Propane - What's Holding This Rod In?

[shannon]

So maybe I am a little slow, but what the heck is holding this rod inside? I need to shorten the rod to compensate for the new Viking tanks, and don't want to break anything I don't HAVE TO break ... just want to make an improvement!

[FredWilma]

I am doing the exact same on my rig now. You may want to purchase the Viking specific mount tray:


https://www.vikingcylinders.com/product/rv-mount-tray/


The rod in question is threaded and mine just unscrewed from the base.

I then mounted the Viking RV plate directly on top of the existing mounting and secured it to the existing base using 200lb zip ties. You could also spot weld it but I wanted to be able to remove it easily if necessary.

The plate from Viking comes with its own threaded bar and the valve mount and clamp system specific for the Viking cylinders. The airstream propane cover fits over the whole deal.

[Bubba L]

You may consider getting a stainless steel all-thread rod with SS nuts, washers and lock washers. Our Ace Hardware had all. You can still cut the SS rod if needed.

[shannon]

Already built my hoop and tray so I jut need to finish all the pieces before I put it all together on my '70 Safari and paint. On these old trailers, it looks like something is tacked in through the tube holding it (the rod) - so it stays in but jiggles around ... I'm guessing to keep it adjustable. I'll probably just end up adding more threads as is.

[Trons4u]

Does it move side to side? I would say it may have a retaining pin in the side of the sleeve. If it doesn't move, maybe double nutted at the bottom and tac welded on the bottom.

You may want to figure out a way to lock those tanks up to, just so some
A-Hole doesn't snag them

[overlander64]

Originally Posted by Trons4u

You may want to figure out a way to lock those tanks up to, just so some
A-Hole doesn't snag them

A VERY Good Suggestion! Thieves made off with the twenty-pound Worthington LP Tanks from my Argosy Minute 6.0 Metre, and it was parked within view of my kitchen windows. I learned a couple of lessons from that experience -- the quick connect, plastic connectors like found on barbecue grills are an invitation to thieves looking for LP tanks on travel trailers -- valuable LP tanks need some form of secure connection to the trailer to discourage thieves even if you feel that your storage area is secure. Part one of my solution has been to switch my Minuet back to the old-fashioned metal tank connections that require a large, heavy wrench to install/remove -- this evidently discouraged the thieves from absconding with the 40-pound Worthington LP Tanks on my Airstream as it was parked next to the Minuet. Part two of my solution has been to secure the tanks to the tongue of the trailer with vinyl-coated cable locks. Neither one of these will stop a determined thief, but will at least slow the thief down.

[PA BAMBI II]

Originally Posted by shannon

So maybe I am a little slow, but what the heck is holding this rod inside? I need to shorten the rod to compensate for the new Viking tanks, and don't want to break anything I don't HAVE TO break ... just want to make an improvement!

I know you are looking at some other ideas from previous responders, but to answer your original question, I have the same setup on my '64, and I believe the hold-down rod is held in place either by a quick spot of weld or a roll pin.

I will take a look to confirm. I don't think it could easily be removed after 60-plus years.

[shannon]

Yep. Just going to thread that rod down some more, and leave it alone. Locking suggestions are much appreciated. We live in a sleepy neighborhood in a sleepy town, and it is easy to get very complacent over the decades! LOCK EM UP!

[StevenD]

I think that rod should be the same as our 73 Safari and is held on with a roll pin. It always spooked me that those two propane tanks were being held onto the trailer using only a single pin around an 1/8 inch in diameter. I drove out the pin with a punch and replaced the rod with allthread and used a couple of nuts to secure it in place as referenced by another poster.

[4RXLA]

Originally Posted by shannon

Already built my hoop and tray so I jut need to finish all the pieces before I put it all together on my '70 Safari and paint. On these old trailers, it looks like something is tacked in through the tube holding it (the rod) - so it stays in but jiggles around ... I'm guessing to keep it adjustable. I'll probably just end up adding more threads as is.

My ‘77 has a roller pin through a small hole in the bottom of the round bar that keeps it in place.

