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JJTX · 07-08-2021, 01:23 PM

I'm replacing my LP tank mount this year. It is 3 years old, and I've painted it once and I dont feel like scraping and painting again. This time I'm going to line the pan with a thin rubber matt to set the tanks on and undercoat the bottom of the pan as that is actually rusted worse than where the tanks sit.

In my opinion, these mount screws are single use. The screws in the frame.

They are rusted near the bolt head and them breaking is a big headache.

Has someone replaced them recently and knows the bolt and thread size being used and a link to where you got them? I assume these are stainless Steel.

I can get them at the-depot I'm sure, however most of ya'll have replaced this stuff before and probably can provide a URL for replacements as I will not use these screws again.

To the right is the plastic guard for the tank cover. To the left is the hole where the screws go of course. I have already sprayed a coat a paint on it so they look nice and clean now.

Thanks.

nryn · 07-08-2021, 01:53 PM

Just today I started the process of refurbishing the tray, including adding the rubber mat like you.

I have a ProPride and to elevate the tray above the u-bolts used for the yoke, I stacked some washers on the frame under each bolt hole. My tray screws were a tiny bit rusty but I didn’t think they were anywhere near unusable. And the frame shows no rust in that area. I wonder if the elevated tray helps that area clear itself of water more?

JJTX · 07-08-2021, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nryn

Just today I started the process of refurbishing the tray, including adding the rubber mat like you.

I have a ProPride and to elevate the tray above the u-bolts used for the yoke, I stacked some washers on the frame under each bolt hole. My tray screws were a tiny bit rusty but I didn’t think they were anywhere near unusable. And the frame shows no rust in that area. I wonder if the elevated tray helps that area clear itself of water more?

Good question there. The pic I posted is after I brushed the frame with a wirebrush and shot it with rust reformer paint. I had thought about trying to source the plastic sheet that is used to the right, but probably over-thinking it.

The only reason I wouldnt use washers to raise it, is the movement that might occur without that tray sitting flat on the whole frame. Theres a lot of surface area for it stabalize those heavy tanks and I would be concerned the washers would allow the tray to bend/flex vs the load spread out over the A frame.

I did see a post from another member, but the bolt's seem to be a little different than what I have on my 2018.

https://www.fastenal.com/product?query=2132417&fsi=1

This was posted in another thread.

Here.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f28...-a-134760.html

This is what I have now:

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/32417

For the fastenal product listed in the other thread, these are the current item. The link/sku was not valid when I tried. I'm going to get a bunch of these and see how close it is. It might be right on but open to suggestions in any case on what else is being used.

nryn · 07-08-2021, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JJTX

The only reason I wouldnt use washers to raise it, is the movement that might occur without that tray sitting flat on the whole frame. Theres a lot of surface area for it stabalize those heavy tanks and I would be concerned the washers would allow the tray to bend/flex vs the load spread out over the A frame.

I had the same apprehension and used very broad faced washers. The tray is also sitting on the u-bolts in addition to the washers (the washers were used to level with the u-bolt). After reading your message I inspected the tray (which just got some primer) for any indentation or deformation. Nothing. I can tell where the washers were but only because those spots are so much cleaner than everywhere else

.

It made it to and from Alaska, and I figure if it doesn’t deform on that trip, it’s an OK way to go.

I do consider the tray a consumable part. I’ll see if the rubber mat lengthens its next round at all.

JJTX · 07-08-2021, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nryn

I had the same apprehension and used very broad faced washers. The tray is also sitting on the u-bolts in addition to the washers (the washers were used to level with the u-bolt). After reading your message I inspected the tray (which just got some primer) for any indentation or deformation. Nothing. I can tell where the washers were but only because those spots are so much cleaner than everywhere else

.

It made it to and from Alaska, and I figure if it doesn’t deform on that trip, it’s an OK way to go.

I do consider the tray a consumable part. I’ll see if the rubber mat lengthens its next round at all.

Seems like an option for sure . The tray was not expensive. I think etrailer was 46 bucks delivered.

I'm gonna try to give it some more rust corrosion protection on the underside this time and see how it goes after I figure out the mounting bolts.

The original one is likely still good to use. I'm going to go after it with my drill and a brush attachment then sand and see if it'll hold a primer/paint job and I might just re-use that one next time if the paint sticks.

WhereStream · 07-09-2021, 11:28 AM

Interested, as my propane-tank tray is showing a lot of rust.

A question — If you put down some plastic, don't you risk water getting between the tray and the plastic and having a rust party?

CruizinDux · 07-09-2021, 12:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JJTX

....

This was posted in another thread.

Here.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f28...-a-134760.html

This is what I have now:

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/32417

For the fastenal product listed in the other thread, these are the current item. The link/sku was not valid when I tried. I'm going to get a bunch of these and see how close it is. It might be right on but open to suggestions in any case on what else is being used.

I posted #16 to the above thread by the OP, Doc. JJTX is correct in that it's thread cutting as opposed to self tapping. See attached AS recall for the spec.

