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Old 07-04-2015, 09:17 AM   #1
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1974 27' Overlander
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fresh water drain cap stuck

Best way without breaking threads or causing a leak. Any ideas
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Old 07-04-2015, 09:30 AM   #2
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...ml#post1646535
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Old 07-12-2015, 12:14 PM   #3
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stuck fresh water cap

This is a brass cap with a T-handle brazed on it. Any real force will cause the plastic treads to distort and probably cause a leak that will be unfixable. bye bye fresh water tank. I'm not ready for that just yet. Still looking for some other ideas.
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Old 07-12-2015, 12:38 PM   #4
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This would help ...
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:26 AM   #5
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I'm sure they would do a number on it!!
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Old 07-14-2015, 08:27 AM   #6
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Can you post a picture of the drain cap you are speaking of? It may be a PO modification, and if so, we may have no idea what you are up against.
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Old 07-16-2015, 06:35 PM   #7
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fresh water drain cap stuck

Thanks Belegedhel for your reply. To see better what I was looking at, I moved the water pump which was sitting on a board on the furnace duct work over about a foot to under the sink area. Water lines and wiring were long enough. Looking at the 3 stop valves, 2 are positioned horizontal and the other one is vertical. The vertical valve has one end still attached, the other end had a tee soldered to it. The copper line on both sides of the tee have been removed!! This all looks like original old stuff. Looking closer the PO installed a plastic tee on the water outlet of the tank and stuck a threaded nipple to it and thats what I see protruding out the bottom with a brass cap and T handle. The other end of the plastic tee has about a foot of plastic on it which is then attached by some flex tubing which leads to the water pump. Will air and the pink stuff make things safe enough come winter? I feel the cap needs to come off so it can drain totally. Any ideas? Plus a check valve must not be working. When I hook up the garden hose to the rig the fresh water tanks fill up. Any ideas?
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:43 PM   #8
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It's hard to tell without seeing it but….

I have the white plastic drain valve. They are prone to failure, and in my case, a scary pain to replace. When I added plumbing to enable me to add antifreeze with out taking stuff apart, I made provisions for another white drain plug failure.

I am thinking that your previous owner added a drain " route " to avoid using the white drain plug….because if you use them…..they break.
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:57 PM   #9
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A picture is worth a thousand words.
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:45 AM   #10
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Well, I would say that when it comes to winterizing, you don't want to hope for the best. Either ensure that your system has all the water taken out of it, or add RV antifreeze to it to keep it from freezing. My '73 doesn't have any mechanism installed to gravity-drain the tank at all. The only means of draining it is by just pumping everything you can out of it with the water pump. When I was rebuilding my trailer, I installed a removable deck cap in the top of my water tank so that I could reach in there with a wet-vac and suck out anything that was remaining.

For your situation, I would say that if you are afraid of breaking something by opening (trying to open) valves, then maybe the best route is just to leave it alone. Pump out all the water you can with the water pump, drain the lines, and then decide if there is enough left in the tank to warrant putting anti-freeze in there.

good luck!
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Old 07-17-2015, 10:23 AM   #11
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Question 'cuz we don't have a photo to go on yet......

......I'll add this.

To eliminate the plastic drain valve......get one of these and a 1/4" ball valve.

Bob
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Old 07-17-2015, 11:09 AM   #12
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stuck fresh water drain cap stuck

Thanks all for the different ideas. Come fall I'll get my Dremel tool out and drill and tap that flare fitting that he brazed shut for a cap and put a small plug or valve in. What a great group we have.
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