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Old 01-20-2007, 06:54 PM   #1
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Are LP regulators adjustable?

Just hooked up a propane new tank to my trailer after 15 or so years of storage and discovered that there is very low pressure in the system despite a full tank. All of the gas appliances work, (well, I have not tried the furnace yet) but there is very little gas flow. The burners on the stove barely stay lit, and the propane lamps burn dimly. The common denominators are the LP regulator and the main supply line. I can't find a leak anywhere so I am assuming a restriction. Where would be the best place tp start looking? Is there an adjustment screw or something like it on the regulator to increase the flow rate?
thanks,
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Old 01-20-2007, 07:22 PM   #2
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I have never seen an adjustable regulator, they are preset for pressure not flow. I would ckeck for restrictions caused by a breakdown of the rubber lines that go to and from the regulator. I had the same issue on a popup years ago and I wound up blowing the lines out with compressed air. The copper line in the trailer had alot of pieces of rubber in the line. If the lines are clear, replace the regulator.
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Old 01-20-2007, 07:24 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gparker
Just hooked up a propane new tank to my trailer after 15 or so years of storage and discovered that there is very low pressure in the system despite a full tank. All of the gas appliances work, (well, I have not tried the furnace yet) but there is very little gas flow. The burners on the stove barely stay lit, and the propane lamps burn dimly. The common denominators are the LP regulator and the main supply line. I can't find a leak anywhere so I am assuming a restriction. Where would be the best place tp start looking? Is there an adjustment screw or something like it on the regulator to increase the flow rate?
thanks,
Greg
Greg,
First thing is to make sure no spiders have built webs in the various orifices of the regulator and regulator hoses. Personally I would consider replacing the regulator and the hoses leading to it. Yes regulators can be adjusted but you need to have a meter and know what you are doing. And with a regulator that old and having sat for that many years you don't really know what the condition of the interior components is.

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Old 01-20-2007, 07:41 PM   #4
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An old regulator can have a bad diaphragm which can cause a pressure drop. You can check it with a simple home made instrument, a manometer. It is a U attached to a board with clear tubing partially filled with water. One end is connected to the gas, the other open. This measures water column pressure. When you turn the gas on there will be a difference in the water levels on each side. A good regulator should give you about 11" difference. If you want to get fancy, put some dye in the water.
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Old 01-21-2007, 06:47 PM   #5
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When blowing out the lines would you start at the rear-most fixture and work forward? Would you start at the fixture or just the feed line?
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Old 01-22-2007, 08:59 AM   #6
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Opd

I had a similar problem, low flow that would run the central heat or the water heater but not both. It was the old nipple/new OPD tank not playing together well. The new OPD valves have a shutoff inside that the hose nipple must depress to open the flow. My old nipple was barely long enough to crack the shutoff and get minimum flow started. I was lucky and able to swap places with the two tanks and get a combination that works otherwise I'd be buying new style fittings.
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Old 01-22-2007, 09:51 AM   #7
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Greetings Greg-

If in fact the system has not been used in 15 years there are a few things I would do first before hooking up to a tank and firing up appliance. First I would hook compressed air to the system at 30# and check all connections and fitting for leaks with soap-water. Next I would clean out and inspect all flow areas and orifaces for obstructions and clutter and any fire hazards. A unit 15 years old, I would replace the regulator no questions asked.
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Old 01-22-2007, 10:18 AM   #8
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The direction to clean the line isn't as important as making certain that you do not force trash in the line to any of the orifices. I would disconnect all the lines before I started blowing them out. Take your time and all should go well. Have the regulator checked to be certain that it is giving the desired pressure as well as flow.
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Old 01-22-2007, 01:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gparker
Just hooked up a propane new tank to my trailer after 15 or so years of storage and discovered that there is very low pressure in the system despite a full tank. All of the gas appliances work, (well, I have not tried the furnace yet) but there is very little gas flow. The burners on the stove barely stay lit, and the propane lamps burn dimly. The common denominators are the LP regulator and the main supply line. I can't find a leak anywhere so I am assuming a restriction. Where would be the best place tp start looking? Is there an adjustment screw or something like it on the regulator to increase the flow rate?
thanks,
Greg
The original Fischer LPG regulators can be adjusted to change the pressure, not the flow.

Remove the "Hex" nut at the bottom of the regulator.

You will find a slot in a large nut, that can easily be turned. Turning it in, increases the pressure.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to change the pressure without using a manometer.

The correct pressure should be between 11 and 13 inches of water column pressure, closer to 12" to 12.5" is ideal.

Andy
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Old 01-22-2007, 01:51 PM   #10
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The original Fischer LPG regulators can be adjusted to change the pressure, not the flow.

Remove the "Hex" nut at the bottom of the regulator.

You will find a slot in a large nut, that can easily be turned. Turning it in, increases the pressure.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to change the pressure without using a manometer.

The correct pressure should be between 11 and 13 inches of water column pressure, closer to 12" to 12.5" is ideal.

Andy
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