Dan's 34' Makeover

[TouringDan]

David

Thanks for the information about Kirstrof building an off grid 76 Sovereign. I will check out his thread. Us off grid folks need to learn from each other.

Dan

[TouringDan]

SPEC COMPARISON WITH THE 2020 CLASSIC 33’. I happen to be looking at the recent thread about the new 2020 Airstream 33’ Classic with the new white interior. Because it is 33’ and almost as long as our 34’ I thought it would be interesting to compare some of the specifications.

Here they are.

Total length 2020-33’ 33’ 95-34’ 35’- 1”

Total area 2020-33’ 250 sq. ft. 95-34’ 251 sq. ft.

Tongue weight 2020-33’ 1,175 lbs. 95-34’ 800 lbs.

Base weight 2020-33’ 8,261 lbs. 95-34’ 7,100 lbs.

Gross weight 2020-33’ 10,000 lbs. 95-34’ 8,900 lbs.

Net Capacity 2020-33’ 1,739 lbs. 95-34’ 1,800 lbs.

Fresh water 2020-33’ 54 gal 95-34’. 50 gal

Gray water 2020-33’ 37 gal 95-34’ 30 gal

Black water 2020-33’ 39 gal 95-34’ 35 gal

Axles 2020-33’ double 95-34’ triple

A very interesting comparison- I like our 95-34’ which weighs 1,100 lbs less, 375 lbs less tongue weight and 50 % more tire capacity and braking because it is triple axle!

Dan

[rideair]

Looks like Airstream is following in the footsteps of your average American. Gotten wider around the middle, overall heavier, can’t carry as much weight, and are full of more crap!

All joking aside, looking back at my 1966 26’ Overlander and the weight there of compared to todays 26/27’ trailers, it’s rather sad. And people wonder why you need a ¾ or ton truck to pull them down the road.

Oh, and your foam removal tool works. I did improve the system by having my 18 yrs. daughter hold a "Shop-Vac" under it to suck-in all the foam as it came off the ceiling. Made very little to clean up off the floor. Now to remove the glue

I think, I'll be going back with Zolatone paint on the ceiling. They now have stuff that can be applied with a standard paint gun.

Enjoy,

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by rideair

Looks like Airstream is following in the footsteps of your average American. Gotten wider around the middle, overall heavier, can’t carry as much weight, and are full of more crap!

All joking aside, looking back at my 1966 26’ Overlander and the weight there of compared to todays 26/27’ trailers, it’s rather sad. And people wonder why you need a ¾ or ton truck to pull them down the road.

Oh, and your foam removal tool works. I did improve the system by having my 18 yrs. daughter hold a "Shop-Vac" under it to suck-in all the foam as it came off the ceiling. Made very little to clean up off the floor. Now to remove the glue

I think, I'll be going back with Zolatone paint on the ceiling. They now have stuff that can be applied with a standard paint gun.

Enjoy,

Unfortunately that is an accurate assessment of the average American.

Great idea on using the shop vacuum to suck up the foam. I think it is great to copy what someone else has done and then improve on it. I do it all the time.

Glad to hear that you are going to use Zolatone on the ceiling. I think it looks better. I would never put the vinyl covered foam back on the ceiling.

Dan

[dbj216]

Hi there, hope all is well with you. The late model Airstreams are certainly heavier and likely stronger. I've done a couple of late model trailer inspections for interested buyers. I've been impressed at how much better built they are compared to my 86 Limited 34' or my 75 Overlander 27', or my 66 Trade Wind 24'. The 70s trailers suffered from "make it light weight, make it low cost" mentality. Supposedly you could tow them with a Chevy station wagon with a V8. The materials and designs just are way behind the late model Airstreams.

Touring Dan, you will purchase a 2020 Classic about 40 years from now and do a makeover on it. Let us know what you think on how well they have held up compared to your 95. I'm thinking it will be very good indeed.

David

[TouringDan]

I haven’t done any real work on the 34’, but I have been studying up on minisplit heat pumps, via Utube, and thinking about placement of the compressor on the A-frame and where to locate the batteries and electrical stuff.

