Visit our Popular Forums

kx2and2 · 09-20-2010, 05:02 PM

In a word 'WOW'

An awful lot accomplished in a short period....

That frame looks wonderful Chris, and the shiny new floor... (even if just a dry fit), looks amazing.

I finally started to take things out of mine - updated my picasa with shots of the rot in the floor, Looks like I might run out of time this season to do any real work.. I had ordered some sealant from a dealer here in Ottawa but they have not called, gotta fix the leaks before I even contemplate changing flooring....

I'm like MT - afraid of what I will find under those belly skins!!!!

Keep up the good work Chris - we are all living vicariously through you at the moment... (at least I am)

wasagachris · 09-21-2010, 12:34 PM

The GD weather is holding me up.

I can't get more than one day without rain.

I have cleaned the frame with Marine Clean. Yesterday and today I applied the Metal Ready to etch the new steel. Rain predicted for the next 4 days.

I have 2 shops in town that can paint it for me. 1st said check with him in the morning and I can't reach the other. The frame is nice and dry now but that will change tonight. I can't win for trying. Maybe I can get the paint on before spring.

wasagachris · 09-21-2010, 04:54 PM

Yahoo I heard from 2nd shop and I'm off to get the frame indoors right now. Painting starts in the morning. It should be back on Friday. I still have to wait for dry weather on Sunday to start install of the floor. This Saturday is our early halloween dance (the park is closed by Oct 31st) so no work can be done anyway until after that. As you can see from the picture I need a rest.

Aage · 09-21-2010, 05:31 PM

Folks in Durham, shore do dress funny these days...

Or lookout, he -may- be from Oshawa!

wasagachris · 09-26-2010, 01:20 PM

I got the frame back from painting on Friday morning. I managed to install the waste and fresh water tanks installed. I also ran the wiring for the brakes.
I dry fitted the floor one more time to check for alignment with the waste system. Some minor adjustments will need to be made. It turns out that the old frame was so out of square that the factory installed the old floor on an angle to compensate. When I followed the old pattern the floor was hanging 1/2" over the curbside outriggers at the front and by the time it reached the back it was right on.
Today I am finishing the wiring for the brakes and the drain pipeing for the waste system. I am also going to install the steps.
The floor will be then fitted for the last time and fastened down. I will leave out the wheelwell covers(outer or inner if you're in Minnesota

MC) until after the floor/frame is back under the shell. It just makes it easier to clear the 4x4's on the sawhorses. I have already rolled the chassis under the shell for the weekend to keep it dry. It went in pretty easy but very slowly in the dark Friday night.

Driftless you asked earlier how much heavier the frame was now. I still don't know the weight but it took just three of us to put it up on sawhorses and to flip it over for painting.

If anyone is wondering why the whole frame is silver. It has two coats of the black POR-15 and two coats of the silver topcoat because I had the paint. I ordered too much silver. I had two quarts and a pint of black and one quart and a pint of silver.

Aage · 09-26-2010, 02:44 PM

That is bar none the best-looking frame I have yet seen.

I think I missed where you talked about what tanks you are putting back into it. I see two matching ones aft of the wheels (fresh water?) and two non-matching fore of the wheels with 3" outlets and guillotine valves.

It's a '73, so one of those tanks towards the front is a gray tank you added, correct? So, which is which and what capacities will you now have?

wasagachris · 09-26-2010, 06:22 PM

Hi Aage pic 3 is the fresh water tank. It is one tank that is notched to go around the angle iron which supports a floor joint. pic 4 is aft of that tank and shows the axles. pic 5 shows the grey tank in front and the black tank in back. A/S lists the capacities at 45 gallons fresh and has no listings for grey and black.

driftless · 09-27-2010, 07:20 AM

Very nice, Chris. Actually, better than very nice.. Excellent!!

I think I read one of Andy's posts and he mentioned that the skin/body of an AS actually supports the rear section of the frame rather than the frame supporting the rear end of the body. Seeing how light weight the frame is, that makes sense.

So, is there any vertical deflection, front to back, of the side rails while the frame is empty? With the floor on? If there is, I would think the frame should be on blocks and leveled before the floor and shell are reattached. That way the shell would start out with a neutral load, assuming the channel is straight around the bottom.

