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Thumbs up Charging from Tow rig

I had an incident 2 weeks ago were the batteries were discharged to about 30-40%. We were leaving the campground that morning so I plugged into the tow vehicle and hit the road. I later stoped at a rest stop some 50 miles down the road, and noticed no change in battery condition. I suspected it was the positive feed from the tow rig that was not working. I tested with indicator light and it was not sending a charge. I found the 20 amp mini fuse located in the giant fuse panel under the hood had blown.

Question: Could the depleted condition of the batteries draw too many amps from the tow rig to pop the fuse?

I replaced the blown fuse with a 25 amp one because its all I had and headed out. It did the job and charged up the batteries. I have since put a 20 amp fuse back in. I would recomend to anyone to carry a selection of those tiny mini fuses it seems more trucks are using these now rather than the larger blade fuses.

I had towed with this truck and trailer many times before and no problem. But the batteries are group 24 and 3 years old now, and I do add water when they get low.

Any thought?
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Old 04-24-2005, 01:00 PM   #34
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I'm not sure but, here is some supposition for you.
The a typical altenator is 65 to 100amps. The voltage regulator will feed the battery all it can take depending upon the battery voltage. (Up to the altenator rated output)
If the altenator sees a low voltage it could possibly put out more than a 20amp fuse can handle.
The unknown is; is there a regulating device on the trailer charge line in the vehicle? We know it's not on the trailer side. You would think that the vehicle manufacturer would take this possibility into account. Who knows.
With these unknowns I would try the following.
1.) Check your hook up connections could be corrsion. (Salt air)
2.) Measure the voltage of the vehicle charge line, low voltage means trouble some where.
3.) Check ground between the trailer and vehicle, could cause trouble.
4.) Check the condition of your batterycould be shorted between two or more cells.
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Old 04-25-2005, 12:07 AM   #35
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Salt AIR

Were on earth would I come into contact with salt air?

Suppose corossion could be possible. I also found that when my truck is hooked up to the trailer the power still flows from truck to trailer, (stays hot even with ignition off).

I will wait and see if it happens again after I do a cleaning of the umbilical contacts.
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Old 04-25-2005, 12:20 AM   #36
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Quote:
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Were on earth would I come into contact with salt air?

Suppose corossion could be possible. I also found that when my truck is hooked up to the trailer the power still flows from truck to trailer, (stays hot even with ignition off).

I will wait and see if it happens again after I do a cleaning of the umbilical contacts.


Oh No Mr. Bill.
Sounds like your charge relay is stuck on.
The charge relay should disconnect the truck from the trailer when the ignition is turned off, this is supposed to keep the trailer from discharging the truck battery.
You really need to check that out.
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Old 04-25-2005, 05:58 AM   #37
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Another possibility, if you have weak batteries and need to get the jack up, is to relieve the strain on the jack with a hydraulic bottle jack. The electric jack motor will not be operating under load, and therefore will not need very much current to retract. I got a nice hydraulic jack in a nifty plastic case at Tractor Supply for $16 that I keep in the cab of the truck.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:21 AM   #38
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Just a quick note about dry camping without hooking up to shore power. You don't have to run your generator all the time to use smaller 110 v. appliances. In particular, we run our 17" Panasonic Plasma TV, which consumes just 13 watts, from a 150 watt inverter. We purposefully chose this TV because of its low power consumption. The house batteries can easily run the TV for over 10 hours on one charge. The inverter plugs into the cigarette lighter style plugs located above the desk and the TV plugs into the inverter. You could easily power an additional DVD player or laptop computer. For making coffee, running the hair dryer, using the microwave oven,or just recharging the batteries, we fire up the Honda EU 2000.

Using the inverter is nice and quiet and saves clocking those running hours on the generator.
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:36 AM   #39
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Water Question

I would like the group's ideas on how to get water into the trailer without having to tow the trailer to a faucet. I'd rather not have to tear down camp every few days.

I just bought a 7 gallon water jug from Wally Mart... but how do I easily get the water from the jug into the trailer? Anyone find a funnel that can go into the water fill hole and stay put? Ideas on how to prop up the water jug so I don't have to stand there holding 50lbs of jug?

In July we will be dry camping near Aspen, CO for 2 weeks. I'm sure the Forest Service campgrounds have water somewhere, I just need to get it into the trailer.
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:51 AM   #40
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Dan.

My method sucks.

The first thing I do upon finding a space at a campground is find a water source and fill my FW tank so at least I start out with a full tank. This also gives me a few days to excersise and go through basic training so that I'm nice and strong for the next part...

It is a matter of filling up a couple of those 5 gallon cube things, hauling them to the AS. I have a 2 foot lenghtht of hose that I sort of stick in the opening of the cube, make as good a seal as I can with my bare hand, hoist the sucker up and empty into the tank.

As I fill up the tank with water and the mosquitos are draining me of my blood, I wonder 1)- Could I exist on beer for the remainder of a trip?
2) Could I convince the wife to do this? This would probably get me back to question 1. 3) Rig up some 12volt pump device thing to transfer water from a cube/container and let that do the work.

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