Acceptable propane leakdown rate?

[Jabba]

I've soap bubbled all the connections I can on our rig and tightened any leaks I've found (there was a good one at the regulator). I read that by opening the bottles, pressurizing the system, shutting them off and monitoring the indicator gauge is another way of detecting leaks. I don't have a Manometer. The indicator will show pressure for @ 45 minutes, before showing a loss. Is this acceptable given I'm dealing with 48 year old valving? I detect no gas odors anywhere. I read that a loss of 1/2" water column over 20 minutes (when using a manometer) is acceptable. Any input on this?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Jason.
A 10 to 15 minute bleed down from a reduced pressure is acceptable.

A reduced pressure is about 7 to 8 inches of water column pressure.

That's accomplished by hooking up a manometer to a stove burner valve. Bleed some of the pressure off by opening another stover valve, down to the 7 or 8 inches. That places the system in a very sensitive area. It is this area that allows the 10 to 15 minutes.

A fully pressurized system that takes 45 minutes is probably indicating an excessive leak.

Look for a pilot light being on, but no flame. If those are off, then another area to look for is the water heater and furnace valves shutting off, 100 percent. If one of those valves leaks at all, it must be replaced. It is indicating a more severe leak in the future. When? Who knows.

LPG should be treated with more respect than dynamite. It can hurt, maim and kill, with little or no notice.

A manometer can easily be made with a section of clear plastic hose.

Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
airstreamcandy.com

[Jabba]

Andy, Thanks for replying. I will see about making a manometer tomorrow and apply your approach. If I do detect a bleed down, what would be the easiest way to diagnose if the furnace or reefer valves are leaking by? (I have the original electric only hot water heater, how rare is that?)

Thanks Again for your help and knowledge!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Jason.
Process of elimination always works.

If you find either one to leak, prepare yourself that repair parts for those old units, don't exist.

Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
airstreamcandy.com

[Jabba]

Got my fingers crossed that there won't be valve problems especially on the stove, my wife loves it! Thanks again!

[JPAIRSTREAM]

I will attach forms on the proper process on LP gas checks.

LP is very dangerous and should not be taken lightly. Please test this and make the proper corrections.

This will have to be on two seperate post.

[JPAIRSTREAM]

I will attach forms on the proper process on LP gas checks.

LP is very dangerous and should not be taken lightly. Please test this and make the proper corrections.

second of a two series post.

[Jabba]

24 hours and still holding pressure! I pulled the grates and drip trays out of the Robert Shaw stove and found a pretty good leak where the copper line connects to the black pipe in the stove. The pipe dope had dried from the heat and started leaking. I also found the pilot (thanks for the tip Andy) and cinched down the screw that is the "valve" to control it. I think I will just cap it to be on the safe side. If she's still holding tomorrow, I'm calling it good.