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Old 02-23-2024, 02:31 PM   #1
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Hot water heater kills cooktop burner

My 2022 Globetrotter 23 FBT has the on-demand hot water heater. (It's awful, but that's been the subject of lots of threads already.) It seems to have a new problem.

When I run hot water while a burner on the cooktop is burning, the water heater seems to kill or greatly reduce gas to the cook top which extinguishes the burner. I'm sure this didn't used to happen.

I thought maybe the LP tank was low, so I switched to a full tank - same result.

Anyone else notice this?

Anyone have any suggestions?

Karl
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Old 02-23-2024, 02:41 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by kmrice View Post
My 2022 Globetrotter 23 FBT has the on-demand hot water heater. (It's awful, but that's been the subject of lots of threads already.) It seems to have a new problem.

When I run hot water while a burner on the cooktop is burning, the water heater seems to kill or greatly reduce gas to the cook top which extinguishes the burner. I'm sure this didn't used to happen.

I thought maybe the LP tank was low, so I switched to a full tank - same result.

Anyone else notice this?

Anyone have any suggestions?

Karl
Check system pressure with a manometer (tube/water home made or electronic version from Amazon) while 1/2 of your gas appliances are running, it should not drop below 11" of water column.
Reasons for unacceptable pressure drop can be
1. flow restriction due to contamination/liquids trapped in a low spot of the propane system (more common than you might think)
2. faulty main regulator
3. faulty cook top regulator (many cook tops are equipped with an additional regulator)
4. regulator in need of adjustment, but before adjusting check #1 first so you do not end up fixing a symptom instead of the problem.

Manometer I bought in 2022 and can attest that it is spot on. You can test thru fridge test port or BBQ quick connect if equipped, although you will need to put together an adapter in each case. https://www.amazon.com/Manometer-RIS..._id=5006565011
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Old 02-23-2024, 05:31 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by ITSNO60 View Post
Check system pressure with a manometer (tube/water home made or electronic version from Amazon) while 1/2 of your gas appliances are running, it should not drop below 11" of water column.
Reasons for unacceptable pressure drop can be
1. flow restriction due to contamination/liquids trapped in a low spot of the propane system (more common than you might think)
2. faulty main regulator
3. faulty cook top regulator (many cook tops are equipped with an additional regulator)
4. regulator in need of adjustment, but before adjusting check #1 first so you do not end up fixing a symptom instead of the problem.

Manometer I bought in 2022 and can attest that it is spot on. You can test thru fridge test port or BBQ quick connect if equipped, although you will need to put together an adapter in each case. https://www.amazon.com/Manometer-RIS..._id=5006565011
You missed flow restriction due to a partially crushed propane line, they are attached to the bottom of the trailer and exposed to possible road debris.
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Old 02-24-2024, 06:24 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Wazbro View Post
You missed flow restriction due to a partially crushed propane line, they are attached to the bottom of the trailer and exposed to possible road debris.
I also had the propane hose to the furnace (behind cabinets) kink so that the furnace would blow air but no heat. But the biggest headache was the hot water output temperature suddenly started to decrease from the set temperature. The girard water heater was firing up but not getting to the set temperature. After a LOT of anguish, I opened the tiny regulating screw on propane tank regulator and things are back to normal.
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Old 02-24-2024, 08:59 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by ITSNO60 View Post
Manometer I bought in 2022 and can attest that it is spot on. You can test thru fridge test port or BBQ quick connect if equipped, although you will need to put together an adapter in each case.
Thanks so much. I was thinking this was yet another issue with the Girard; sounds like the problem may be elsewhere. Do you have any advice as to how I would put together an adapter? Actually, I'm not sure I understand what you mean by an adaptor. Or, is there somewhere else to test which would not require one? My fridge is all electric, so there would not be a test port there. I do have the BBQ quick connect.

Thanks again.

Karl
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Old 02-24-2024, 09:00 AM   #6
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You missed flow restriction due to a partially crushed propane line, they are attached to the bottom of the trailer and exposed to possible road debris.
Thanks. Will crawl under and see if I see anything.

Karl
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Old 02-24-2024, 09:03 AM   #7
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After a LOT of anguish, I opened the tiny regulating screw on propane tank regulator and things are back to normal.
Thanks. I'll think about that, but I guess I have to be careful I don't do what ITSNO60 refers to as "fixing a symptom instead of the problem."
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Old 02-24-2024, 10:01 AM   #8
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I m pretty sure you have a regulator problem. My Fridge wouldn't light. I got full propane 11 inches wc on my gauge at the fridge til it fired up and pressure dropped to an inch or so. New regulator solved the problem. Your hot water heater is likely not getting full pressure either
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Old 02-24-2024, 10:56 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by kmrice View Post
Thanks so much. I was thinking this was yet another issue with the Girard; sounds like the problem may be elsewhere. Do you have any advice as to how I would put together an adapter? Actually, I'm not sure I understand what you mean by an adaptor. Or, is there somewhere else to test which would not require one? My fridge is all electric, so there would not be a test port there. I do have the BBQ quick connect.

Thanks again.

Karl
You would purchase a male LP quick connect fitting. They come with male or female threads on the other end to which you would attach a small nipple to fit the test hose. Depending on the availability of the nipple configuration you may need an additional part. I would obtain the male LP QD first then visit your hardware store with the QD and the test hose to have them help you put the rest together.

Pictured below is my adapter, a male LP QD with male 1/4 NPT threads on the other end mated to a 1/4" NPT coupling into which a barbed fitting with 1/4" NPT threads is screwed. The little silver nipple in the bag came with my tester and may have worked but I already have lots of these fittings around.

