Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-02-2017, 03:27 PM   #41
Continents Collide
 
1985 32' Excella
Spring , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 123
http://www.g-w.com/pdf/sampchap/9781566379656_ch03.pdf

Reading this right now. Things have been said on here too but can't have too many resources.
continentsco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2017, 06:00 PM   #42
3 Rivet Member
 
tonydead's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Kent , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 121
Quote:
Originally Posted by continentsco View Post
The issue i had was finding 1/2 OD in anything less than 50ft pieces when I only needed 22ft or so. You can find 1/2 ID almost everywhere.
Yeah, now I'm not sure which sizes I need. Going to measure when I get home and hopefully it's not the 5/8" OD that is harder to work with.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	pipe-sizing-charts-tables-4.png
Views:	145
Size:	58.9 KB
ID:	279117  
tonydead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2017, 06:28 PM   #43
Rivet Master
 
Bigventure's Avatar
 
2016 30' Classic
Hinckley , Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 886
Images: 4
Running new gas lines

I'm not sure why your all replacing the gas lines. If there green it ok. As long as they don't leak leave them alone. Perhaps rehang or refasten it. You can add to it or change the lines but they don't have to be replaced in there entirety.

In the chart above it is referring to rigid copper. The letter at the top is the wall thickness. K is the thickest. Unusually used for air conditioning. Or underground. L is good water line. M is the thinnest.

But once again ... tube size is only purchased by OD.
Rigid pipe is know as nominal sizes.
So 1/2 nominal is 5/8 tube. 3/4 nominal is 7/8 tube.

What you have to do is figure out how many BTUs the appliance is. It on the label. Then size the tube accordingly. It will only pass so much though it. If you have a tee then you add the two together and figure the run. But you can generalize. 3/8 + 3/8= 6/8 or 1/2. If you can't find the tube and fittings upsize it. Fitting are expensive.

A spring bender is a cheap way to bend the tube. There only a few dollars. And it prevents kinking the tube.

One more thing when you exit the trailer bend a question mark loop. Don't try to get a tight bend. In other words extend below and loop back up to lay flat. You may want to put some old hose on it where it come out.
__________________
My budget won't stop me from buying something online that I don't need, but the threat of getting promotional
emails every day for the rest of my life just might!
Bigventure is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 08:18 AM   #44
4 Rivet Member
 
youngpeck's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Salt Lake City , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
One more thing when you exit the trailer bend a question mark loop. Don't try to get a tight bend. In other words extend below and loop back up to lay flat. You may want to put some old hose on it where it come out.
I'm curious. Why a "question mark" bend/loop?
youngpeck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 02:18 PM   #45
Rivet Master
 
Bigventure's Avatar
 
2016 30' Classic
Hinckley , Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 886
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by youngpeck View Post
I'm curious. Why a "question mark" bend/loop?

For instance when the tube exits the floor, you cannot bend a perfect 90. And you don't want a fitting in the floor. So you go longer and bend back up. Like a P laying forward. Or a question mark laying forward.
__________________
My budget won't stop me from buying something online that I don't need, but the threat of getting promotional
emails every day for the rest of my life just might!
Bigventure is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2017, 04:45 PM   #46
4 Rivet Member
 
youngpeck's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Salt Lake City , Utah
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 398
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
For instance when the tube exits the floor, you cannot bend a perfect 90. And you don't want a fitting in the floor. So you go longer and bend back up. Like a P laying forward. Or a question mark laying forward.
That makes perfect sense. I'll do that when I make my three connections. Thanks for the tip.
youngpeck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2017, 01:43 PM   #47
3 Rivet Member
 
tonydead's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Kent , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 121
Measured mine and I have about 12 foot of 5/8" OD going from the tanks to the middle of the trailer and then 4 lines of 3/8" OD going off to each appliance. No 1/2" OD anywhere. Going to replace as closely to original as possible.
tonydead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2017, 02:02 PM   #48
3 Rivet Member
 
tonydead's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Kent , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
I'm not sure why your all replacing the gas lines. If there green it ok. As long as they don't leak leave them alone. Perhaps rehang or refasten it. You can add to it or change the lines but they don't have to be replaced in there entirety.

In the chart above it is referring to rigid copper. The letter at the top is the wall thickness. K is the thickest. Unusually used for air conditioning. Or underground. L is good water line. M is the thinnest.

But once again ... tube size is only purchased by OD.
Rigid pipe is know as nominal sizes.
So 1/2 nominal is 5/8 tube. 3/4 nominal is 7/8 tube.

