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Old 06-09-2018, 02:19 AM   #1
Restoring...
 
1977 27' Overlander
Ventura , California
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 16
1977 Overlander Rebuild

Hi -

This is my continuation of the thread I started here (http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...on-182520.html). I am somewhat new to the forums so still learning all of the etiquette.

Anyways, we are going into week two of our rebuild. We gutted most of the interior last weekend and I chipped away a bit more throughout the week. Our goal for this weekend is to remove the AC and the interior skins.

Also, I was able to remove most of the bathroom intact; is this something worth selling or...?

First image is our starting point this weekend. Second image is the bathroom we removed.
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Old 06-11-2018, 08:17 AM   #2
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1969 27' Overlander
Dripping Springs , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 18
Looking forward to the thread. That is a nice start for just a few weeks!

I was able to get my bathroom out as well but I am not sure if it's worth anything. I stuck in a barn and threw a tarp over it just in case. It sure is hard to find a place for all the stuff you take out.
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Old 06-15-2018, 06:10 PM   #3
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,605
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Hi brzeller: Yep, pretty big pile of Airstream detritus can develop during an extensive project. I have a pretty big pile heading to the landfill myself. That's three of us who have a pile of rotten Overlander stuff.

I'd take good care of those bathroom plastic parts. I believe they do have value. But the market for them is small. My bathtub has been repaired, and some of the other plastic parts have some cracks in them. Your "shower wall" on the side of the tub is much better than my 75.

Thanks for starting a 77 Overlander project thread. It will be interesting to follow in the weeks ahead.

David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f17...ml#post2053792

Link to our 1976 Renovation Project:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f221...ct-202081.html
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Old 07-07-2018, 12:21 AM   #4
Restoring...
 
1977 27' Overlander
Ventura , California
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 16
It's been a while since my first post and I wanted to give a little update. I also have a few questions scattered throughout .

I think were about 30-35 hours into this project. It's mostly my dad and I doing the work.

We have removed the interior skins, the insulation, the wiring, the subfloor, the tanks and most of the belly pan. We left the banana wrap in place (hanging from under the bottom trim) and removed the large sheet in the front along with both tank pans. We are stuck on the middle belly pan sheet as it looks like it is pinched between the frame and the axels... is it common to have to remove the axels to remove that sheet?

We are actually pleasantly surprised with the condition of the frame. Some rust and pitting on the top of one of the I-beams in back and some on the opposite I-beam in the front. The outriggers all look fairly good as well.

We are going to grind all the rust off best we can and then are looking to make some reinforcements. Anyone here have good recommendations for reinforcements to the frame? We are thinking about adding another cross member next to the second to last cross member to the back. And are also thinking about adding a plate to each I-beam in the back (so it makes a hollow beam). Thoughts?

Another note on the frame: we got the laser level out and noticed the rear is drooping slightly (maybe 1/4 inch). We're hoping that if we jack up the trailer from the rear, the weight help straighten it out and we can weld our reinforcements on. Thoughts on straightening out rear-end droop?

Once we make all the frame repairs / reinforcements we plan to paint with POR-15.

Also, we're thinking about putting the belly pan back on as the very last step, after we rebuild everything inside. The thinking is that it gives us flexibility to make plumbing / electrical adjustments as we begin to build up the interior. Does this sound reasonable?

So close to the end of demo / disassembly! Still having a blast with this project

P.s. anyone know what that little tray is for in the front of the trailer? Assuming break related possibly? (you can see it towards the bottom in the attached picture).

Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2018, 07:51 PM   #5
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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1. We are stuck on the middle belly pan sheet as it looks like it is pinched between the frame and the axles... is it common to have to remove the axles to remove that sheet?

Yep, Airstream installs the belly pan first, and then the axles. I have lifted the trailer, stabilized it on sturdy jack stands for safety, dropped the axles, and then the belly pan. Others have simply trimmed around the axle brackets to remove the belly pan.

2. Anyone here have good recommendations for reinforcements to the frame? We are thinking about adding another crossmember next to the second to last cross member to the back. And are also thinking about adding a plate to each I-beam in the back (so it makes a hollow beam). Thoughts?