PatLee · 07-09-2021, 12:49 PM

Hi there - I bought a set of these rubber "Tank Tire Propane Cylinder Holder - Rust Ring Eliminator" rings. I went on Amazon to send a link but the item doesn't show as available; however, you could probably find it via Google. I've attached a photo of the packaging the rings came in.

Wazbro · 07-09-2021, 01:20 PM

Might want to try some spray on bed liner.

JJTX · 07-09-2021, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PatLee

Hi there - I bought a set of these rubber "Tank Tire Propane Cylinder Holder - Rust Ring Eliminator" rings. I went on Amazon to send a link but the item doesn't show as available; however, you could probably find it via Google. I've attached a photo of the packaging the rings came in.

OOS everywhere. I'm gonna try some rubber matts cut to size. It was cheap and pretty thin.

JJTX · 07-09-2021, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wazbro

Might want to try some spray on bed liner.

I did see this suggested and will keep it in mind. The thin rubber matt I really think is going to do the trick.

I'm going to coat the underside with undercoat spray.

JJTX · 07-09-2021, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhereStream

Interested, as my propane-tank tray is showing a lot of rust.

A question — If you put down some plastic, don't you risk water getting between the tray and the plastic and having a rust party?

It would need to be the plastic I'm seeing from the factory for sure. From what I peeled back on there now, the paint is intact where that metal cover sits.

The metal is pretty thick on these trays. I'm going to strip, brush, sand and re paint with primer and paint and see if I can salvage it. I dont think mine has deep rust or any holes and I may just keep it and swap it out in a few years with the new one I got now and then rinse-repeat.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H1AMG...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Check the above link. I'm going to put a coat of this on top of the frame under the tray to protect it with this too. Should work.

JJTX · 07-09-2021, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

I posted #16 to the above thread by the OP, Doc. JJTX is correct in that it's thread cutting as opposed to self tapping. See attached AS recall for the spec.

What I'm trying to do for now, is avoid cutting a new thread pitch. The holes in my frame look like they were tapped with a tool.

CruizinDux · 07-10-2021, 11:20 AM

Makes sense. I went with the heavier thread cutting as 1) what AS used was much smaller, 2) 2 of the 4 were likely overtorgued and fell off with the touch of my box wrench and 3) and instead off using an easyout to get the stubs out, took the opportunity to reposition the tray slightly and end up with 4 new bolts that would unscrew when needed.

JJTX · 07-11-2021, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

Makes sense. I went with the heavier thread cutting as 1) what AS used was much smaller, 2) 2 of the 4 were likely overtorgued and fell off with the touch of my box wrench and 3) and instead off using an easyout to get the stubs out, took the opportunity to reposition the tray slightly and end up with 4 new bolts that would unscrew when needed.

Yeah mine has good size bolts. So I think I can find replacements and use the same holes.

CruizinDux · 07-11-2021, 07:31 AM

Yup, and I forgot to mention as part of "1) what AS used was much smaller," that was because what AS used was insufficient and now under recall....the real reason this all started.

I caught wind of the recall, asked the local AS dealer to correct. They took one look and said "all good". I double checked and two of the 4 were toast, already broken with the bolt heads held on by the paint.

JJTX · 07-11-2021, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

Yup, and I forgot to mention as part of "1) what AS used was much smaller," that was because what AS used was insufficient and now under recall....the real reason this all started.

I caught wind of the recall, asked the local AS dealer to correct. They took one look and said "all good". I double checked and two of the 4 were toast, already broken with the bolt heads held on by the paint.

Uh huh. Not surprised. Cheap as they can go, they will. The stupid spare tire bracket that holds it up in the front was welded on only one side on my 2018 and that was replaced under recall, most likely after it broke on someone causing a ton of damage.

Anyway, I hope the screws I got from fastenall works. So far I havent seen any suggestions on the bolts otherwise. But that said they do look pretty darn close. And worth a try at 3-4$.

JJTX · 07-12-2021, 11:07 AM

The screws I listed above fit the factory screw holes in my 2018 ( the upgrade from previous versions of course ) so I can confirm they are the same thread pitch and size for anyone else.

Very good to know these are the right ones!

I'm going to order some more, to keep them for future maintenance.

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/32417

CruizinDux · 07-12-2021, 11:48 AM

JJTX after reading the recall, I looked around town (Eugene then) and even the regularz go-to True Value could not match it. They suggested Fastenal brick and mortar. Bingo. Have been driving by the store on a regular basis and just didn't click. Good call on the Fastenal & back up.

JJTX · 07-12-2021, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruizinDux

JJTX after reading the recall, I looked around town (Eugene then) and even the regularz go-to True Value could not match it. They suggested Fastenal brick and mortar. Bingo. Have been driving by the store on a regular basis and just didn't click. Good call on the Fastenal & back up.

Yeah Fastenal has been my go-to for years. Especially hitch related bolts and locknuts with proper grade 8.

Some fastenal stores are orders-only though and dont allow walk-in. The one near me is this way however if you order and pickup in store they will do that.

Anything in big box stores HD or Lowes, are cheap china garbage.