New hitch bar needed?

[cactushead]

Hi all,

Finally traded '98 Grand Cherokee for '02 Dodge Ram 1500 Quad Cab. Definitely a better puller for the 19-foot Bambi/Safari. However, hitch height definitely needs adjustment. Existing Reese weight-distributing hitch (at lowest setting) rides trailer high in front. This utilizes Reese "T" bars, but the hitch bar itself has no identifying name or marks.

Any suggestions for upgrade which will drop ball lower? Anyone pulling with this or a similar combination? Have yet to drag everything to a level parking lot to disconnect and take measurements. Is the overall goal that the trailer ride perfectly level, when tow vehicle and camper are fully loaded? If so, I should be able to calculate how much lower to go than existing.

A similar looking product on Reese's web-site shows a rise of 6" and a drop of 1" (when used upside-down). This 1" drop appears to be what mine is set at. I'm guessing off-hand that I need to drop another 3-4". But before I order something expensive on-line, I thought I'd put it to the experts.

I'd rather keep my existing trunnion bars and ball mount, and just upgrade the hitch bar if possible. Thanks for any advice you can give.

-Eric

[thenewkid64]

If you have the removable hitch head then all you need is the drop bar. The best way to calculate it is to get to that level parking lot and see how much too tall you are.

That should give you minimum drop needed. I would buy a bit more than the actual measurement. You can always have the excess cut off for a couple of bucks. That is what I had to do with a 4X4 truck I had that needed more drop than the short bar and less than the long bar.

[Chuck]

yep, that's just what I recently did. I needed both the head and the draw-bar. It seems that they only make a couple of shanks that lower the ball more than an inch...a 6" and a 4" drop. I thought I could get away with the 4", but it was back-ordered, so I went with the 6". There's definately some "extra" there. maybe the 4" would have done it....but I hate to wait! Like Brett said, better to have it and not need it, than to need it, and not have it.

Here's a link: http://www.reese-hitches.com/wd_shanks.htm

I bought the 54917

good service, low prices (cheaper than retail, even with the shipping).

[thenewkid64]

The main reason I had mine cut down was due to whacking it on the ground at some entrances and exit for parking lots. I know how it felt in the truck, I can only imaging what it was like in the trailer.

[cactushead]

Hey, thanks for the replies, guys. I'm pretty sure from visual inspection that I only need the 4" drop bar, but I'll take it out and measure it to be sure. That 54917 looks like it would plow the road!

Anyway, I'm glad I can still use all the other parts. Maybe I can find a local Reese dealer and trade in the old drop bar towards a new one. Otherwise it would make a great boat anchor!!

Thanks again for your help,
-Eric

[thenewkid64]

The old bar really does not take up that much room in thee garage, or basement. I would keep it so when you get a new tow vehicle and need a shorter bar you have it. You will not get that much for it.

Just my $.02 worth

[cactushead]

By the way, Airstream gives a hitch height of 17.25". Is this to the top of the ball when connected ?

I know when I used my levelling bars previously that I have very negligible settling when I lower the trailer onto the hitch, so theoretically, should I aim for a hitch ball height of about 18" or so without the trailer?

Right now the top of the ball is 24" from the ground unloaded. When I lower the trailer onto the ball, it deflects 3.75" without using levelling bars, to 21.25". If I should be at 17.25" (according to Airstream), then I'm exactly 4" too high. If my hitch bar is a 1" drop now, then theoretically I should need a 5" drop to be perfect.

However, If I use the levelling bars, which I'd like to do because it seems to dampen the "bouncy" feeling in the rear, then the deflection downward caused by the weight of the trailer should be reduced, and that 5" drop would now still be too high. Correct?

So maybe I need the 6" drop bar after all. I'd really like to have an afternoon and a pile of parts to try out until I get something that looks and rides perfect.

Please tell me if my reasoning seems correct on this. For safety's sake, I'd really like to get it exactly right. Thanks again.

[Chuck]

I thought the draw bar would be dragging, too, but it doesn't. On my 2000 ram, the top of the receiver measures 22" above the ground; the ball was actually 25" high on the straight hitch that I had.

anyway, according to the diagram on that site I linked, the bottom of that verticle arm of the draw bar is 10" above the ground before attaching the trailer....still plenty of room.

you want to use the spring bars regardless, as that is the only way of transferring some of the tounge weight of the trailer to the front axle. when you tighten them that will raise the height of the coupler and the rear of the truck; when you set up the hitch, the trailer should be "nose low" without the spring bars, then tighten the spring bars so that the front of the trailer raises back up to level. The final configuration should have the trailer riding level, AND have the proper amount of tounge weight distributed to the front axle of your truck. Of course, this necessitates that you start out with the ball height that is higher by an inch or 2 than the final desired height of the coupler.

Reese says in their instructions to start out with the ball about an inch higher than you want the trailer to ride; that's not quite enough on my setup, but my trailer is probably heavier than yours. A/S is referring to the height of the ball when everything is attached. that should be the height that will make the trailer level.

[Chuck]

Ok, I just measured mine, and I'm only using about 4" of drop...and I think it needs to come up just a skootch, too. So I'll bet that the 4 would be enough, assuming that the height of your receiver is the same as mine, and the suspension is the same (4x4/half-ton). I know they changed the Ram around a bit some time after 2000......

[cactushead]

Chuck,

Thanks much for the info. I guess my best bet would be to get the 54917. That way I have plenty of room to adjust and test, and I can always whack an inch or two off if I dont need it.

Once again, this forum rocks!