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StogieMan · 06-15-2022, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jondrew55

We don't have an interstate, but this is a fascinating thread to follow. Amazing with all these skills you can't figure out how to rotate the pictures! Joking aside, my pictures are from my iPhone and I never know how the rotation will appear when I insert them. I used to convert them to jpegs and then keep rotating them with editing software until they showed up right on the forum. It's a pretty cheesy feature of the forum software that image orientation is not automatic. Keep up the great work!

Thanks jondrew - appreciate the feedback and I'll figure this out one of these days!

StogieMan · 06-17-2022, 08:06 PM

I came a cross this product while surfing the net. Thought about it and finally pulled the trigger. I want to to let everyone know that I’m not affiliated with any of the products that I buy and pay for everything full price and trying to give you my honest opinion. I have no YouTube channel, review sites or getting paid for it in any way. Got that out of the way.

I was tired of that lag when I stepped on the pedal to get onto the highway. You know that lag that finally kicks in and gets the van moving while everyone in back of you is ticked off and gives you the stink eye as they pass you. Doing some research I came across this product and thought that it was maybe BS. But, I bit and ordered it.

I’m glad that I did. Our AI has a little over 37,000 miles on it. I saw bunch of reviews on it on YouTube and one guy got it and was very happy with it but after a while he sensed a small drop in his takeoff and it turned out to be the famous dirty EGR valve. After he cleaned it, he got his power back. So, I decided to start my venture with a clean EGR valve. I cleaned it myself and what a pain in the butt to get it off. Yup, it needed to be cleaned. Many YouTube videos on how to clean it and even a few on this forum. After that, I installed the Pedal Power module. Pretty easy install and the directions are straight forward. Make sure the van is off for a least half hour before you install it so that you don’t get any errors thrown up on your dash.

So, far so good and I suspect that when it starts to feel like I’m loosing some of that power - it’s time to clean the EGR valve again.

I’ve attached a video from Owl Vans where I got it from. Like he says the best feature is the theft mode that you can activate from your phone. Once activated no one is stealing your rig. In the beginning I forgot to deactivate it and the van would not move when you hit the gas pedal at all and kept freaking me out. I know many on this forum have talked about protecting their rigs for theft via cameras, Apple Tags etc. This baby works for that for sure.

Owl Vans has some decent products and I was going to pull the trigger on their exterior locker that connects to the door hinges until I saw that you needed to drill through the doors - nope, not for me. They do have some very nice gear and products for your van though. I was considering adding some more solar power with some of their solar hood flex panels but I think they’re more of a look for the AI 24X’s. No, not at all like the crappy Airstream flex panels that they use on the roof.

Again, our Sprinter is a 2015 but they have this product for the newer vans too. I’ve been seriously considering their RennTech though but haven’t got the green light from the boss lady. So far I’ve been happy since the install back in February.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diaAoj668mg&t=38s

StogieMan · 06-19-2022, 11:46 AM

We do not hot have any leveling jacks in our AI and a really pain in the butt to carry leveling blocks etc. due to storage space. I mean you could build some storage space under your rig like others have if you wanted to.

Finding a nice level spot is always a choir. Tried different different gadgets, bubble levels etc. that didnt work or inconvenient. I came across the LevelMatePro and purchased it. I waited a bit until the LevelMatePro came out as they still had the original and I wanted to wait for the updated one. Now they have the LevelMatePro+. I’m not sure what the differences are exactly except that I noticed that it now comes with a USB cable that you can use to keep it plugged in but also comes with the battery option if you wanted to used that instead. The one that I have has a 2032 battery in it. The biggest complaint was that the battery died too fast as many were forgetting to shut it back off after use.

On mine there is a bottom button on the right side that you slide either forward or backward to shut it off. I put a black line on it to know where the off position is.

