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04-13-2017, 09:57 AM
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#22
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Walnut Creek
, California
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,952
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RD-See your point.
The floor jack in the picture does look a ways back on the frame.
One of the pictures shows a jacking point just behind the wheel, with the stabilizer not much more to the rear. Looks like a short trailer. That point is what I would expect for the recommended location. Located close to the axles so there is little to no frame flex.
The logic of not doing the rollers is that suspending the coach between the ball and the very rear of the frame places the most strain on the whole structure. Since the shell is attached to the frame, flexing of the rear section can deform the panels.
Edit - I would be reluctant to take that floor jack location as valid for anything but a frame location aid. It certainly does add confusion to the discussion.
Thanks for sharing. Pat
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04-13-2017, 07:33 PM
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#23
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3 Rivet Member
2012 30' International
Ferndale
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 101
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Just got back from a month on the road and the rollers works just fine again going up our driveway. The wheels themselves don't lift off the ground so only part of the load is on the rollers and I go slow and try to hit the transition square. Maybe a lift kit would be a better answer but then you have 3" of more wind drag and you lift the center of gravity up some making a little less stability on the turns.
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04-13-2017, 07:38 PM
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#24
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3 Rivet Member
2012 30' International
Ferndale
, Washington
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 101
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Also Pat, if you lay on the ground under the rear of the trailer the jack point is clearly marked. Mine on the 30' unit is quite close to the rear of the trailer and Airstream says it is OK to jack one side up at that point. That puts strain on the frame longitudinally and across the trailer torsionally and yet AS says it is safe to do. Can't imagine roller wheels put as much torque and longitudinal stress on the frame if you still have the wheels on the ground.
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04-13-2017, 08:19 PM
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#25
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
Walnut Creek
, California
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,952
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RD - Understand your logic. Sounds like your 30 has a very stiff frame. Thanks for the info. Pat
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04-25-2017, 06:33 PM
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#26
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Rivet Master
2013 31' Classic
billings
, Montana
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,648
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Not designed for this, better install a lift kit....
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01-29-2019, 10:50 PM
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#27
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1 Rivet Member
2016 30' Classic
Lander
, Wyoming
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 14
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I installed steel micro 3" wheel casters on my 30' trailer after bending the skid bars. I'll give 'em a try and see how they work. Here's how I installed them.
https://youtu.be/rAml7zmefbY
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08-22-2019, 10:00 PM
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#28
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1 Rivet Member
2016 30' Classic
Lander
, Wyoming
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 14
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The installation and use of these worked great - I've dragged across several low spots and the wheels stood up better than the skid bars. See my video - I installed them about 3 1/2 inches forward from rear bumper. I removed about 2 inches from the rear of the skid bars, and welded the wheels casters on the frame, same level as the removed portion of skid bar. They roll and don't bend like the skid bars did.
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08-22-2019, 10:06 PM
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#29
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,718
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Popcorn time...I'll wait patiently.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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08-23-2019, 06:04 AM
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#30
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"Cloudsplitter"
2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 20,103
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....the skid plate is made to 'skid', forward within reason, rollers just stop the noise so you don't realize you are dragging 🤔
Bob
🇺🇸
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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