What you have to do is figure out how many BTUs the appliance is. It on the label. Then size the tube accordingly. It will only pass so much though it. If you have a tee then you add the two together and figure the run. But you can generalize. 3/8 + 3/8= 6/8 or 1/2. If you can't find the tube and fittings upsize it. Fitting are expensive.

A spring bender is a cheap way to bend the tube. There only a few dollars. And it prevents kinking the tube.

One more thing when you exit the trailer bend a question mark loop. Don't try to get a tight bend. In other words extend below and loop back up to lay flat. You may want to put some old hose on it where it come out.
I'm replacing because it's 40 years old, damaged in a couple of spots and you can't even close the shutoff valves by hand. I'm replacing everything else, why have 40 year old gas lines and fittings?

6/8=3/4 not 1/2 and the existing is 4x 3/8 to one 5/8. Or volume wise inside diameter 4x 1/4 into 1/2 inch. That's half as much if you are adding them up.
tonydead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2017, 02:08 PM   #49
Rivet Master
 
Bigventure's Avatar
 
2016 30' Classic
Hinckley , Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 886
Images: 4
Running new gas lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonydead View Post
I'm replacing because it's 40 years old, damaged in a couple of spots and you can't even close the shutoff valves by hand. I'm replacing everything else, why have 40 year old gas lines and fittings?



6/8=3/4 not 1/2 and the existing is 4x 3/8 to one 5/8. Or volume wise inside diameter 4x 1/4 into 1/2 inch. That's half as much if you are adding them up.


Ah sorry bad math and I was tried.

I didn't want to get into an engineering discussion about correct sizing. A lot of threads go way over board by over thinking stuff.

Copying the sizes that exist is a good way to figure it.
__________________
My budget won't stop me from buying something online that I don't need, but the threat of getting promotional
emails every day for the rest of my life just might!
Bigventure is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-04-2017, 02:25 PM   #50
Rivet Master
 
Bigventure's Avatar
 
2016 30' Classic
Hinckley , Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 886
Images: 4
[QUOTE=tonydead;1907883]I'm replacing because it's 40 years old, damaged in a couple of spots and you can't even close the shutoff valves by hand. I'm replacing everything else, why have 40 year old gas lines and fittings?


Those 40 year old lines are some times better that new cheap stuff.


Damaged spots can be cut out and a flair coupling installed.

Your shut off valves are most likely plug valves and can be operated by loosing the nut on the back side. They can also be taken apart and cleaned up with penetrant.

Or replace it.

I'm just give you options.
__________________
My budget won't stop me from buying something online that I don't need, but the threat of getting promotional
emails every day for the rest of my life just might!
Bigventure is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2017, 01:19 PM   #51
3 Rivet Member
 
tonydead's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Kent , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 121
If you are looking for 1/4 nominal (3/8" OD) lines you might have trouble finding Type L soft. The reason is because the brick and mortar stores carry ACR (Air-Conditioning and Refrigeration) series that is the exact same size instead. Actually there are two 3/8 sizes one with slightly thicker walls than Type L.

At any rate for liquid propane Type L or ACR can be used and the thinner walled Type M isn't available in that size anyway so you can't make the mistake of getting the wrong 3/8". Also, ACR is sized by OD rather than ID like Type L is. That's probably why people are mistaking the between sizes when ordering 3/8 OD and any other larger size.

There is a nice handbook available out there called the Copper Tube Handbook that you can find the PDF for if you google it that has all sorts of information in it like this.
tonydead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-06-2017, 03:18 PM   #52
jkwoodrow
 
1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Springfield , Ohio
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 155
I did not read the entire thread so my apologies if this has been covered.
Be sure to secure the copper lines so they can't vibrate as you bump down the road. Use rubber lined Adel Clamps that won't chafe and will hold the lines firmly.
John Woodrow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2017, 09:35 AM   #53
3 Rivet Member
 
tonydead's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Kent , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 121
Kind of slow going because of the crappy weather we've been having here. But, the main trunk line is done. Here are photos of the manifold I made and a picture of bending the 5/8" to follow the exact route of the old line.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0331.jpg
Views:	118
Size:	353.5 KB
ID:	285555   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0329.jpg
Views:	131
Size:	290.6 KB
ID:	285556  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0330.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	273.1 KB
ID:	285557  
tonydead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2017, 09:49 AM   #54
3 Rivet Member
 
tonydead's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Kent , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 121
Fits perfectly along the same line as the old pipe and even used the same hole locations for the clamp brackets.

