Old Bottles

[TG Twinkie]

Is it true that you can get old 30# bottles filled, because they are on a Travel Trailer? With this new safety system on the bottles that will close the valve if there is too much gas flow. Will they allow you to run the furnace, the stove and oven, water heater and refer simultaneously without this safety valve closing. I heard that the safety valves were put on the smaller bottles to keep BBQ ers from blowing themselves up. My trailer has 35+ year old 30# bottles. They look in good shape (no dents or rust) on the outside but how can I tell if they are still safe to use?

[Boondocker]

NO. You need OPD valves

[azflycaster]

All bottles between 4 and 40 pounds must be fitted with the OPD upgrade or they can not be legally filled. After the upgrade the round valve knob will be triangular. It will shut off the flow if a hose is broken or if they are opened with no hose attached. I have run water heater, furnace and stove at the same time with no problems. Your 30 year old tanks will most likely need to be inspected and certified before you can fill them.

[Lumatic]

I have had OPD valves put on 30 and 40 # tanks and have not had a problem. I heard the primary reason they are required is to prevent them from being overfilled.

[DavidsonOverlander]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

I have had OPD valves put on 30 and 40 # tanks and have not had a problem. I heard the primary reason they are required is to prevent them from being overfilled.

Approximately how much does it cost to get tanks updated to OPD valves?
Thanks,
Grant

[GO Bob]

Originally Posted by DavidsonOverlander

Approximately how much does it cost to get tanks updated to OPD valves?
Thanks,
Grant

I think I paid about $25 about 5 years ago.

[Mexray]

Look up your local propane dealer in the yellow pages - give them a call - or call several to get the best price on converting to OPD valves and re-certified tanks...they are the experts...

I paid around $30 for the valve replacement and $10 to certify the tanks (each)...

Ray

[overlander63]

The price to update aluminum tanks may be a little higher, because they are generally taller, and require different valves. They also usually can be certified with a visual inspection rather than a hydrostatic test, such as normally done with steel tanks.

[GO Bob]

Originally Posted by overlander63

The price to update aluminum tanks may be a little higher, because they are generally taller, and require different valves. They also usually can be certified with a visual inspection rather than a hydrostatic test, such as normally done with steel tanks.

The 20# were the cheepist. The 30# & 40# were a couple dollars more. I remember they wanted over $30 for my 5lb. As for the recert. , he looked and said unless you drop it the aluminum tanks will last a lifetime.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by GO Bob

As for the recert. , he looked and said unless you drop it the aluminum tanks will last a lifetime.

...So they passed the visual inspection...

[Skamper1]

OK, got a quote of $60 each to recertify and change OPD valves for 30# aluminum tanks. Good price or keep looking? New steel tanks are about $50 each. Thanks. Jack

[3 Dog Nite]

The KOA up here in Cleveland,TN charges $18 plus tax each.

Ricky

[C Johnson]

Originally Posted by Skamper1

OK, got a quote of $60 each to recertify and change OPD valves for 30# aluminum tanks. Good price or keep looking? New steel tanks are about $50 each. Thanks. Jack

Considering the price of new aluminum tanks, I'd say that $60 is a good price. Unless you really want steel tanks.

[arodriguez60]

I paid 75 bucks . But that included filling them up.

[Jammer]

Generally good information here.

One fact to consider is that it is not unlawful to fill non-OPD tanks. The OPD requirement is, technically, voluntary -- but propane dealers treat it as a requirement because their liability insurers require them to do so. People who fill their own tanks, for example, are not affected.

Prices on replacing the valves and recertifying the tanks vary with some dealers considering it a nuisance and others considering it a service they provide to their customers. Since I heat my stick house with propane and buy over 1000 gallons a year from a cooperative where I am nominally part owner, they are fairly accommodating. It may take some calling around and you might find that big cities are worst at this followed closely by natural gas production areas where everyone has their own personal gas well and/or pipeline in their back yard.

You can also replace the cylinder valves yourself, though it's a hassle, and you'll still have to get the tanks recertified. The difficult part is holding the tank stationary while turning the valve with a 3' long wrench. I have found that a piece of an old inner tube for friction, and a big ratchet tiedown work well together for this.

[Skamper1]

Usually have tanks filled at a Ace Hardware in Macon, GA. They sell by the gallon. Guess I could see if they will fill the empty one. I checked prices of OPD valve for aluminum tanks and found them for $29 plus shipping. I've read the forums and am concerned $60 price may not use the "correct" OPD. Any way to ask ahead of time what valve is right for the aluminum? And how would I know the difference? Thanks. p.s. Saw the "how to" on replacing the OPDs. Applying heat to loosen old valve really got my attention! Jack

[Sav'h Steve]

Here is a word doc with the info you want:

Note the different lengths required for the different size aluminum tanks vs the steel ones.

Steve

[Skamper1]

Thanks Steve. Strickland Oil is the only one in the Savannah area that does tank recertification. They ship them to Claxton. Saw the DT 6 stamped on tanks. Now I know what to ask for. Pulling Airstream off of Burnside Island today. Jack

[Distantdrummer]

Originally Posted by Jammer

One fact to consider is that it is not unlawful to fill non-OPD tanks. The OPD requirement is, technically, voluntary -- but propane dealers treat it as a requirement because their liability insurers require them to do so. People who fill their own tanks, for example, are not affected.
.

Very interesting Jammer, I had never heard that before.

Isn't there a Fitting & Hose setup that allows someone to transfer propane from one tank to another? Wonder what those cost and how they work?
Does one of the tanks have to be positioned higher than the other?
If so you could always get a current tank filled and then transfer to your non-ODP tanks.
Lot of extra hassle IMHO, and certainly not to be done without safety in mind and order. But money is tight and gonna get alot tighter so it may be an option for someone.

BTW how does the re-certification procedure work? Is it done while you wait? or do they have to send the tanks off somewhere?
Do they stamp or etch something into the aluminum to show the result passed like they do with the steel tanks?

[Jammer]

I have a liquid withdrawal port and valve on my bulk tank at home, and have a hose and POL fitting. The liquid withdrawal port and valve were on the bulk tank when I bought it, and the hose, second valve at the hose end, and POL were off the shelf. I drilled out the POL to allow a reasonable flow rate. I have a locking valve cover on the liquid withdrawal valve to ensure the safety of children and fools.

Smaller tanks, if inverted, will allow liquid to flow out the POL. I've heard of people who use a "jumper hose" with a POL fitting on each end, then invert and elevate one tank.

It is important to be sure that there are no ignition sources in the vicinity, and that there is at least a slight breeze to prevent gas from accumulating in a low spot.

It is also important to check weights and be sure you don't overfill, especially on those cylinders that lack an OPD.

In addition to the risks of fire and explosion, liquid propane boils at -44 degrees and can cause frostbite, if for example a hose blows or a tank tips over and breaks off a fitting and you get sprayed with the stuff.

Not something to be done casually but some people who understand the hazards and are careful can do it without incident.