Your crossmember consideration is dependent on how and where you will mount the holding tanks. Airstream generally has a crossmember every 24", but there are a ton of exceptions. I welded 1 1/2" by 3/16" thick angle irons to the bottom of the frame rails to mount my tanks, and to add frame strength. I also welded 1 1/2" angle irons to the top of the frame rail to add strength. This was done while the rear of the frame was on jack stands to hold it level. I had about 3/8" droop in the rear. Make sure your axle mounting plates are not cracked or the frame rails not buckled anywhere.
I've read several times about guys "boxing in" their frame rails for additional strength. Generally speaking, Airstreams are built light, they are "semi monocoque" construction meaning the frame is held up by the body, and the body is held up by the frame. A well attached plywood subfloor adds strength to the whole structure. Any of those three major pieces sitting alone are quite flimsy, but together they are quite strong. Think old aircraft fuselage design. Yes, you can box in the frame, but you likely don't need to, unless you want to carry 4 horses in your trailer.

3. Also, we're thinking about putting the belly pan back on as the very last step, after we rebuild everything inside. The thinking is that it gives us flexibility to make plumbing / electrical adjustments as we begin to build up the interior. Does this sound reasonable?

Yep, I leave the belly pan down until I'm done with everything and ready to mount the axles. The waste water plumbing is in part below the subfloor, but the fresh water plumbing and vent pipes are all above. It is heated up there and you don't want the water lines to freeze up.

Hope this helps a bit with your project.

David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f17...ml#post2053792

Link to our 1976 Renovation Project:
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f221...ct-202081.html
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Old 10-22-2018, 12:27 AM   #6
Restoring...
 
1977 27' Overlander
Ventura , California
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 16
More Progress

It's been a while since I last posted so thought I'd give an update.

We had a slow summer (not much work on the trailer) but we've spent the last few months solely on the windows and the frame.

Mostly spent a few hours here and a few hours there grinding rust and old paint off the frame... removing various little things as I go (wheel covers, break lines, etc.). I think the frame is starting to look clean and ready for the por15 treatment. We also removed the axels and attached some new 1/2" iron plates to the outriggers (the little plat that the belly pan rivets to).

Below are some progress pictures.

I also have a few questions

1. Any thoughts on the frame condition? We were pleasantly surprised with the condition. It all seems very solid. There is a bit of pitting in the front and rear but I don't think it is anything major.

2. I am about to start the por15 treatment. I have a tad bit of grinding / sandblasting left. But overall, does the frame look like its in a good state to paint?

3. From what I've read on the por15 treatment, I think it goes as follows: degrease the frame / rinse / let dry, apply metal prep / rinse / let dry, paint on 2 coats of por15. Do I have that right? Any tips?

4. Next steps... after I paint the frame, I think I am ready for the new subfloor. Heard a trick to slide in full sheets through the wheel well. Anyone ever try this? Any luck? How else can I get full sheets in?

5. I would also like to patch up the roof... any tips for this? Do I just need to orderer some aluminum, cut to fit, screw it in and seal it with sikaflex? Also, what does everyone do with the fridge exhaust? We aren't planning on having a full sized fridge so won't need that hole anymore.

6. Windows... oh boy. All of ours were double paned. All of which either had water inside and or had the internal tint deteriorating. We're opting to convert them all to single paned (heard that was a thing people do?) but haven't found any good details on how people put the windows back together with just one pane? We were thinking about finding a rubber gasket type thing that we could wedge in beween the outer pane and the inside of the window frame. Then using a seal around the outside and in...? Thoughts? Also, we have 2 stubborn window frames that refuse to come apart. They will not separate on the bottom... I think that internal rod has rusted / stuck to the inside of the frame. How have people overcome this?

Thanks!
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Old 10-22-2018, 09:17 AM   #7
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1986 25' Sovereign
2008 F350, 6.4L diesel , Oak Harbor, WA
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If I understand you correctly:
The plywood will go through the door.
I would purchase an eight foot sheet of aluminum and form a curved piece to cover the holes. Then rivet the patch in through your sealant.
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