[rodsterinfl]

Thieves made off with the twenty-pound Worthington LP Tanks from my Argosy Minute 6.0 Metre, and it was parked within view of my kitchen windows.

I have my worthington 30# aluminum tanks still. That is awful! I have been worried about the lithium batteries!

[foobar]

Originally Posted by overlander64

A VERY Good Suggestion! Thieves made off with the twenty-pound Worthington LP Tanks from my Argosy Minute 6.0 Metre, and it was parked within view of my kitchen windows. I learned a couple of lessons from that experience -- the quick connect, plastic connectors like found on barbecue grills are an invitation to thieves looking for LP tanks on travel trailers -- valuable LP tanks need some form of secure connection to the trailer to discourage thieves even if you feel that your storage area is secure. Part one of my solution has been to switch my Minuet back to the old-fashioned metal tank connections that require a large, heavy wrench to install/remove -- this evidently discouraged the thieves from absconding with the 40-pound Worthington LP Tanks on my Airstream as it was parked next to the Minuet. Part two of my solution has been to secure the tanks to the tongue of the trailer with vinyl-coated cable locks. Neither one of these will stop a determined thief, but will at least slow the thief down.

I use the "Gas Lock" propane tank lock from Torklift products to secure my two 30lb Worthington aluminum tanks.

I am a fan of the Torklift Gas Lock product. Nice rugged design and construction. It holds the tanks securely and would be very difficult for a thief to bypass or disable.

https://www.torklift.com/rv/fortress-gaslock
Attachment 437853

[MarlinOnMove]

How much was the Fortress Gaslock? Their website doesn’t even give pricing. Did you buy it directly from them?

[foobar]

Originally Posted by MarlinOnMove

How much was the Fortress Gaslock? Their website doesn’t even give pricing. Did you buy it directly from them?

I bought it directly from Torklift.

I just looked up my purchase confirmation email and the total (tax and shipped included) was $83.19.

A bit pricey, but a pair of new aluminum Worthington tanks is about $1000, assuming you can actually find some to buy.

I was a bit reticent to spend $83 on this lock sight unseen, but after having received it, evaluated the design and construction, as well as using it for a year... my conclusion is that it was money well spent. It's really a premium device and would be very difficult for someone to defeat and steal our propane tanks.

The lock is difficult to pick too using a pickset and my rusty locksmithing skills. Overall, I am happy with the purchase.

[shannon]

Looks impressive! You all have influenced me to be more concerned about security of my new Viking tanks, although considerably less expensive than polished aluminum tanks. And that Torklift - Fortress Gaslock? Looks like it would take some intelligence to get past it - something todays thieves seem a little short on. I live in a sleepy little city, but I don't want to wake up and find pieces and parts gone!

[Dick tracy]

How are the Viking tanks working for you? I've been considering them for a couple years. any issues with capacity or refilling?

[shannon]

Well ... they look great! How they work? is yet to be determined. This is a ground-up rebuild, so getting the tanks filled and flowing is a ways off. That said, anybody know whether it is better to have them empty or full - in regard to condensation. AND is condensation even an issue?

They come with tons of documentation for authorities to look at when it comes to filling. Should not be an issue, and if it is? Really, go somewhere else. They are completely legal USA - according to attached documents and imprints on tanks.

[Steyreo]

@Overlander64, can you please tell me what that tube is on the left side of the picture? Is it for an antenna?

Brian

[overlander64]

Greetings Brian!

Originally Posted by Steyreo

@Overlander64, can you please tell me what that tube is on the left side of the picture? Is it for an antenna?

Brian

Yes, that is the mounting for the original Skyliner Television Antenna that was a factory option in 1964. Sadly, the second owners didn't use it so they ripped the mast off and threw it away so I do not have the antenna. The knob for rotating the antennal is immediately behind the tube on the inside wall. It utilized twin, 300 ohm flat wire with an amplified plug that contained a 12-Volt DC outlet for a Battery Operated Television on a counter above the refrigerator in my Overlander.

Kevin

[Dingo Girl]

Originally Posted by 4RXLA

My ‘77 has a roller pin through a small hole in the bottom of the round bar that keeps it in place.

Second that on our 67. Replaced with all SS