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m.hony · 09-06-2016, 09:42 AM

How hard is the propane pigtail hose connector to replace?
It looks very straightforward with parts readily available.
Looks like 12" is the standard length.
Seems like longer than 12" would be OK but shorter would be terrible-
Is Teflon tape required?

featherbedder · 09-06-2016, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.hony

How hard is the propane pigtail hose connector to replace?
It looks very straightforward with parts readily available.
Looks like 12" is the standard length.
Seems like longer than 12" would be OK but shorter would be terrible-
Is Teflon tape required?

No there is inverted flare on regulator end. Simply screw pig tail off regulator screw new one on put little soapy water to check for leaks if desired. I never do, never had one leak if so could smell gas. Use what ever length hose you need longer okay but more money. Bill

Boxite · 09-06-2016, 10:30 AM

Two things to consider when replacing the pigtails:

My originals were only 10" long, so the next size I could find was 12" and that's what I ordered. In actual fact, the 20" would have been easier, by forming a "loop" in the hose would have allowed the tanks to remain in their exact same position. The 12" were only slightly longer than the originals...but installing them req'd a VERY-tight bend....possibly leading to future damage/leak... so I had to "rotate outboard" the tanks... so their valves faced slightly outboard instead of straight aft.... in order to allow the 12" pigtails to only curve gently to the regulator.

BTW, the originals were made by Marshall (MEC) and that's also what I ordered online from Amazon...at half the price otherwise available.

SECOND consideration: Be certain of the end-connection. Mine were NOT the common "inverse flare"...but were ordinary 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread...which have a slight taper to a plain end.) The "inverse flare" is intended for threading into another brass fitting, which will adapt that flare to the regulator...which is ordinary NPT (at least in most regulators.)
AND if you do have NPT you will need to use some pipe-dope (my preference) or yellow Teflon tape.
Hope this helps.

m.hony · 09-06-2016, 10:40 AM

So...
Maybe I will get 20" pigtails and make a loop or turn the tanks further out?
The longer pigtail will also come in handy if I ever decide to install gauges other than what are already on the tanks or connected to the monitor inside the trailer. I don't really trust the gauges that are on the tank and I don't really trust the MicroPulse monitor in the trailer.
Lifting the tanks or taping the tanks seems to be as good a method as any for checking the LPG level.

HiJoeSilver · 09-06-2016, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.hony

So...
Maybe I will get 20" pigtails and make a loop or turn the tanks further out?
The longer pigtail will also come in handy if I ever decide to install gauges other than what are already on the tanks or connected to the monitor inside the trailer. I don't really trust the gauges that are on the tank and I don't really trust the MicroPulse monitor in the trailer.
Lifting the tanks or taping the tanks seems to be as good a method as any for checking the LPG level.

If the tanks have the gauges screwed into the top of the tank itself with dial gauge levels. Those are usually very reliable. If they are the ones that connect to the tank propane outlet in line to the pigtail, they are usually pretty accurate when levels start to get low but it's a quick curve.

GammaDog · 09-06-2016, 12:56 PM

Ditto Boxite on the Teflon. Neither the white or pink tape is considered appropriate for natural gas or LP. The yellow is double thickness and is intended for gas connections.

m.hony · 09-06-2016, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver

If the tanks have the gauges screwed into the top of the tank itself with dial gauge levels. Those are usually very reliable. If they are the ones that connect to the tank propane outlet in line to the pigtail, they are usually pretty accurate when levels start to get low but it's a quick curve.

The gauges are part of the tank.
There is also a sensor for the MicroPulse Monitor.
I'm sure the gauges on the tank are more accurate than the MicroPulse.
It automatically switches from one tank to the other when one gets empty.

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TomKirk · 09-06-2016, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.hony

How hard is the propane pigtail hose connector to replace?
It looks very straightforward with parts readily available.
Looks like 12" is the standard length.
Seems like longer than 12" would be OK but shorter would be terrible-
Is Teflon tape required?

Visit etrailer.com.

Order two. Get the length you like. Save old hose for a spare.

Tom

lsbrodsky · 09-06-2016, 02:11 PM

As Boxite said, my originals were just pipe thread. All of the pigtails I could find were inverse flare, so I had to buy adaptors.

