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Old 12-21-2010, 07:19 PM   #41
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Lookin' good! Big step there, huh? Way to go!
Thanks for the encouragement. Bid deal here.. Three tough jobs.. lifting the shell, getting new chassis, replacing shell.. 2 of the 3 are done. One more to go..

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Loookin goood Daniel The pics are still bass ackwards right. Are you getting new axles. Now would be the time to put them on. POR-15 now right.
Yeah the pictures are negative reversed. I need to doctor them before I post them because they weird me out.

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I can delete at least four of them, and redistribute them for better rigidity and flex performance while reducing weight by 200 lbs or so.
The cross members are generally 2' on center.. and those support the subfloor too. If you remove them won't that take away support for the floor?
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:31 PM   #42
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I could barely contain my excitement today. I had to go by the auto parts store and pick up some rust proofing stuff. They used to sell POR 15 but now only sell KBS ( Stop Rust - Gas Tank Sealer - Gas Tank Liner - KBS Coatings - RustSeal in Colors ). I got some. Cleaner, etcher, and sealer.

What a relief to have the chassis back.

The cold spell that blew down from the Great White North has passed. It should be up in the upper 50s through the weekend. If it doesn't rain (any more), I should have the chassis sealed up by the end of the week.

I still haven't decided what to use for the floor. I'm leaning toward 3/4 plywood, but still don't have the warm and fuzzies that it can be sealed well enough to out live me (and maybe a while for the boy.. who is 18.. and who's grand plan for the interior is 1) 60" plasma tv 2) Couch 3) Bed. "That's all you need" he says).
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:32 PM   #43
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I also need to figure out what to use to seal a couple splits in the plastic wheel wells.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:00 PM   #44
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The cross members are generally 2' on center.. and those support the subfloor too. If you remove them won't that take away support for the floor?
Right, but supporting the floor doesn't require a full, solid box section. I'm not criticizing your frame at all - I think it's wonderfully solid.

I'm more thinking that given the increased rigidity and depth of the frame, certain... liberties... can be taken, within original design limits.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:13 PM   #45
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I also need to figure out what to use to seal a couple splits in the plastic wheel wells.
Daniel I used a repair kit for plastic bumpers. It's a 2 part epoxy and a mesh dries hard as a rock in a couple of hours. It's actually stronger than the plastic now. I got it at a local auto parts store.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:16 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Park View Post
Right, but supporting the floor doesn't require a full, solid box section. I'm not criticizing your frame at all - I think it's wonderfully solid.

I'm more thinking that given the increased rigidity and depth of the frame, certain... liberties... can be taken, within original design limits.
No.. I didn't take what you were saying as criticism.. I thought that you were saying that you were just going to remove a bunch of cross members.. and I was like.. What about the floor?
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:21 PM   #47
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Daniel I used a repair kit for plastic bumpers. It's a 2 part epoxy and a mesh dries hard as a rock in a couple of hours. It's actually stronger than the plastic now. I got it at a local auto parts store.
Sounds perfect! Thanks..

I see some people have these fabricated wheel wells.. seen from the inside they look like metal boxes.. are these in place of the plastic wheel wells or an addition over top of the plastic wheel wells?
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:28 PM   #48
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I think in place of the original inner wheel wells. Do you have the outer yellow plastic ones? I know yours was gutted when you got it.
I think 50's trailers had original metal wheel wells.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:31 PM   #49
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The ones that were on it are these black things.. the PO also gave me a set of yellow ones.. I really didn't know what they were for. The yellow ones seem not as tall as the black ones.. I haven't measured them..
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:38 PM   #50
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yellow on top of black with insulation in between
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:41 PM   #51
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Awesome..
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Old 01-01-2011, 10:23 AM   #52
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rustproofed

Painting on the rustproofing junk is no walk in the park.
Next up cutting plywood and getting tanks situated.
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Old 01-01-2011, 10:39 AM   #53
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I've started cutting the floor and ran into an issue. In the bottom left picture the crossmember between where the steps go is where the plywood breaks, but there is no support there above the steps.
Do I cut the main floor around the area above the steps and cut a separate piece for the area above the steps?
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:15 AM   #54
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Daniel Keep the floor sheets whole. You must notch out about 1/4" of the width of the sheets across the length of the door opening. There is an aluminium L angle that spans that opening and sits below the door frame. Oce the L angle and the door frame are attached together they create a solid connection and the floor will not flex. Don't forget to install a piece of aluminium sheet to cover the bottom of the floor above the steps as this area is not enclosed by the belly pan. If you need I can get some pics for you.
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:54 AM   #55
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Hopefully I'll be finding the pieces for that then. Thanks, Chris.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:25 AM   #56
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Chris,

Is this the angle iron that we are talking about? on the attached pdf file it is #20.

I know yours is put back together, but if you do have any pictures they would be tremendously helpful.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:59 AM   #57
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Daniel it's #20 on that parts list. It actually goes under the floor sheetsand sits on top of the two outriggers. Once the shell is back on the door frame is bolted down through the floor and into the angle aluminium. Did you not have this part when you pulled the shell? I'll get some pics but they won't show much now that everything is back together on mine.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:39 AM   #58
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Unfortunately that part was missing. Should be easy to replace though.

I think I understand. The 1/8 that needs to be removed is from the thickness of the floor where the angle iron is and also 1/8 out of the width of the plywood floor at the edge?
The angle is on the outside pointing downward so that there is 1/8" outside of the step outriggers?
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:50 AM   #59
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Daniel actually the entire thickness nedds to be notched out so that angle piece is flush with the edge of the floor and then door frame will be flush to floor.
Here's some pics. I hope they help. You can see the angle piece from outside it has the three little snaps on it. They were for a screen room for my old awning. You won't need the snaps I just mentioned them as a reference point to find the part in the pics.
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:00 AM   #60
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awesome. I see now.
In the top right picture I don't see any bolts coming down through the angle iron. How does the angle iron attach to the door frame?
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