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Old 07-07-2006, 06:43 PM   #21
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Hello Michelle

I thought I sent you a message yesterday, wasn't sure if you received it? I believe it was concerning the size of your propane tanks? 30# vs 40#.....? Well, anyway was wondering if that was an option when buying a new AS? Love Missoula area, very beautiful.......

Take care,
Bob
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Old 07-07-2006, 11:11 PM   #22
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Tank Pictures

Lew,
here are the pictures from this afternoon. If you look closely you will see one of my tank is just above half full.
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Old 07-08-2006, 12:11 AM   #23
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Michelle,

Thanks for the pics. Are your guages surface mounted, or do the attach with a thru-tank fitting? Is it's the latter, it would be the first time I have seen a DOT tank with more than one access fitting.
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Old 07-08-2006, 12:19 AM   #24
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Propane Level?

O.K. you people are all beating around the bush, but some of you pretty well hit it. The level of propane is at the sweat or condensation level. Some times during use and certain weather conditions they will show by condensation. Or just pour hot water on your tanks, down the side, and it will instantly show you the level.
They make a kit for barbeques to check the propane level; It comes with a decal to stick onto the tank with level marks [gauge] and the instructions say to pour hot water onto the tank then read the level. You don't need the decal to tell you if you have 1/3 or 1/2 tank.
As for the propane gauges, on the most part, they are very inaccurate because they work on pressure and the pressure doesn't change much from a full tank until almost empty.

Bob
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Old 07-08-2006, 08:11 AM   #25
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I believe that the vapor pressure is around 90 PSI at around 70F, Bob. Relief valves pop off at around 300 PSI.
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Old 07-08-2006, 10:44 AM   #26
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Lew,
They screw into a fitting in the tank. if you rock the trailer you can hear the float on the stick and see the guage move. Thses also register on my status panel in the trailer. Fairly accurate for both the electronic and the direct read.
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Old 07-14-2006, 12:48 PM   #27
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Ohmygawrsh!

Like they say, don't try this at home -- a transparent LP cylinder: http://litecylinder.com/

This raises more questions than it answers. Do we bet a complete Nuvite job on whether it is even on the market in 5 years? I'd bet after the first few accidents it will be out of business from legal comparisons to steel tanks.
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:01 PM   #28
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I'm betting the "clear" tanks are filament wound fiberglass. I worked in this industry (giant tanks) for a while and they are very reliable "old school" technology. I think the only reason they haven't been used for small scale operation is cost. There's a hell of a lot more work that goes into a composite tank than a welded steel vessel. Both have pros and cons when it comes to durability. The steel will likely stand up to impact better but the plastic tank is more corrosion resistant.

We got a magnetic strip that you're supposed to be able to read the level without pouring water over the tank. We'll see how it works this weekend. You do have to be using the tank for it to register a temperature difference. Nice thing about the magnetic vs stick on is we can slap it on the exchange cylinder we use for the BBQ at home and the propane tank top heater.

-Bernie
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:22 PM   #29
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Found this temp vs pressure table:

0F 25.5 psi
40F 65 psi
70F 110 psi
110F 204 psi
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Old 07-14-2006, 01:42 PM   #30
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dtbw on this forum has a cool setup. He has a led light connected to a attachment that goes on the regulator. He keeps both valves opened, when one tank goes empty and changes to the reserve tank, the regulator sends a signal to the led causing it to illuminate indicating that one tank is empty and changeover has occured. The led draws next to no current. It's a pretty simple thing to rig up.
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Old 07-14-2006, 03:41 PM   #31
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Tanks

A friend of mine has a Westfalia and it has a digital readout for the propane tanks in his monitor.I wish I could get one of those put in instead of what I have now.
It would just give me one more step to the Kingdom of laziness.
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Old 07-14-2006, 11:32 PM   #32
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The tank cover creates a little problem... but we always used to pour a cup of warm water over the tank ~ watch the condensation work (especially in the cool of the day...) and visually see how much fuel was left. But I have always felt that when I begin to "smell" the propane in the galley, then I know it is nearly out!
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Old 09-02-2006, 12:11 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhayden
I'm betting the "clear" tanks are filament wound fiberglass. I worked in this industry (giant tanks) for a while and they are very reliable "old school" technology. I think the only reason they haven't been used for small scale operation is cost.
-Bernie
I saw one of these at the state fair yesterday. Pretty neat, you could see the propane level easily.

Two manufacturers have DOT exemption for outdoor use of these cylinders, the one mentioned above, Lite Cylinder of Sweden and Tennessee, and Ragasco of Norway. Both were tested extensively before gaining approval.

The cylinders may be safer than steel when exposed to fire because the poly liner melts, letting the propane escape slowly through the wound fiberglass shell, rather than suddenly as in a steel tank that ruptures.

They are more expensive than steel, but cheaper than aluminum. About $80 for a 20lb tank.
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:29 PM   #34
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Reading the propane gauge

Can someone please explain how to figure out how much propane is left in the tanks when the indicator on one shows a half green and half red stripe? Does this mean the main tank is half empty and it has not shifted over to the reserve tank yet?

This is on a 2007 Safari 27FB with twin 40# tanks and the auto switch over between tanks.

Thank you.
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaddyGrn
But I have always felt that when I begin to "smell" the propane in the galley, then I know it is nearly out!
We had that happen last time out. Then the tank swapped over and the smell went away. My understanding is that the "smell" in propane is at a higher percentage when the tank is almost empty. I checked for leaks (soapy water) when we got home and found none. Opened the valve and then turned it off. The indicator stayed green over night. I also refilled my empty tank ($22).
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:57 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjboswell
Can someone please explain how to figure out how much propane is left in the tanks when the indicator on one shows a half green and half red stripe? Does this mean the main tank is half empty and it has not shifted over to the reserve tank yet?

This is on a 2007 Safari 27FB with twin 40# tanks and the auto switch over between tanks.

Thank you.
If you follow this thread from the beginning you will see lots of hints how to tell what the level of fuel is. Normally when you start seeing the red come up, the tank is getting closer to its empty point. My advice is to check out the tank after a heavy use appliance is running. (Water heater or furnace). You should be able to note a condensation line on the tank, or a cooler portion. Once you find that demacation line, you have found the liquid level. Normally after a heavy use, the liquid will be warmer than the gas. Then take a look at the indicator and you will learn how to relate to the red/green indicator and the level of the tank.

Jack
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Old 05-03-2007, 08:13 AM   #37
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The first time we ran out of gas, I noticed that the lever was really hard to move manually between the two tanks. Is this normal? I sprayed the lever parts with silicon lubricant. Was this harmful?

I haven't checked it lately to see how difficult it might be to move manually between tanks. I did refill both at the end of the winter so we would be starting out the camping season with fresh, full tanks. (I used the furnace all winter set on 50 degrees to keep interior plumbing from freezing.)
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