I was going to put the 14 x 32 compressor between the two 30 Lb propane tanks and the Airstream body, but there is not enough room and the Hensley hitch is in the way. However, I believe I will be able to locate the compressor in front, right behind the electric jack and put a much smaller horizontal aluminum 10 or 20 Lb tank behind the compressor. The distance from the jack to the Airstream body is 27”. This will provide enough space to locate the compressor here (14” deep) and the width of a 20 Lb propane tank (12”) or a 10 Lb propane tank (10”). I have also learned that the minisplit manufacturer recommends 12” of clearance behind the compressor. Locating it up front will provide the recommended clearance.

I do believe that having a 10 Lb propane tank will be adequate. Propane will only be needed for the stove and the water heater. I won’t need propane for the fridge as I am planning on going with a 12v compressor fridge. I also won’t need any propane for the furnace as I will be using the minisplit heat pump for heat. Unlike a regular heat pump that struggles to heat below 40 degrees, the minisplit heat pump will heat all the way down to 5 degrees. Now the heat outlet will be up high, but I also will be installing 3 Maxxair fans. These have a feature where they can be used like a ceiling fan and circulate air.

I was originally planning on locating the batteries and inverter in a cabinet between the recliners up front. I was originally planning on only using two lithium batteries. However I am now committed to having a roof full of solar and way more than two batteries. My goal is never to plug into shore power. I intend to keep my batteries charged up using solar or my 1,000 watt generator.

I have decided to locate my batteries and other electrical stuff under the dinette booth seating area that is next to the wheel well. This will reduce the tongue weight significantly. The space available is 26.5” x 21” x14” high. I believe this will be enough room for 8 lithium ion batteries, a 2,000 watt inverter, solar controllers, switches, circuit breakers, fuses and other electrical stuff. Here are some photos of the area.

Comments always welcomed.

Dan

[Bubba L]

Dan, if I could have figured out where to place a mini split in the 55, I would have. I’ve known several who had those. The decibel reading is nothing. One friend had their compressor on the tongue, but oriented north/south on one side of the A-frame. The propane tank was on the other. That allowed all the air flow necessary. We even considered a slide out compartment for the compressor with flexible Freon lines. Lastly, our 1957 compressor fridge works great on 12v or 120v. Good luck

[TouringDan]

Thanks Bubba. I am about done with absorption fridges. There is a new fridge (10 cubic feet) recently introduced by Furrion. They have some strange ideas on how they recommend you operate it when you are off the grid, but looks like a good possibility for a lot less $ than Isotherm or Vitrifrigo. We will have to wait and see how reliable it is.

I would like to convert the absorption fridge in my Tradewind to a compressor fridge.

What compressor fridge is in your 57?

Dan

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

Thanks Bubba. I am about done with absorption fridges. There is a new fridge (10 cubic feet) recently introduced by Furrion. They have some strange ideas on how they recommend you operate it when you are off the grid, but looks like a good possibility for a lot less $ than Isotherm or Vitrifrigo. We will have to wait and see how reliable it is.

I would like to convert the absorption fridge in my Tradewind to a compressor fridge.

What compressor fridge is in your 57?

Dan

We converted a 50s Dometic M16 absorption fridge to a compressor one with the Isotherm conversion kit designed for the marine sector. The original absorption equipment was unbelievably heavy. I really like how well it works. Also, when traveling the 7-pin charges our battery and the battery runs the fridge.

[TouringDan]

The space for the batteries is not quite as big as I thought. Instead of being 26.5” long it is 25.0” long. This is just barely long enough for 4 batteries so I will be ok. There is 4” left on top. This should be enough for my 2,000 watt Samlex inverter, two Victron 100/50 solar controllers and switches and fuses. I will probably also install a computer fan to keep all this electrical equipment cool. There is no room here for the Progressive Dynamics lithium battery converter so I will probably install this in the 9” space behind the refrigerator. I will be able to plug the converter into the 120v receptacle that is already there for the refrigerator. I am planning on installing a 12v compressor fridge.