I'm not trying to second guess you or anything, just trying to get a better understanding of how these riveted unibodies work. (I have a degree in structural engineering even though I spent my lifetime designing sewers and water mains. Just can't help looking at things with engineer eyes which means I sometimes overthink things. Just ask my wife!)

So, keep up the good work and the great posts!

Minno · 09-27-2010, 07:41 AM

WC - looks great! Too bad no inner wheel wells installed yet...

This is a 73 and it came with a gray water tank? Nice - saved you a ton of work that I'm still pondering exactly what to do to add a gray tank to ours. Yours must be a center bath, right? Do you have the dimensions of the gray tank (HxLxD)? Divide the total volume in cubic inches by 231 to get US gals. I'd be interested in the dimensions of the gray tank if you can get them easily.

I agree with Lew when it comes time to re-attach the shell. I had the frame of ours supported on blocks and with the stabilizer jacks, and then jacked up the rear frame about 1/2" to get the whole frame dead level (checked with levels and really taunt string line) before I riveted the rear shell to the c-channel and bolted the rear c-channel to the frame. Once the rear end was all connected together, I removed the jacks and it stayed dead level. Still is. But you might not have any issues with a completely new frame.

One additional question - how will you operate the dump valves? Do you have the remote cable type, or will you run a solid extension rod out through the side of the frame?

Chris

wasagachris · 09-27-2010, 10:36 AM

Lew & Chris I'm ahead of you guys in my thinking anyway.
Here's mine plan. Let me know if you see any flaws. I intend to back the frame in and position it straight side to side and in the right position front to back. I am going to drop plumb lines at strategic points from the shell to known points on the frame/floor assembly to make sure I have the chassis in exactly the right spot under the shell. The chassis will then get levelled side to side and front to back. I will then block it in four points along both main frame rails to support the frame to the ground. I then intend to make sure the frame is exactly straight front to back with no waves or deflections in it. Then and only then will I start to lower the shell back on to the floor. Sound good?
Lew yes the shell does hold the frame into position. When I released the last of the rear bolts the floor dropped at least 4 inches. When that happened a part of my anatomy receeded by the same amount. Scared the s**t out of me.
Chris Is your'e belly button an inny or an outty? Bet if I asked Kay I would get a different answer. LMAO.
The grey tank measures 26.5x54.5x3.5. Using Minnesota math it holds 21.88 U.S. gallons. Cool formula BTW. The tank sits in a galvanized box just like the black tank but it does not hang below the frame like the black tank.
Strange thing about the 73 excella it doesn't exist in floor plans from A/S. All the manuals and literature from 74 show floor plans and specs etc. I'm assuming this unit was a prototype for the 74 model year. Production date was April 73.
The original layout was for the solid extension rods for the dump valves and I am keeping it. I thought about using the electric dump valves but they have had some problems so I stayed with tried and true technology. Who needs to reinvent the wheel anyway? Yes the trailer is a center(centre CAN) bath.

wasagachris · 09-27-2010, 10:49 AM

Today I'm working on the aluminum trim parts like above the step, the front holddown plate cover, the rear frame side covers, rear holddown/bumper door plate and the inner bumper cover across the rear crossmember. I will also finish the waste connections. The floor will have to wait until later in the week. Heavy rains predicted here on Tuesday. I am also off on a road trip because I don't have enough to do I bought another A/S. It's a 75 31' Soverign rear bath. I'm off to North Carolina tonight to pick it up. I'll be back on Wednesday morning and after some rest I'll get a good look at it and post acouple of pics. Here's a couple of shots from the ad. Too bad N.C. is in the opposite direction from MN or i would swing by for a peek at lilgirl. I don't often get south of the 49th but might this winter if the 73 is ready.Fat chance

Wabbiteer · 09-27-2010, 11:08 AM

A Psychologist usually confirms diagnoses via performance errors...

You're busted. (Welcome to the club.)

wasagachris · 09-27-2010, 11:40 AM

I think it's called aluminitus. Another member said that he would sleep with a small piece of aluminum under his pillow while away on business trips.

