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Old 07-10-2013, 02:46 PM   #1
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Connecting gas range

I've scored my new Seaward range and am going to install it this weekend. I can do flexible copper with a flared fitting as the old range was, but I'm wondering if there is some kind flexible gas appliance hose that is okay to use in an RV- it would make the install a little simpler. Thanks
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:43 AM   #2
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I am sure that you could use one of those yellow flex gas lines but the issue, as I understand it, is that you want all connections to be outside of the trailer. In case there is a leak, it will dissipate on the exterior as opposed to filling the trailer.

Anyone else?
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:58 AM   #3
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Isn't the last connection made right at the stove? That would shoot a hole in your hypothesis, as good as it was.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:02 AM   #4
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That would shoot a hole in your hypothesis, as good as it was.
Not really. If you trace all of the propane lines, you'll probably find that there are no joints inside the Airstream; every "T" or joint is outside. The only connection inside is right at the appliance, and from the appliance to the floor penetration is all one piece of tubing.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:43 AM   #5
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The flexible yellow gas lines are not made for the vibration of a trailer and are not approved or legal in them. They are for occasional movement of an appliance in a home situation.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:57 AM   #6
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How do they account for the movement in the propane line on boats when the range is in a gimballed setup? I believe that they use a flexible hose.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:12 AM   #7
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How do they account for the movement in the propane line on boats when the range is in a gimballed setup? I believe that they use a flexible hose.
American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) standards are not quite the same as Recreational Vehicle Industry Association (RVIA) standards.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:14 AM   #8
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How do they account for the movement in the propane line on boats when the range is in a gimballed setup? I believe that they use a flexible hose.
Yup, it is LP rated hose not hard pipe.
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:56 PM   #9
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Isn't the last connection made right at the stove? That would shoot a hole in your hypothesis, as good as it was.
My point was simply to minimize any connections inside of the trailer. Of course there will be a connection at the appliance. Just make sure it is damn good... And have an LP gas alarm.
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Old 07-14-2013, 03:35 PM   #10
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After I posted this, I looked online and found that the only way was to use copper and flare fittings.. the only way that I could find. So, that's what I did, got to use my flare-maker, tested the heck out of it. There are three connections, two at the valve and one at the range. Now I'm wondering if I should have put the valve under the coach and just had a straight shot to the range?
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:06 PM   #11
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Where did you put the valve? Inside the living space? That is a no no. All valves should be under the trailer on the exterior. From what I understand, it is just a safety issue.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:10 PM   #12
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Ah, okay. In residences, we have to put the shut off near the range, and I did that with this, accessible under the sink. The previous setup had the same connections, a reducer from half to 3/8" and then into the range, but the old range had the valve under the cooktop.
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:24 PM   #13
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Ah, okay. In residences, we have to put the shut off near the range, and I did that with this, accessible under the sink. The previous setup had the same connections, a reducer from half to 3/8" and then into the range, but the old range had the valve under the cooktop.
The shutoff is at the propane tanks. Why add another? Years ago I added a water heater to my tent trailer. I "T-eed" off of the existing propane line under the trailer and ran a flexible copper tube to the heater. I used flair fitting everywhere and the old flaring tool that my grandfather left me worked like a champ. I found that "flexible" copper isn't really all that flexible. You have to be very careful with this stuff. You can only bend it so many times.
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Old 07-14-2013, 05:47 PM   #14
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I added a valve under the trailer to each appliance so that I can troubleshoot any future leaks by just running gas to each appliance seperately.
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Old 07-14-2013, 06:39 PM   #15
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Peter, you could always splice in another shutoff in the line outside the trailer so that you don't undo all the work that you've already done. I believe that both my range and furnace ran off the same propane line which had a shutoff on the outside of the trailer, however, the furnace had a shutoff at the appliance as well. This made sense to me, because the furnace could be shut off during the warmer months without interrupting the flow of propane to the range.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:27 PM   #16
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The trailer has a valve at each appliance- most are under the trailer, they are the originals. The fridge has one accessible inside the access door. The old range had one built in, under the cook top. I talked to a tech guy at Seward and they said to put it at the range, not underneath. I understand not wanting to have fittings buried inside the trailer. I would never install a fixture, plumbing or gas, without a shutoff.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:29 PM   #17
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Hey Cameron, I thought the issue was having additional fittings inside the trailer that could jiggle apart over time or something. I'd kind of rather avoid having another valve under the coach because it's vulnerable to moisture. I could splice in another valve, true, maybe I should? I actually have an extra...
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