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Old 06-13-2012, 12:27 PM   #21
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Dznf0g

That is not what I would have expected. Your experience changes my thinking on replacing as a preventative item. My thought was that the internal diaphragm was the weak point, and it simply fail to provide gas flow upon failure.
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Old 06-02-2013, 10:54 PM   #22
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I have a 1970 trade wind with the original regulator. All appliances work fine with now the exception of the cat heater, hot is no longer hot. Is it time for a new regulator, or shall I tinker with the old one. I have read that the new ones are of poor quality and need frequent replacement. Perhaps I should inspect the diaphram and spring!!!

Any thoughts?
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Old 06-02-2013, 11:14 PM   #23
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If your lines are exposed to the sun you could get electrical flume and put in on your hoses. I have done that on my boat for my BBQ.
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Old 06-03-2013, 12:19 AM   #24
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Ah, the kicker: that 48 year old regulator was made in the USA. The junk out there now is made in China...
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:06 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlavergne View Post
I don't worry about the regulator
as much as the pigtail rubber gas lines between tanks and regulator. There is lots of opportunity for leaks there over time.

Yup, My OEM lines were only 6 years old and were rock hard and stiff. Seeping at the crimps, so replaced this spring.
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Old 06-03-2013, 07:34 AM   #26
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The rubber hose was at fault on my trailer but I replaced the regulator anyway. This was the low pressure side hose and it was swollen shut from oil exposure. I think I will replace it with stainless tubing at some point which won't crack from vibrations like copper will.

Perry
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:15 AM   #27
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Hoses on our 1999 were inflexible. When I removed lowest point connection some foul smelling liquid poured out! It smelled like the odor chemical used in producing the classic smell to the gas. It was like a mixture of deteriorated fuel line slime typical in vehicles.

Being curious, I cut open the rubber lines. I found some bubbled interior which means the lines were indeed failing from inside too. Clearly the originals were a threat.

With constant exposure to the elements and marginal quality in "new" parts, the actions are simple, a mere nuisance and recommended if not necessary.

I replaced the rubber lines, regulator and tank connections.
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:27 AM   #28
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Just about all compressors use oil and contaminate the propane with oil which finds its way into the rubber lines and caused them to swell. The oil absorbs the smell from the gas but the oil is not the source of the smell.

Perry
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Old 06-03-2013, 11:19 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
Just about all compressors use oil and contaminate the propane with oil which finds its way into the rubber lines and caused them to swell. The oil absorbs the smell from the gas but the oil is not the source of the smell.

Perry
Thanks Perry!
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:10 PM   #30
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Regulator Replacement

Not sure it should be a scheduled replacement part. But you can get the entire set of hoses, regulator and crossover valve for around $110 from Inland Andy or any other supplier. Not a bad price for peace of mind.
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Old 06-03-2013, 02:25 PM   #31
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I recently bought all three hoses and new 2-stage auto regulater for under $60 including Prime shipping from Amazon.
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Old 06-03-2013, 04:52 PM   #32
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Possible leak?

I have a 1990 -- all original regulators and hoses. My open tank sat for over a year and one time I thought I smelled the propane. I haven't soap tested it yet, but saw this thread and knew I needed to read it.

Just finishing a water leak at the city water inlet with a leak in the grey PB water connections. In fact just received the parts from Amazon today for the repair. But that is another problem....

AWChief: you just posted that you ordered some parts off Amazon, what exactly did you get. Probably most of our coaches use about the same thing. I have two aluminum 30 gal tanks. Would appreciate some part suggestions.

And how far back did you feel you needed to replace? Maybe the hose degradation could be similar to the ethanol fuel problem many see with older outboard boats that sit for a while.

thanks for your input
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Old 06-04-2013, 06:34 AM   #33
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Steve: I bought,

Camco 59005 RV Propane Double-Stage Auto-Changeover Regulator ($30.55)

2-Camco 59053 12" RV Pig Tail Propane Hose Connector ($11.32 @)

I had the other hose made up by a local gas supplier for under $10.00. I believe it is about 38 inches long. It goes from where the copper line comes out from under the trailer to the regulator.
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:15 PM   #34
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When it comes to propane, gasoline or any highly flammable liquid safety exceeds saving money.
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:03 AM   #35
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And cost is not necessarily an indication of quality.
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Old 06-06-2013, 04:50 PM   #36
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f287...tor-23016.html
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:54 AM   #37
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Avion used these:

Fisher Controls Automatic Changeover Regulator - Dultmeier Sales

Cost is about $250 each, but high quality.
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:43 PM   #38
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Replacement for Marshall Gas pigtail Model A4

Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Yup, My OEM lines were only 6 years old and were rock hard and stiff. Seeping at the crimps, so replaced this spring.
Rich, what did you buy to replace your propane pigtails (and where)?

My OEM 12" pigtails were made by Marshall Gas Controls 8 years ago and one now has a small leak. So I want to replace both pigtails.

Did you need to buy an adapter for the fitting into the regulator? (Something about metric vs. inches.)

Did you use yellow gas line thread seal tape on the connection to regulator?

Of course, anyone else is also welcome to share their experiences in finding the correct replacement propane pigtail.

Thanks!
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:17 PM   #39
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Silvergate,

I don't recall where I got them.....I want to say Camco from Camping World, but I'm not sure. Yes and adapter was required, and yes I used yellow thread tape.
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Old 04-25-2015, 09:21 AM   #40
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Quote:
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Silvergate,

I don't recall where I got them.....I want to say Camco from Camping World, but I'm not sure. Yes and adapter was required, and yes I used yellow thread tape.
Thanks, Rich!

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