My harem is growing. I'll soon have a fleet and qualify for cheaper insurance.
1) 1986 GMC Camper Van
2) 1973 Airstream Excella 500 31'
3) 1975 Airstream Soverign 31'
4) 2010 Ford F450 Crew Cab Dually Diesel
5) 1980 GMC 3500 Dump Truck
6) 1985 GMC 6000 Hydro Bucket Truck
7) 1973 Massey Ferguson Industrial Tractor/Loader/Backhoe
8) 1989 Kawasaki Mule
9) 2006 Ford Focus Wagon (For Mom)

driftless · 09-27-2010, 01:11 PM

If you are blocking the frame at 4 locations, are you planning on the wheels supporting the center of the frame? That doesn't seem like it would provide rigid support when a load was applied because the tires would flex but the blocking wouldn't. I'd suggest a spacing beginning at the front end of the frame that would be 3.5', 7', 7', 7', and 3.5' to the back of the frame. That would give you equal spacing on the blocks and require six blocks instead of four.

I like your plan for dropping plumb lines. Sounds like it should work pretty well.

I noticed that about the Excella floor plan as well. I think mine was manufactured in April of 73, too. Now I wonder if the 73 service manual I ordered will do me any good or if I should have ordered a '74???

Keep us updated. It sure is a lot more fun to watch your progress than to actually do it myself..

wasagachris · 09-30-2010, 05:57 PM

I just flew in from North Caroilina.

Actually I drove here pulling the newest member of my fleet. It was'nt a good trip. I think I will sell this one as it seems like too much to take on right now. I heard from my friend who was interested in it and he is going to pass. The repairs are out of his budget.
Anyway no new progress on the 73 since Monday. I got three sheets of the floor installed before the rain started and then I left for N.C. If it's not raining tomorrow I will try to finish the floor install. Minor mods needed because the new fresh water tank fills from a different spot.
Here is the link to the new thread I have started on the 75

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f183...ain-70088.html

Minno · 10-01-2010, 05:12 PM

WC - I thought you were kinda nuts before, but these last couple of posts have confirmed it...

But, that's not a bad thing in my book.

Regarding the MN Math reference regarding how to calculate US Gals. That isn't mine - I found it someplace else in the forums, and then confirmed it on a conversion website.

Kay's response to your inny/outty question: Are we talking about belly buttons or tent bottoms? That was followed by a really weird look. If you made Boundary Water trips you'd understand. Of maybe just do a lot of tent camping...

I'm with Lew (again) regarding supporting the frame. Get her up off the tires so they don't give and throw things off. Great overall plan though!

MC

wasagachris · 10-05-2010, 05:44 PM

Hey M.C. I'm not crazy but I used to have a split personality. I'm alright now and so am I.

The formula is great. I hope the dimensions I gave you help you design and plan your grey tank.
Anyway I got a little more done on the 73 in the past couple of days. 6 out of 7 floor sheets are installed. The waste valves and the drain plumbing is complete. I also installed the ducting to heat the gray tank and stubbed it up through the floor. The black tank duct tees off the main duct in the bathroom and just drops throught the floor into the galvanized box. It will have to be installed later. I bought a new toilet flange and installed it today. I got all the double C channel installed along the sides except for one piece that will have to be installed after the last floor sheet is installed. I am visiting a shop in the morning to have some aluminium bent. This trim covers the frame rails from the bumper to the front edge of the kickdown plates. It is installed under the rearward edge of the last floor sheet. Once I have those few parts bent I can finish the floor install. I hope to have the shell back on the frame after this weekend is over.

Aage · 10-05-2010, 08:26 PM

Looking so good it seems like it's almost a shame to put the rest back on!

Almost...

driftless · 10-05-2010, 09:20 PM

That is one great looking frame and floor!! JOb very well done!!

wasagachris · 10-05-2010, 09:27 PM

Thanks AAGE and Lew. Your right it does look to good to put a shell back on it but it will be a little cool and damp camping without a shell.

Lew I took your advice and got four more jack stands for a total of 12. I will block the frame in 6 points as you suggested. I don't intend on lifting the wheels of the ground because I am concerned about the weight of the axles and wheels causing the frame to sag down in the middle. I will use the wheels to level it side to side and then support the frame on either side of the axles to eliminate any flexing.