The correct troubleshooting sequence here would be to visually inspect everything first before moving on to pressure testing and parts replacements. Sure you can jump ahead and start replacing stuff and get lucky but just sharing how a professional would proceed.

Also, if you build an adapter, be very careful not to let any bits of thread tape get into the line as they can plug some of the tiny orifices in the system. Start the tape a couple of threads back from the end.
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Old 02-25-2024, 07:36 AM   #10
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What regulator?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JCWDCW View Post
I m pretty sure you have a regulator problem. My Fridge wouldn't light. I got full propane 11 inches wc on my gauge at the fridge til it fired up and pressure dropped to an inch or so. New regulator solved the problem. Your hot water heater is likely not getting full pressure either
Thanks. Are you referring to the regulator at the LP tanks, or separate regulator on an appliance? (That's may be a stupid question; please forgive my ignorance about all things LP.)
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Old 02-25-2024, 07:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ITSNO60 View Post
You would purchase a male LP quick connect fitting. They come with male or female threads on the other end to which you would attach a small nipple to fit the test hose. Depending on the availability of the nipple configuration you may need an additional part. I would obtain the male LP QD first then visit your hardware store with the QD and the test hose to have them help you put the rest together.

Pictured below is my adapter, a male LP QD with male 1/4 NPT threads on the other end mated to a 1/4" NPT coupling into which a barbed fitting with 1/4" NPT threads is screwed. The little silver nipple in the bag came with my tester and may have worked but I already have lots of these fittings around.

The correct troubleshooting sequence here would be to visually inspect everything first before moving on to pressure testing and parts replacements. Sure you can jump ahead and start replacing stuff and get lucky but just sharing how a professional would proceed.

Also, if you build an adapter, be very careful not to let any bits of thread tape get into the line as they can plug some of the tiny orifices in the system. Start the tape a couple of threads back from the end.
Thanks. Just what I needed - will get the manometer you suggested and go to the hardware store to get parts for an adaptor.

Your advice to visually inspect is appreciated. I'm not sure how accessible the LP lines are in parts of my Airstream but will see if I can trace them. I will keep your earlier advice about not solving the symptom rather than the problem in mind.

I very much appreciate the help of everyone who has give me advice. What a great forum this is!
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Old 03-01-2024, 09:40 AM   #12
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Which port?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ITSNO60 View Post
Manometer I bought in 2022 and can attest that it is spot on. You can test thru fridge test port or BBQ quick connect if equipped, although you will need to put together an adapter in each case.
One more question: I got the manometer you suggested. Found a couple of videos on using manometers. In the videos, the manometers they use have two ports, P1 and P2. They connect the manometer to the P1 port to do the pressure tests. The Risepo Manometer has two ports but they are labeled - and +. Which is the one I should connect my gas line to?

Thanks for your help.

Karl
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Old 03-05-2024, 04:07 PM   #13
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Today I received the adaptor I ordered to connect the RisePro manometer to my BBQ quick connect. If I am using the manometer correctly, it shows 11" when no appliances are running and drops to 10.8 when all three burners on the stove are on. Is this a significant drop? I haven't found anyplace where the lp lines are crimped.
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Old 03-05-2024, 04:20 PM   #14
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Sorry I missed your earlier post, you use the + port for pressure and the - for vacuum.

The pressure should not drop below 11" with a 50% load on the system. What happens to the pressure when the stove is on and the water heater fires up?

11" may be a bit low when nothing is on and it most likely takes a dive when the WH starts. You may need a regulator replacement or adjustment. If the regulator shows any signs of liquid in it I would replace it. Often the oil from the LP condenses in the regulator and in my case it settled in a low spot of one of the rubber lines eventually creating a restriction resulting in a pressure drop.

My pressure is over 12 with nothing on and doesn't go below 11" with stove and water heater on, if I recall I bumped the regulator up just a little so I think I have around 11.5" with 2 things running. Somewhere I have a video of what the stove burners look like when the pressure is just high enough for maximum flame, if you go too high you will start to see yellow and hear roaring.
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Old 03-06-2024, 07:55 AM   #15
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I found my numbers, I have 13.5" with everything off (known as regulator lock up). With my fridge on gas, WH heating water (tank style 6 gal) and both stove burners on high I have 12". Next I turned on only the cooktop to make sure my pressure wasn't too high when everything else was off, in the video you can see it is just about as high as you would want it, strong and clean with occasional slight wisps of yellow/orange when on high and a quiet, even roar. (An expert on propane systems looked at the video and approved)

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Old 03-06-2024, 11:32 AM   #16
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I set mine to 11,with the furnace, wh, and fridge on. That put it just about at 13.5 with all off.
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Old 03-08-2024, 12:16 PM   #17
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Thanks for the data, Brian and Rich. I tested the gas pressure. With nothing on, I showed 12.18. With the furnace on, I showed 10.67. With the furnace and three burners on the stove on, showed 9.95.

I wasn't able to test with the hot water heater on (It's a Girard and I initially suspected was the problem) because the trailer is winterized.

Seems like I have low pressure. I can't find any crimps in the lines, so I'm suspecting it is the regulator. I have an appointment next week to have the trailer serviced, and will have them see if the regulator needs adjustment or replacement.

Thanks again for all your help. This forum sure is great.

Karl
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Old 03-12-2024, 03:25 PM   #18
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Problem solved! Regulator needed adjustment.

Our dealer checked it out. The system held LP pressure but it was too low. They found no obstructions so they adjusted the regulator. Everything seems fine now.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Karl
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Old 03-12-2024, 05:06 PM   #19
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Our dealer checked it out. The system held LP pressure but it was too low. They found no obstructions so they adjusted the regulator. Everything seems fine now.

Thanks for everyone's help!

Karl
Great! And now you have the tool and the knowledge to troubleshoot it again if ever needed!
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