About to order new propane regulator.

[crazylev]

OK. Finally getting around to doing this.

I'm changing out my 16 year old auto changeover regulator due to issues I've been having.

I am ordering the Marshall Excelssior MEGR 253(P), a set of 12" Shinestar stainless steel 1/4" male flare pigtails, and a 48" MER-610 thermoplastic 3/8" hose.

https://www.amazon.com/Marshall-Exce.../dp/B016VAQTE8

So my question is if I need to get an adapter for the connection between that and the copper pipe that is situated just under the front frame?

I've attached a photo of my existing set up. I was told by Marshall that I need a 3/8" male flare to 3/8" male flare adapter. Can anyone confirm if the existing adapter is that adapter, or do I need to try and find this Part? Thanks for all the other threads that helped make this a bit easier.

[Ahroc]

Hi
I recently replaced my reg and the downstream hose going under the tongue. I ended up needing to replace the middle fitting in your picture also. We have a wonderfull Ace hardware locally which is where I got my brass fitting At this point in time I dont remember the sizes but it was an adapter fitting different on each side.
Good luck

[crazylev]

Thanks Ahroc.

The new hose I have has a 3/8" female flare. So that is half the mystery. I just need to know what type/size fitting that attaches to the hard (copper?) connector.

I know that it is female. But I don't know if it is flare, some sort of compression, or other. And I don't know size.

I'd like to have all parts on hand when doing the change over so if anyone has an idea, that would be great.

I'd also be willing to buy a few different types if I at least knew the size.

The tech support mentioned I might need a 3/8" male flare to 3/8" male flare adapter. Just trying to get close.

And Airstreams product records only go back to 2006 I was told.

Thanks.

[Dingo Girl]

I just did my propane system.
3/8 & i beleive 1/2 for the main line that the others branch off of.
Mine is a 67.
I can check tonight to be sure

[crazylev]

Thanks Dingo Girl!

My unit is a 2003. I am thinking that the only way to figure this out is to remove that fitting.

Maybe I'll get really lucky and discover that when I remove the old rubber supply line that it is 3/8" male flare and all I have to do is attach new hose.

[Ahroc]

Hi
I'm pretty sure the copper pipe coming from under the trailer is 1/2" ID - 5/8" OD. I had to borrow a flair tool from a friend to make a new flair and I'm pretty sure the pipe OD was 5/8".

[rmkrum]

My 2007 also has 5/8 copper IIRC. Replaced my regulator hose and added some valves and a 3/8 Quick Disconnect for the generator. All the adapters were standard flare fittings from the local big box store.

Note: Do NOT use Teflon tape on flare fittings. It’s unnecessary and will screw up the fittings or shreds of it will find a place to cause maximum trouble.

Always check for leaks with a propane sniffer or soapy water, and do not over-tighten the fittings.

Snug and leak tight is enough. No need to get over tight, as the coupling nuts can split if too tight.

[crazylev]

Thanks guys. Went to Home Depot and bought 3 adapters:

3/8” male flare to 3/8” male flare
3/8” male flare to 1/2” male flare
4/8” male flare to 3/8” MIP- this one I suspect won’t be right.

I’m sure once I break the old connection apart, the answer will be obvious. And I wont have the right fitting.

Ahroc- I was curious why you had to re flare the pipe?

Rmkrum- I also heard that the only place to use tape is where hose connects to bottom of regulator. Can’t remember what that fitting type is called.

I was also informed that the pig tails from tanks (inverted male to regulator need no tape.

Any of you know if it’s ok to use the liquid sealer goop stuff on just the threads of flare fittings?

The reason I ask is it appears that AS used some sort of sealer as you can sort of see in my photo. In facy they used it on ALL the propane fittings.

[rmkrum]

Typically any flare fitting’s threads need to be dry. All mine were dry.

The only fittings that need yellow Teflon tape (for fuel use) are straight threads on pipes, adapters, and other pipe thread type fittings.

On the bottom of my regulator is a male pipe thread (MPT) to flare fitting that converts to the flare fittings on the hose. That has pipe dope on the straight threaded end only. The pigtails on mine are 1/4 inch male pipe thread. Yes, I was surprised at that.

Anyone local person to Corona/Riverside CA area need a couple FREE brand new pigtails with 1/8 inverted flare male ends? PM me. I won’t ship them.

The OEM pigtails threaded into the regulator had some pipe dope on them.

