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Old 01-27-2008, 11:12 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Vermont
Dear Folks,
I mean, does anybody else carry a 406 Mhz Satellite Emergency Locator Transmitter when they go fly fishing 100 yards from a public road? I back that up with a VHF radio about the size of a cigarette pack that has the aircraft emergency frequency pre-programmed. I can call any airplane within 5 miles overhead and also give a rescue helicopter my exact position in case the ELT's GPS signal is off by more than its specified 30-foot radius. Total cost: $925. Value in case of broken leg or heart attack: PRICELESS.
Actually I carry one (406 PLB) everywhere I go. Even in the airplane which has only a 121.5/246 ELT.

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Originally Posted by Pete Vermont
All ELT's are registered with NASA so they know WHO's is in distress and what your medical conditions are, as well as WHERE you are within 30-feet. An ELT or PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) weighs 14 oz. and the new 406 Mhz. models are picked up by a satellite within 10 minutes, whereas the old system might be picked up twice in 12 hours.
That is NOAA not NASA and the call will come from Scott AFB in Illinois.
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:42 AM   #22
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ocala , Florida
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My 'ol "Squaregosy" is set up from the factory for either 30 or 40lb (optional) tanks. I'am lucky,they even have gages mounted on 'em.
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Old 01-27-2008, 11:55 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArtStream
Just remember, the 30# aluminum tanks are taller than the 30# steel tanks.
Hey Artstream,your avatar is toooo cool!!! If they ever have a "best avatar" contest,ya got my vote!
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:43 AM   #24
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Threaded rod too short

We too are installing new 30# tanks. We're replacing the badly rusted steel 30# tanks that our trailer came with. As mentioned earlier in this thread the tie-down rod will be too short if you are upgrading from 20# tanks.

Well...we are changing from steel to Worthington aluminum and our tie-down rod is too short. Due to the over $600 investment in tanks I had hoped that we could buy one of Lewster's locks http://www.airforums.com/forums/f287...k-36720-2.html but as it is, I can only catch about two threads on the wing nut.

I once read about this situation in the forum before but I cannot find it. I used the search feature, I promise
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:50 AM   #25
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threaded rod coupler, McMaster Carr had them last time I checked
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Old 01-29-2008, 08:57 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovemy55
...I had hoped that we could buy one of Lewster's locks http://www.airforums.com/forums/f287...k-36720-2.html but as it is, I can only catch about two threads on the wing nut.
...
You can buy a rod coupler at Home Depot, as well as a length of threaded 3/8" (I think that's right) rod. You'll find out, however, that since you've got just a smidge of rod length available, when you put on the rod coupler, it will be too high. You'll need to cut something. I don't vouch for the mechanical properties of the generic HD rod, but if you use it, you should attach it at the bottom with bracketing nuts, rather than drill a hole through it. I've seen some posts where even the OEM rods tend to break right at that hole.

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Old 01-30-2008, 04:38 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovemy55
We too are installing new 30# tanks. We're replacing the badly rusted steel 30# tanks that our trailer came with. As mentioned earlier in this thread the tie-down rod will be too short if you are upgrading from 20# tanks.

Well...we are changing from steel to Worthington aluminum and our tie-down rod is too short. Due to the over $600 investment in tanks I had hoped that we could buy one of Lewster's locks http://www.airforums.com/forums/f287...k-36720-2.html but as it is, I can only catch about two threads on the wing nut.

I once read about this situation in the forum before but I cannot find it. I used the search feature, I promise
We use a simple aircraft cable and lock system to safegaurd our tanks.
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Old 01-30-2008, 05:02 AM   #28
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I ran into the same situation on my 75 TW when I switched to the aluminum tanks. I found that the shaft had another hole that worked perfectly for the tanks. Remove the pin at the bottom of the shaft, which is not easy to do. move the shaft to the next hole and install a new pin.
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:34 AM   #29
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Hopefully this is helpful to somebody else whos contemplating changing from rusty steel to shiny aluminum (taller) tanks, like we did. Our trailer is an 84 Sovereign and I found that it did not have the pin at the bottom like many others do:

I was fully prepared for the worst when I discovered that our tie-down rod was too short. I searched and found replacement threaded studs w/ tested strength ratings here: http://www.mcmaster.com/

Last night I crawled under our trailer to figure out how to attach a new, longer rod and weld on some bracketing nuts, (rather than drilling a hole through it.) I found that ours was attached at the frame via a rod coupling welded to a cross member on the tongue. The lower threads were run all the way down, through the rod coupling. Threaded through the bottom end of the coupling were the 10 (rusty) threads I needed to attach the wing nut at the topside!

With some penetrating oil, a little heat, and the longest wrench I could find I double nutted the top threads and broke the rod free. I was able to raise the original rod so that the threads at the top were flush with the top of the wing nut, while keeping all of the threads in the rod coupling that is welded to the frame at the bottom. (I added a nut at the bottom to keep the whole thing from spinning.)

I dont have any spare threads to use one of Lewster's locks, as I originally planned, but will use a cable like rickandsandi.
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