Help -Propane stove has no gas.

[MaGordon]

Help, Please?
I recently purchased a 2006 Bambi 16 CCd International (Yea..)

As part of the testing for all the appliances and function before going camping next week, I have successfully tested most appliances, but the stove is not working at all.

Status: There does not seem to be propose pressure reaching the Stove at all, even though the propane is full, turned on, and other gas appliances work. I have tried this at length, so its not air in the lines.

Facts:
1) I bought it from a re-seller who stated that they had it working.
2) the electric igniter works, but I am using a firestick just in case
3) turning the knobs, I hear no sound of gas flowing.
4) The gas furnace ignites and runs well at length (30 mins)
5) I have removed the top of the stove burners and I can see the orifice, no gas is flowing from them. I tried a match on top, and I can see there is no air... -i.e. the flame does not flicker.
6) I removed the orifice and see the hole- no blockage. I turned on the gas and there is no gas flowing.
7) I am getting just a bit frustrated......

I would love to work backwards down the supply line, but there are no diagrams for the propane line that I can find (lots of plumbing diagrams online, 100's) I removed the side covers and can follow the copper lines for the fridge and stove down to the floor, but from underneath there are just four copper line splitting off of the main line and entering the belly, and I don't know which is which. Any guidance?

Also anyone know how to remove the stove? the fridge is underneath, and the side access panels show me just a piece of wood.

Thanks in advance for any help.
Mark

[MaGordon]

To help with any identification of the lines, I took a photo of the underneath of the Bambi, and labeled the source and the four lines which enter the belly.

The photo is from the side, looking across the Bambi at the other side, with the front towards the left.

[Adventure.AS]

It looks like the protective shields have been removed from the propane lines. Often they are run through pex for shields.

[TG Twinkie]

Are you sure there is not a valve under the stove top to shut the gas off?

[MaGordon]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Are you sure there is not a valve under the stove top to shut the gas off?

I looked everywhere and could not find one.

Specifically, I opened the access panels, and followed the copper tubing from the floor to where it entered the wood panel under the cooktop- it was solid. no kinks and no valves.

Also, this is a 2006, so no PEX tubing around the copper. That came later.

[MaGordon]

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

It looks like the protective shields have been removed from the propane lines. Often they are run through pex for shields.

Yes, there is no pex protections. This is a 2006, pex was used later. (I read on these forums it was about 2011)

[Al and Missy]

Have you raised the panel around the burners to look at the internal plumbing of the cooktop?

Al

[crozsr]

Did you push the knob in to light the burner? Turn knob to light, push knob in, push igniter to light.

[Sdmezurek]

Our 1970 had to be completely level all the way around before the propane would work for the stove, oven and refrigerator and furnace...

[Wyo Silver]

If it is like our 2004, you have to push down on the knob to get the gas to flow.

[TG Twinkie]

I don't see any reason the trailer would have to be level for propane devices to work.
Propane is a gas. What would level have to do with the flow of gas.
The refer must be close to level due to the way the ammonia driven cooling system works.

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by wyo

If it is like our 2004, you have to push down on the knob to get the gas to flow.

Yep. I woulda said "push IN" but that IS the trick.

[MaGordon]

Originally Posted by wyo

If it is like our 2004, you have to push down on the knob to get the gas to flow.

SUCCESS! Thanks all.

It turns out that I had been pushing down on the knob, but I had to leave the igniter going for over two minutes before the propane would start flowing.

I found that there is a magnetic safety switch to make sure that propane would not flow without the igniter going. Therefore, I pushed the igniter down and let it 'Click" for just under 2 minutes and then the propane started and the burner lit.

So, my lesson is that trying to light it with a match was exactly the wrong thing to do- you have to use the electronic igniter.

Mark