All the rest of my flare fitting nuts that i have disassembled on my Airstream are dry, as they should be.

My added piping for the Quick Disconnect plumbing is all straight pipe threads, and I carefully used yellow Teflon tape on those parts.

I shan’t comment on my uncanny ability to select the wrong diameter pipe fittings either. Don’t feel alone.

I had a great deal of “fun” finding the right bits and pieces for my Champion dual fuel inverter generator modifications for Quick Connect use. Still have some leftover ‘wrong size’ stuff. Murphy also says the packaging and receipt will vanish once you figure out the parts are wrong as well. Sigh.

The one weirdness I found was a flare to straight adapter jammed into the original propane hose flare fitting where it goes to the copper. Wrong part and I’m amazed it did not leak. The hose end fitting was all screwed up inside, and I bet some hulking plumbers helper used a big wrench to stop that leak. I eliminated that and the old hose as it was going brittle. New hose is 3/8 flare on both ends.

[rmkrum]

Also suggest covering your hose from the regulator to the copper line with corrugated split loom tubing to keep sunlight off the rubber. Route it away from sharp edges in the propane tank holder as well.

If you need to clamp anything, use the clamps with rubber inside and an aluminum strap. Helps prevent chafed tubing as well.

Big box and automobile parts stores should have the tubing and clamps in the electrical or hardware department. My split loom happens to be bright red.

[crazylev]

Thanks for that rmkrum.

About your 1/4” male inverted pigtails: this is what I bought and Marshall confirmed that those are in fact the correct ones that screw into the top of the regulator. Did yours leak? Again those going into the MEGR-253.

Great info on what is taped/sealed and what is not

[crazylev]

Hi.

In my picture above there is a clamp that holds line to frame. Do you know how to undo that clamp? Is it just a matter of drilling out a rivit? And what do you use to replace/reinstall clamp.

Just making sure I schlep right tools and supplies

[rmkrum]

Assuming it is riveted in place it’s probably a pop rivet that you can drill out and replace with a new one. It’s either 1/8 or 3/16 inch hole.

[crazylev]

Sorry it's taken me a while to get back here.

After a few faulty regulators, lost shipments, bad packing from Amazon I finally got one that was at least in one piece.

The install whenever well and was really easy as expected. Also as expected I had the wrong connector that goes between the end of the 3/8 female flair hose to the connection at the copper. Luckily there is a Home Depot very close to my AS.

The connector I needed was 5/8" male to 3/8" male flaired. Something HD didn't have. So I improvised using an additional fitting. See photo.

The pipe clamp I was referring to earlier was actually screwed into the A-frame, but was so badly rusted, the head just broke off. I have the line secured with several winds of copper wire temporarily until I figure out my next move on that.

Tested all appliances and everything works exactly how it used to. Yeah. No leaks as well. One issue I discovered today while camping is the green/red indicator is difficult to see with the propane cover on. My old regulator had a 360 degree view area. I'd also get a hose that goes from bottom of regulator to hard copper 8-10 inches shorter if possible. Had to kid of coil extra a bit underside.

I thought this would solve my issue with the ref ridge working inconsistently on propane. Sadly it did not. But I only had it running for a few hours before switching to AC. I REALLY need to test fridge by turning it on the day before leaving. Difficult because trailer is 25 miles away from where I live.

I also thought it would solve an issue I've been having with our oven sputtering for just a minute or two after pilot finally ignites burner. Again, it did not. But everything is working. Small miracles.

[Flostream66]

CrazyLev, thanks for starting this thread. I have used your input and the technical description provided by RMKRUM to guide the installation of my new LP system. It will be complete, and hopefully operational by Friday.

I did see your note about your refrigerator. Chances are, it is fine, and if it is a vintage Dometic, don't give up on it without a good fight. There are a number of threads that talk about the trailer needing to be level, the refrigerator needing at least a day to get cool, how to vent the coils, and how to vent the warm air out through the ceiling vent. I've just emerged from this information overload and from troubleshooting my own old Dometic...so if it is helpful to you, check out my resto, starting around Post #94 through the end.

The other "trick" that helped jump start my refrig was to turn it upside down...I know, WUH? It is called "burping the refrig" - here is a good post on it and my own humble admission that I tried it...https://www.airforums.com/forums/f42...es-215179.html

Good luck, and again, thanks for this thread on LP gas install.