Tip: Making flared fittings is easy if you use a real flared fitting tool and not one of the cheap ones from some of the cheap tool stores. Also, it's key to file the inside of the pipe a little bit to take away and burs and indents from cutting the pipe so it doesn't fold over on itself.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0358.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	259.0 KB
ID:	285568   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0359.jpg
Views:	139
Size:	215.8 KB
ID:	285569  

tonydead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2017, 01:41 PM   #55
Rivet Master
 
Bigventure's Avatar
 
2016 30' Classic
Hinckley , Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 886
Images: 4
Running new gas lines

I would never put a valve upside down and exposed to the road. The reason not to put it upside down is anything in the tube will will end up in the packing gland and freeze the valve. Same reason for having them outside.

A valve at the appliance end would have been better. Example, put it in the stove top before the tie in under the range top. Or in a closet base in front of the hot water tank.

For what it's worth I'm a Pipefitter for 35 years.
__________________
My budget won't stop me from buying something online that I don't need, but the threat of getting promotional
emails every day for the rest of my life just might!
Bigventure is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2017, 04:30 PM   #56
3 Rivet Member
 
tonydead's Avatar
 
1976 25' Caravanner
Kent , Washington
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 121
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
I would never put a valve upside down and exposed to the road. The reason not to put it upside down is anything in the tube will will end up in the packing gland and freeze the valve. Same reason for having them outside.

A valve at the appliance end would have been better. Example, put it in the stove top before the tie in under the range top. Or in a closet base in front of the hot water tank.

For what it's worth I'm a Pipefitter for 35 years.
You've been doing it wrong for 35 years!? Just kidding.

That's exactly how the originals were and the reason I keep reading on here is to keep as many connections (including valves) on the outside bottom of the trailer because propane is a heavy gas. But, all the original valves were frozen, then again they were also 40 years old.

Plus the water heater gas doesn't connect inside the trailer and there isn't room for a valve inside the compartment door.

They'll get regular inspection, after each trip when I turn them on.
tonydead is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2017, 05:19 PM   #57
Rivet Master
 
TheGreatleys's Avatar
 
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,042
I have those exact same valves on the outside of my trailer oriented the same way as you. If the valve freezes, it'll be easy to replace. I don't want any more fittings in the living space than absolutely necessary.
TheGreatleys is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2017, 07:35 PM   #58
New Member
 
1970 27' Overlander
Ashland , Pennsylvania
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 2
Sounds smart

Quote:
Originally Posted by tonydead View Post
I'm replacing because it's 40 years old, damaged in a couple of spots and you can't even close the shutoff valves by hand. I'm replacing everything else, why have 40 year old gas lines and fittings?

6/8=3/4 not 1/2 and the existing is 4x 3/8 to one 5/8. Or volume wise inside diameter 4x 1/4 into 1/2 inch. That's half as much if you are adding them up.
I'm an airstream newbie, and my first 1970 Overlander sits in the drive next to the barn, waiting to be renewed. As I am planning to replace/upgrade all electric and plumbing, wondering if I need to expand my work plan after reading this thread. Overall condition is good, but worn. If it is going to need to be done, I'd rather do it when all else is being replaced.

Suggestions? Guidance?
PrKim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2017, 12:49 PM   #59
Rivet Master
 
Bigventure's Avatar
 
2016 30' Classic
Hinckley , Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 886
Images: 4
Running new gas lines

Hi PkKim,
I tell you what I would do. I would not spend the money on valves and extra stuff. Valves are expensive. You can spend $100 easy.

You have valve on the tanks. The only reason to have them is to isolate the different appliances and not lose the use of the others. Plus more joints are more places to leak. If you want to isolate, a little cheap pet cock will work for that.
__________________
My budget won't stop me from buying something online that I don't need, but the threat of getting promotional
emails every day for the rest of my life just might!
Bigventure is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-14-2017, 02:08 PM   #60
Rivet Master
 
AlinCal's Avatar
 
1991 25' Excella
2011 19' Flying Cloud
Santa Ynez , California
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 1,185
I second the no shut off valves at each appliance.
__________________
Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment.
Will Rogers

Alan
AlinCal is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
How to test gas pressure and bleed gas lines? maggieevans LP Gas, Piping, Tanks & Regulators 12 09-25-2013 07:02 AM
New gas lines and pressure tester Splitrock Stoves, Ovens & Microwaves 2 08-29-2010 08:12 PM
Running new LP gas lines photocodo LP Gas, Piping, Tanks & Regulators 19 10-10-2009 11:10 AM
Opinions Needed on new gas lines. nbka1bm LP Gas, Piping, Tanks & Regulators 1 03-17-2008 12:13 PM
Running propane lines Safari Tim LP Gas, Piping, Tanks & Regulators 7 07-01-2007 04:45 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:18 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.