Here are some photos. Any comments?

Dan

[A W Warn]

Dan,
There is another existing usable space you might want to consider, if you are going to reinstall the original dinette seating. There is a space behind the storage bin beneath the seat (where the wheel well is in your photo). I cut out a portion of the plywood beneath the seat cushion to make a removable lid out of it. I added a plywood partition behind the storage bins. I use that space for spare part/tool storage and also keep the manual and other documents in there. I think a converter would fit nicely in there and the existing chase would make the wiring really easy.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

. . .
. . . This should be enough for my 2,000 watt Samlex inverter, two Victron 100/50 solar controllers and switches and fuses.
. . .

Nice work, Dan.

Is there any problem putting the solar controller brains so close to the batteries and other equipment, in terms of stray electromagnetic signals? [120 volt AC--12 volt DC--etc.]

Peter

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Nice work, Dan.

Is there any problem putting the solar controller brains so close to the batteries and other equipment, in terms of stray electromagnetic signals? [120 volt AC--12 volt DC--etc.]

Peter

Good question Peter. I will ask Victron. I have my Victron solar controller close to my batteries in my Tradewind and it hasn’t been a problem.

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

Dan,
There is another existing usable space you might want to consider, if you are going to reinstall the original dinette seating. There is a space behind the storage bin beneath the seat (where the wheel well is in your photo). I cut out a portion of the plywood beneath the seat cushion to make a removable lid out of it. I added a plywood partition behind the storage bins. I use that space for spare part/tool storage and also keep the manual and other documents in there. I think a converter would fit nicely in there and the existing chase would make the wiring really easy.

A W Warn

I am going to reinstall the original dinette seating but I don’t understand where the space is that you are talking about. The space under the dinette seating is where the batteries are. Are you talking about the space under the fridge? I have already disassembled the drawer/storage bin. I am going to just install a piano hinge on the drawer front and secure it to the frame- less weight and more storage space. This might be a better location for the converter and some of the other electrical stuff.

Dan

[Lumatic]

Looks like an unused space behind the drawer for the front dinette seat in my 93.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

A W Warn

I am going to reinstall the original dinette seating but I don’t understand where the space is that you are talking about. The space under the dinette seating is where the batteries are. Are you talking about the space under the fridge? I have already disassembled the drawer/storage bin. I am going to just install a piano hinge on the drawer front and secure it to the frame- less weight and more storage space. This might be a better location for the converter and some of the other electrical stuff.

DanAttachment 363780Attachment 363781

Dan,
I wasn't too clear. Sorry.
I was talking about the front dinette bench, not the one you show in your photo.
In my trailer under that bench there was a storage bin that pulled out from the end into the walkway which left an unused space, where your photo shows the wheel well.

[TouringDan]

Alan

I understand now. Thanks for clearing that up. Here is a photo with the bench cover removed.

Dan

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

Alan

I understand now. Thanks for clearing that up. Here is a photo with the bench cover removed.

DanAttachment 363897

In my trailer that space did not have an outside storage access door like yours.

[TouringDan]

Alan

So you really did discover a hidden storage area.

I believe that I may install a piano hinge on the cover and do away with the drawer and it’s unnecessary weight especially since the sides and back panel are heavy particle board. This will be an improvement in my opinion.

Dan

[Foiled Again]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

Alan

So you really did discover a hidden storage area.

I believe that I may install a piano hinge on the cover and do away with the drawer and it’s unnecessary weight especially since the sides and back panel are heavy particle board. This will be an improvement in my opinion.

Dan

I like the convenience of drawers AND less weight and slightly more usable space from hinged lids. PITA aren't I?
A small drawer that is 6 to 8 inches deep with the big storage bin behind it might be the best of both. Put stuff you need frequently in the drawer (insect spray, gin?). I use canvas bags with heavy handles under my bed... easier to lift out and find stuff, especially if you label the contents on the handles.