Drilling new hole for gas line

[sarasafari]

I have put in a new refer and it is protruding from the wall a couple of inches too far because the gas line comes up through a hole in the floor which prevents me from scooting the refer closer too the wall. The old refer was smaller, so the gas line was at the right spot. Is there any problem in drilling a new hole in the floor a couple of inches closer to the wall and pulling the gas line through the new hole? It wouldn't compromise the gas line (I don't think), just give me more space to move the refer back. Any problems you can foresee? Thanks!

[idroba]

I have done that when I replaced the refrigerator in the Argosy. No big deal, and I had no issues. Can't imagine you would either.

[dznf0g]

Nope, just make sure you have no sharp bends in the line and protect for any rubbing (grommets through metal) etc.

[sarasafari]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Nope, just make sure you have no sharp bends in the line and protect for any rubbing (grommets through metal) etc.

I just had the (crimped) copper line replaced with a flexible metal one, so I should be good on that. Thanks for your reply!

[idroba]

Originally Posted by sarasafari

I just had the (crimped) copper line replaced with a flexible metal one, so I should be good on that. Thanks for your reply!

The flexible metal "appliance connector lines" that are sold in places like Home Depot are not suitable for RV use. Here is something Lewster said in a post he made:

"There have been many questions about using metallic flex pipe like when connecting a domestic water heater or stove in a house, but these ARE NOT RATED for RV use and should be avoided. Do it right he first time and you won't have any problems down the road."

The corregated stainless steel lines now being used for main gas piping in homes and businesses are not the same thing as the "appliance connectors" which we see available in hardware stores. It is the appliance connectors that I am writing about here.

[sarasafari]

Originally Posted by idroba

The flexible metal "appliance connector lines" that are sold in places like Home Depot are not suitable for RV use. Here is something Lewster said in a post he made:

"There have been many questions about using metallic flex pipe like when connecting a domestic water heater or stove in a house, but these ARE NOT RATED for RV use and should be avoided. Do it right he first time and you won't have any problems down the road."

The corregated stainless steel lines now being used for main gas piping in homes and businesses are not the same thing as the "appliance connectors" which we see available in hardware stores. It is the appliance connectors that I am writing about here.

I thought I had read that on here somewhere, so I had a plumber come out and install the line. I told them that I thought that it should be copper (having read that somewhere on this forum ), but he said the flexible metal would be fine, and would be better since it wouldn't kink like the copper one did.
Should I have them come back and put in copper? What is the problem with the flexible metal?

[dznf0g]

I believe it depends on what he actually used. The "appliance connectors" are not designed for the kind of constant vibrations of road travel and can become brittle over time when constantly flexed, as I understand it.

[idroba]

Again, the "appliance connectors" are not rated for RV use and vibration. You will not find them on new RV's in spite of the fact that they would make factory production easier.

Your plumber probably has no idea, just uses what he uses in a home, where they are fine.

Copper can be a pain to run, but it is what should be used.

[drboyd]

First of all, you can buy the copper for like a buck a foot (or so) and a couple of flare nuts for a couple bucks each, and a flaring tool for $19.95 at Home Depot. I'll betcha the plumber would charge more than that.

Flaring is very easy - I just bought the tool and watched a couple of youtube videos on it.

One of the things the previous owner did (or some previous installer) was to slide a chunk of rubber heater hose over the outside of the tubing all the way up from the grommet where it came up into the floor plan to half an inch above the floor. That way you know it's not rubbing on anything too interesting.

[barts]

Originally Posted by drboyd

One of the things the previous owner did (or some previous installer) was to slide a chunk of rubber heater hose over the outside of the tubing all the way up from the grommet where it came up into the floor plan to half an inch above the floor. That way you know it's not rubbing on anything too interesting.

Our '71 had this from the factory. Works well and is easy to do.

- Bart

[sarasafari]

Originally Posted by idroba

Again, the "appliance connectors" are not rated for RV use and vibration. You will not find them on new RV's in spite of the fact that they would make factory production easier.

Your plumber probably has no idea, just uses what he uses in a home, where they are fine.

Copper can be a pain to run, but it is what should be used.

I think you're right that the plumber didn't know. I will redo with lp grade copper while everything is still taken apart. Thanks to all