Wiring to replace BIM with Victron Orion Dc/Dc

[randkell1]

2016 GT Ext
I am replacing the Precision Circuits BIM with the Victron Orion but before I do it I want to understand what I am disconnecting when I cap off some wires based on my inquiries. Adding (2) Lion Energy Safari UT1300 105amp batteries.

Victron schematic shows
DC input goes to chassis battery
Dc output goes to a 40 amp breaker and then to new lithium batteries
Ground goes to chassis ground

I need input on what am I affecting regarding the remaining wires on Precision Circuits BIM
1) dash switch cap off- cannot be used with lithium
2) gen set wire - was told to cap off
3) ignition wire - was told to cap off
4) I noticed an orange wire connected to the chassis battery terminal. Schematic calls it “battery monitor? Do I just add a terminal post and keep that connected?

[Sailfast]

Originally Posted by randkell1

2016 GT Ext
I am replacing the Precision Circuits BIM with the Victron Orion but before I do it I want to understand what I am disconnecting when I cap off some wires based on my inquiries. Adding (2) Lion Energy Safari UT1300 105amp batteries.

Victron schematic shows
DC input goes to chassis battery
Dc output goes to a 40 amp breaker and then to new lithium batteries
Ground goes to chassis ground

I need input on what am I affecting regarding the remaining wires on Precision Circuits BIM
1) dash switch cap off- cannot be used with lithium
2) gen set wire - was told to cap off
3) ignition wire - was told to cap off
4) I noticed an orange wire connected to the chassis battery terminal. Schematic calls it “battery monitor? Do I just add a terminal post and keep that connected?

Why not replace it with Precision Circuits LI-BIM? This works perfect with LFP batteries, easy to install and functions same way as before, only wire to cap off is the gent set wire.

[randkell1]

I have read that the precision circuits bim will only charge to 80 percent and then rely on solar to charge the remaining 20 percent. I live in Western Washington so I cannot rely on the solar to top it off.

[Sailfast]

Originally Posted by randkell1

I have read that the precision circuits bim will only charge to 80 percent and then rely on solar to charge the remaining 20 percent. I live in Western Washington so I cannot rely on the solar to top it off.

You may have misunderstood what the PC LI-BIM 225 description states about the 80%, read it again carefully at the Precision Circuits website. I don't know what LFP batteries you have, if they are BB's give them a call and ask about this product.

I am not representing PC in any way, I am just a consumer looking for simple solutions to a desired outcome. It is a product of the USA and works as advertised for our 400AH AI RV system

[Heckler56]

The two wires that would be deadheaded are the dash switch and ignition. The orange wire needs power or you won’t see any voltage on the tank/volt monitor. You should also provide power to the gen set meter or you will not be able to track hours used on the generator.

[Hawk-ination]

Originally Posted by randkell1

I have read that the precision circuits bim will only charge to 80 percent and then rely on solar to charge the remaining 20 percent. I live in Western Washington so I cannot rely on the solar to top it off.

The Li-Bim will charge to 100 percent. It limits the current flow from 15 minutes on and 15 minutes off to let the alternator cool off.

[randkell1]

Thanks! Regarding the gen set wire, Can I connect it directly to a positive buss bar? if so, do I need a fuse?

[Hawk-ination]

Here’s the wiring from an old BIM to a new Li-Bim.
I called Precision Circuits to verify.

BIM. - Li-BIM

Ignition. Ignition

Ground. Ground

Dash Switch. Signal

Gen Set. Eliminate (do not wire it in)

The Gen Set wiring, according to Irene Fitness’ install, states the old BIM would shut off charging to the battery when the vehicle was running and the generator was running. The new LI-BIM does not need the wiring.

I personally don’t know how it should be wired on a DC-DC charger, although I also think our generator is counting hours used without it.

There’s some electronics in the BIM that tell the circuit to be open or closed, I would think, so wiring it directly to the bus bar may not be correct in my estimation, but I’m not an electronics/wiring expert.

Here’s a bit of information that tells how the Li-BIM works, although I personally did not use it to refer to for wiring.

https://www.explorist.life/how-to-wi...tery-isolator/

[Heckler56]

Originally Posted by randkell1

Thanks! Regarding the gen set wire, Can I connect it directly to a positive buss bar? if so, do I need a fuse?

I will try to go look this weekend. I know I bought a couple blade fuse wires to install and I don’t see where in my notes. I had to lengthen the wire to get it from the jump seat to the buss bar by the water heater. If I did not it has worked fine for two years 😁

[randkell1]

Originally Posted by Heckler56

The two wires that would be deadheaded are the dash switch and ignition. The orange wire needs power or you won’t see any voltage on the tank/volt monitor. You should also provide power to the gen set meter or you will not be able to track hours used on the generator.

I have everything installed and wired but before I provide power to it to load the settings was there any wiring needed for the "remote on/off" jumper?

[Heckler56]

Originally Posted by randkell1

I have everything installed and wired but before I provide power to it to load the settings was there any wiring needed for the "remote on/off" jumper?

By remote on/off jumper do you mean the “dash” switch” on the BIM? That wire under my install is deadheaded so the dash battery combiner no longer functions. I carry a small lithium jump starter should I need it. After numerous one week boondocks my chassis side has never had an issue.

