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Old 07-14-2020, 07:57 AM   #41
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1975 27' Overlander
Newnan , Georgia
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Yes, both sides stack windows look like they have been out at some point, the smaller one in front of the door also has Olympic rivets in it.

The smaller glass is from a Vista View window on the curb side in front of and above the door, it is very hard to see because the Zip Dee awning covers it almost completely. I found a picture of another 75 Overlander with no awning and you can see it better. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-15-2020, 06:30 PM   #42
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Okay, I understand. Thanks Kartwheels68. David
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Old 07-16-2020, 06:53 PM   #43
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1975 27' Overlander
Newnan , Georgia
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I got the lower inner skins off so I can begin replacing the floor. I also got the Vista View window sashes cleaned of the old butyl tape and got the new weather strip I got from Vintage Trailer Gaskets installed. As soon as my tint comes the Vista View windows will be back in and finished. Tomorrow I start on removing the refrigerator and galley. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-16-2020, 07:52 PM   #44
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1975 27' Overlander
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My Overlander doesn't have vista windows, so that is a hard job I didn't have to do.

I don't understand why Airstream created a 6" high shelf on top of the fridge and below the overhead lockers. Your photo shows that shelf. It was the same in my trailer. Maybe because they wanted the fridge on the floor and didn't want to install a larger fridge. It is not like Airstream to waste interior space this way. Anyways, I selected a smaller fridge and a microwave that fits into the space nicely. I have a bit more wardrobe space, and some storage space under the fridge accessible from the outside access door.

I bet it is hot working in your trailer in the Georgia heat.

David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
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Old 07-17-2020, 06:17 AM   #45
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1975 27' Overlander
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It is hot but I stop working around 1PM and start again at 5-6PM. I have a "contractor" style generator (I am going to get a different generator for camping) so I hooked it up through one of the 20A circuits and the old Armstrong AC still works. The first time I started the AC it ran for 10-15 minutes and blew cold air. Those Armstrong AC units are pretty amazing at how many of them still work after 40-50+ years.
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Old 07-18-2020, 03:35 PM   #46
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1975 27' Overlander
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I finished replacing the center sections of the two broken roof vents. I used Lexan and riveted and sealed them. I did not put a white translucent piece on the inside, if I decide later that I want less light it will be easy to take the vent cap off and add it.

I also found a perfect match for the paint on all the inside trim, it's Krylon Fusion and the color is called Clamshell. It is identical to the painted aluminum window screen frames. I am going to use it for the bathroom and all of the other plastic pieces throughout the trailer that have darkened brown with age. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-19-2020, 08:47 AM   #47
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I got the galley, furnace and refrigerator out, I managed to get the galley out without damaging anything, but it was more difficult because the tracks for the large tambour door under the stove top and the smaller one below the sink will not open. I will have to fix them before I put everything back together.


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The floor rot stops a few inches to the rear of the door on the curb side and stops at the forward wall for the refrigerator on the street side. I have a couple of skins to remove on the street side and I can start replacing the floor and repairing any damage to the frame. My floor is true 3/4" plywood, not 23/32", so I will have to find some true 3/4 plywood.




Brian
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Old 07-19-2020, 01:38 PM   #48
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I am not going to replace the furnace, in its place under the galley I am going to mount a 2 gallon well tank/accumulator. I am also going to update to a modern water pump, even though the original is still working. I might keep it for an emergency spare.
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Old 08-01-2020, 03:47 PM   #49
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I finally got the front two sections of plywood cut out of the trailer, from the door forward. I was expecting some rust damage because of how much water had been leaking, but it is really bad. I was planning on not taking the shell off as long as the frame could be fixed without it, but this rust is so bad I am going to have to build a new frame. I just dont see how this one can be safely fixed and if it could building a new one would probably be less work. At this point the only thing I have left inside to take apart is the two partition walls, the bedroom goucho frame and the cabinets across from the bed.
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Old 08-01-2020, 04:03 PM   #50
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Looks like it was "repaired" with a 2x4.
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Old 08-01-2020, 04:07 PM   #51
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That is the plywood front of the "box" that the fresh water tank sits in. It is original.
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Old 08-01-2020, 06:12 PM   #52
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Learn something new everyday. I've owned 50s, 60s, 80s, 90s, and 2000s Airstreams and no plywood box around below floor tanks on any that I have owned, but I've never owned a 70s Airstream.
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Old 08-01-2020, 06:42 PM   #53
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It is kind of odd. If you look at the pictures, under that section of floor there was another 3/4" piece of plywood sandwiched between the floor and the cross member, the cross member is offset downwards and there is an angle iron frame on the bottom framing in the fresh tank that sits about 1" below the rest of the frame. The fresh tank sits on a 3/4 sheet of plywood and all four sides are closed in with strips of plywood. Its basically the same way they built the "box" in the back that held the grey and black tanks.
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Old 08-01-2020, 07:04 PM   #54
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Hi Kartwheels: My 75 didn't have any wood in the tank compartments. I did have Styrofoam insulation around the tanks. I also had a plastic molded piece that supported the tanks at a good drain angle. The galvanized sheet tank pans are known to get very rusty. Maybe someone replaced it with a plywood box. Just speculating.

We all roll the dice on 70s trailers concerning frame rust. People see this less on 1960s trailers. And my wife's 86 didn't have rust like my 75 did. I wonder if the steel or the paint changed during the 70s. My frame was repairable from underneath. I have rear end separation like many do thanks to the lousy rear body seal and the infamous decorative aluminum sheet between the bumper hatch and the body. We welded new steel supports on suspect areas.

New trailer frames can be built, maybe using the old one as a model. The "outriggers" body attach points are important, the axle mounting points are important, the step box is important. Research these Forums and you will see how others built their frames. No kidding, it is a big project.

David
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Link to my 1975 Overlander Improvement Journal:
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Link to our 1976 Renovation Project:
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