Larry

Leadvox · 09-06-2016, 02:16 PM

I put a little yellow gas teflon tape on the to make the threads snug, just be sure that no tape covers any part of the flare fitting. also... I just replaced both my tanks because these fittings were leaking at the tank. I had just completed re-certifying the tanks, they were original 1973 tanks. The service peeps don't check the gaskets on the tanks as part of the recert process. if your hoses are leaking at the tanks it may be the tanks. changing these hoses is about a 5 minute ordeal.

rvb · 09-06-2016, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GammaDog

Ditto Boxite on the Teflon. Neither the white or pink tape is considered appropriate for natural gas or LP. The yellow is double thickness and is intended for gas connections.

I was told the reason to only use yellow is because gas fixture orifices are tiny and the other color teflon can shred and clog those if any it get into the line. Openings in water lines are huge by comparison. I used white on mine once and had to replace the heater pilot because it became completely blocked.

m.hony · 09-06-2016, 03:12 PM

Maybe I should remove the pigtail first and lie it on the counter at the hardware store?

featherbedder · 09-06-2016, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Leadvox

I put a little yellow gas teflon tape on the to make the threads snug, just be sure that no tape covers any part of the flare fitting. also... I just replaced both my tanks because these fittings were leaking at the tank. I had just completed re-certifying the tanks, they were original 1973 tanks. The service peeps don't check the gaskets on the tanks as part of the recert process. if your hoses are leaking at the tanks it may be the tanks. changing these hoses is about a 5 minute ordeal.

Where are gaskets on tanks? All propane cylinders including 500 gal. or larger the valve screws into tanks, no gaskets then lines go to regulator. New parts are less money than tanks.

m.hony · 09-06-2016, 04:20 PM

The line/hose itself is leaking at the fitting with the hex head on the regulator end.
I think new pigtail hose connectors will take care of it.
Only one side is leaking now, but my mind says they are both the same age.

Chaplain Kent · 09-07-2016, 09:51 AM

My pigtails became worn with age. I replaced both but one continues to leak. I have replaced it with another new pigtail, used yellow tape, tightened, loosened, all to no avail, it continues to leak. Is the regulator easily found so I can try replacing that?

Leadvox · 09-07-2016, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by featherbedder

Where are gaskets on tanks? All propane cylinders including 500 gal. or larger the valve screws into tanks, no gaskets then lines go to regulator. New parts are less money than tanks.

The gaskets are inside the tank nozzle. They cannot be replaced, the whole valve assembly has to be replaced. Unscrew your pigtail from the tank and look inside the tank valve, you will see what I am looking at. To replace the valve was around $30. to replace the 30lb tank was $55 (they gave me a deal since it failed after the re-certified the tank.)

Leadvox · 09-07-2016, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent

My pigtails became worn with age. I replaced both but one continues to leak. I have replaced it with another new pigtail, used yellow tape, tightened, loosened, all to no avail, it continues to leak. Is the regulator easily found so I can try replacing that?

this is the one I got but there are many different versions. This one autoswitches when one tank is empty.

tank regulator

I just slipped it over the piece of all thread that rises between the tanks and locked it down with the tank locking nut (if that makes sense).

m.hony · 09-07-2016, 11:09 AM

I got 2 pigtails and pipe dope at the local propane store.
I hope I got the right ones.
Don't know if mine are tapered ends or regular pipe fitting ends-

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Leadvox · 09-07-2016, 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m.hony

I got 2 pigtails and pipe dope at the local propane store.
I hope I got the right ones.
Don't know if mine are tapered ends or regular pipe fitting ends-

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as long as they look like the ones you pulled off you should be good. I found a good picture of an inverted flare.

Inverted flare

I just did all of this when I replaced all the connections coming off the main gas line into the trailer. even learned how to do my own flare ends on copper. Old airstreams... you learn about a lot of things you never would have dreamed of learning.

m.hony · 09-07-2016, 11:57 AM

I haven't pulled them off yet...
The ones I bought look very similar to the one in the inverted flare picture except for that very narrow extra hex section. There is just one section of hex head on the ones I bought as well as the ones on the trailer. The hex portion is a little longer on the new ones.
If I remove the old ones and discover I have the wrong thing I will return them, but for some reason I have a feeling these are correct.
So...
Pipe dope or no pipe dope? I got it if I need it.