[randkell1]

No, to the left of the (3) wire terminals there is a green jumper cable that came with the Victron Orion. The directions say to remove it to allow you to program it and then it shows a couple options for wiring it to the positive or negative wires. Taken from section 4.4 of the manual- "Remote on-off
A remote on/off switch or relay contact can be connected to a two-pole connector.
Alternatively, the H terminal (right) of the two-pole connector can be switched to battery
plus, or the L terminal (left) of the two pole connector can be switched to battery minus (or
the chassis of a vehicle, for example)"

[Heckler56]

Originally Posted by randkell1

No, to the left of the (3) wire terminals there is a green jumper cable that came with the Victron Orion. The directions say to remove it to allow you to program it and then it shows a couple options for wiring it to the positive or negative wires. Taken from section 4.4 of the manual- "Remote on-off
A remote on/off switch or relay contact can be connected to a two-pole connector.
Alternatively, the H terminal (right) of the two-pole connector can be switched to battery
plus, or the L terminal (left) of the two pole connector can be switched to battery minus (or
the chassis of a vehicle, for example)"

Sorry can’t help with that, above my knowledge base. Looked at the manual online and it appears to be written by an EE. Yes you need it disconnected to “program” the unit and then there appears to be multiple variations to the units install adding additional products or not.

[Rocinante]

I know it's late in the game, but next time why not go with a simpler, less expensive, Victron Cyrix vs. an Orion? Our lithium / solar / inverter upgrade contractor with at least a decade of experience with Airstream van upgrades went that way, saying he felt it was a better solution for charging coach batteries while driving, vs. the Orion.

https://www.victronenergy.com/batter...tery-combiners

[JayP]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

I know it's late in the game, but next time why not go with a simpler, less expensive, Victron Cyrix vs. an Orion? Our lithium / solar / inverter upgrade contractor with at least a decade of experience with Airstream van upgrades went that way, saying he felt it was a better solution for charging coach batteries while driving, vs. the Orion.

https://www.victronenergy.com/batter...tery-combiners

Sorry to take this thread a little sideways but here goes.

Hi Rocinante - have you ever watched your amps into your lithiums while driving? What have you seen? I am wondering if the Cyrix will allow all 220A from the alternator until the batteries are full. If that is the case and your batteries get down to a 10% charge, that could be a lot of work for the alternator depending on how many AH you have. How long have you been running the Cyrix and how low do your batteries get?

[Rocinante]

Originally Posted by JayP

Sorry to take this thread a little sideways but here goes.

Hi Rocinante - have you ever watched your amps into your lithiums while driving? What have you seen? I am wondering if the Cyrix will allow all 220A from the alternator until the batteries are full. If that is the case and your batteries get down to a 10% charge, that could be a lot of work for the alternator depending on how many AH you have. How long have you been running the Cyrix and how low do your batteries get?

Haven't tracked this in detail, as our contractor assured us they put in the right sized Cyrix for our alternator. I'll have to look harder at this next time we're driving and charging. We had the batteries pretty low once in MI on the UP when we ran our AC off batteries until they were around 30%. When we got to our destination later that day they were back up to full charge, without any issues. Oh, and we have a pair of 200Ah lithium batteries.

[lewster]

Another positive review (actually many!) for the Victron Cyrix lithium battery combiner. I replace the on-board BIM with the Cyrix and have had excellent results with them. First, I remove the BIM and tape all of the 4 small cables going into it.

Then, I connect the 1/0 cable from your start battery to the Cyrix, along with the little fuse that is attached to it on the BIM. Then a 1/0 or 2/0 cable (depending on length) from the Cyrix directly to the new lithium house batteries.

Please note that a Cyrix unit is a 2-way device...meaning that it will not only charge the lithium cells from the alternator, but will also reverse the process and charge your starting battery from the lithium cells when full.

[Titus]

What does the two wire control cable of the Cyrix get connected to? You say to tape the 4 small wires. What do they do on the Precisions Circuits BIM that are not needed with the Cyrix? The PC BIM may not be the best, but mine still works - what is better about the Cyrix? ( I still have 2 Group 24 Lifeline AGM's, not lithium.)

[lewster]

The red wire goes to a positive terminal (with a 5 amp fuse added) and the black goes to the negative. A specific Cyrix is made just for AGM batteries. I would not use the lithium model unless you have lithium batteries installed.

[Dirkpitt]

Originally Posted by lewster

Another positive review (actually many!) for the Victron Cyrix lithium battery combiner. I replace the on-board BIM with the Cyrix and have had excellent results with them. First, I remove the BIM and tape all of the 4 small cables going into it.

Then, I connect the 1/0 cable from your start battery to the Cyrix, along with the little fuse that is attached to it on the BIM. Then a 1/0 or 2/0 cable (depending on length) from the Cyrix directly to the new lithium house batteries.

Please note that a Cyrix unit is a 2-way device...meaning that it will not only charge the lithium cells from the alternator, but will also reverse the process and charge your starting battery from the lithium cells when full.

I am planning a Victron Cyrix install on stock Batts. I get where start and house batts go what about Gen wire. Does it get cap or connected, if so where? my guess is that Cyrix can tell if Gen is on and disconnects batts if engine is on.