Circuit board for furnace

[HiJoeSilver]

"Too bad, so sad, he should have worked on the trailer earlier this summer.But he says he gets better access without the trailer to camp nearer his hunting grounds." feel the sympathy!

Unfortunately the sail switch is accessed from the area where the blower wheel is. The end that's not normally accessible.

[featherbedder]

Originally Posted by BAB

I'm sure models vary, but virtually all of the "things that can go wrong with a furnace" are accessible from the exterior panel. I had a bad board in my Classic. The guys at ODM (my dealer) had a testing outfit that they plugged into my board. It was "INOP" -- new boarding all goes well. BTW, the sail switch as well as the ignitor unit can be accessed almost as easily as the board itself.

Vintage AS furnace boards etc only from inside front, out side no can do as only exhaust port out side. Bill

[BessieB]

So we have identified the sail switch. Bought a new circuit board but it made no difference. Original back in. So now that we have identified the sail switch, what is the next trouble shoot step? Furnace will not ignite.

[Al and Missy]

First, make sure it is the sail switch. I am having a no-light situation too. Reset the furnace by turning it off and back on with the switch in the furnace (if it has one). Then turn the thermostat up until the blower kicks on. A few seconds later you should hear a click as the gas valve opens and you should smell gas in the exhaust. If no click, or no gas smell it can be the sail switch, the gas valve or the control board. Since you have changed the board, we know that is not it. If you don't hear the click, use a meter or a test light to ensure that the control board is telling the valve to open. If not, change the sail switch. If the control board is sending voltage to the gas valve, change the valve.

Al

[enon woods]

The Attwood heater in my '15 25FC went out in the middle of the night two nights ago. Woke up at 3AM with inside temp at 40 degrees! We had 6" of snow and 27 degrees that night in Monticello UT. Light on board was flashing a code that indicated either the sail or high limit switches were open. Turned out it was the high limit. Couldnt find any repair service within 100 miles. Found part available online and had it quick shipped to Hanksville UT campground and installed it yesterday. All toasty now. Bought an extra switch for spare. Now if I can get the gas side of the HWH to work!

[BessieB]

Our trailer doesn't talk to us. so further investigation.

[Mike1997]

Over the last two years of my ownership, 3 of the gas appliances (furnace, water heater, and frig) stopped working. Partly due to age I suppose and partly due to non use....rig was in storage over 12 years with limited use. In each case the control module was the problem. Once replaced with a Dinosor control module, everything is back to normal.

[cwf]

Originally Posted by mike1997

over the last two years of my ownership, 3 of the gas appliances (furnace, water heater, and frig) stopped working. Partly due to age i suppose and partly due to non use....rig was in storage over 12 years with limited use. In each case the control module was the problem. Once replaced with a dinosor control module, everything is back to normal.

^ ++++++++ ,%>

[Steamy1]

I'll offer my tale of a furnace not working.

The blower fan would come on but it would not ignite. so I replaced the board with a Dinosaur, which I was planning on doing anyway as I was told it is much more reliable over time. while doing this, I decided to go ahead and pull the furnace out completely and clean out all of the metal shavings left by Airstream. I also cleaned the sail switch.

I put everything back together and it still would not work.

as a final effort, I had read on the forum somewhere about a technique to try. I turned on the thermostat, which started the blower fan. I then went out side to the furnace exhaust port, waited until I heard the igniter, the just briefly placed the palm of my hand over the exhaust to block the air and it ignited!

It has worked perfectly ever since.

I'm not sure what the problem was or why this worked, other than speculating that blocking the air flow (again, just for aa second) compressed the air flow, which increased the oxygen which promoted the ignition of the flame. Once ignited, it may have burned off any contaminants or particles that may have been preventing the combustion.

I know this is described in the forum in one of the threads, as that is how I learned about it.

[BessieB]

What is the control Module?