Setup was pretty easy. You need need took take some measurements from axle to axle and from your one side of you outside tire on the back axle to the other outside side. You enter these into the app and it does the rest. You also have to pick an orientation as you have a few choices on how you want to install it. I chose inside our clothes locker on the drivers side.

I guess that during their update to the Level Mate Pro+ process they gave LevelMatePro users the option to update their software via the app to access some of the updated material and I chose to do so. Not sure what the amount was but somewhere around the $20 range. One of the updates was that it gave me access to use it on my iPhone watch.

Now when we get to the site or when we’re going to park for the night, we simply turn it on and use either my iWatch or iPhone to look for the best possible spot that is closes to being level. If I wanted to go all out, I could level it 100% using leveling blocks etc. but don’t feel the need to.

So, far very happy with it and it gets the job done for us in trying to get us leveled not 100% but close enough.

StogieMan · 06-27-2022, 08:36 PM

As a few here have done, we too did the kitchen faucet update. We absolutely love having the extra space in the sink. Makes it so much easier for food prep, washing dishes and everything in between. Again, I followed several threads on this forum for the upgrade and supplies needed. Pretty average install and probably the most difficult part was drilling a hole for the sink as you have one shot at it to get it in the right location. I had to redo the plumbing in order to make everything fit and installed a new Hepvo waste valve. I also added some metal shut off valves to complete the install. Next project is to install a water filtration system at some point. Looking for something on the smaller side to install right under the sink cabinet.

Along the way I also insulated some of the water lines. Actually, every time that I do any work and have the chance to insulate open areas, waterlines or drain pipes - I do. I have now over the years insulated everything on the inside.

We also installed a Cummins generator resonator to the exhaust pipe to get the generator a bit quieter. It’s still loud but more of a toned muffled sound. It improved it somewhat but not anything dramatic but a bit quieter. Install was pretty easy. Cut the exhaust at the right location and installed it using some muffler tailpipe sealer and two clamps. Got all the supplies from Amazon at a nominal cost. I think all under $60 dollars.

After the fan blades broke for the second time, I followed Pahaska’s lead and replaced it with this MaxXFan. A bit quieter than the original but not by much. However, it has an additional convenient LED light that we keep on at night and draws very little power. Install was a bit more on the difficult side as of course I thought that it would be a drop in replacement but it was not. I had to do some modifications to fit into the donut shaped spacer that Airstream provides. This is up on the roof and contours the roof line along with the raised grooves up there. After that, the area was caulked with a bunch of Dicor around the base of the fan. Inside was a pretty basic install though and if I remember I had to maybe drill an additional screw or the original ones did not line up on the roof of the inside enclosure but no big deal as you’re not going through the roof but just the enclosure.

We also installed a paper towel dispenser with an auto stop feature to a more convenient location above the sink. It’s been up there for a while and came with and extra 3M adhesive strip. Not sure where my wife got it from though. We feel that it’s easier to access than opening and closing the the cabinet under the sink. Another project that I’m considering is redoing the garbage cabinet area to house two bigger cans - one for the garbage and another for our laundry. Haven’t quite put it together in my head yet though.

StogieMan · 06-27-2022, 08:51 PM

Haha, I think that I finally figured out how to fix the pictures!

Boxster1971 · 06-29-2022, 04:45 AM

Hi StogieMan - this is a fantastic thread. You have done some great upgrades. Thanks for sharing the details and photos. I’ve done a lot to my 2013 Interstate- it’s a sad story that Airstream vans need so many upgrades to make a fully capable RV. I see they are now offering the awesome Volta lithium battery system for 2023 models.

I’m planning to replace my aged Interstate soon, but don’t have time to rebuild another Interstate. I’ll either get a new fully loaded Interstate at $270K or get a full custom build from Advanced RV $$$.

StogieMan · 06-29-2022, 06:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

Hi StogieMan - this is a fantastic thread. You have done some great upgrades. Thanks for sharing the details and photos. I’ve done a lot to my 2013 Interstate- it’s a sad story that Airstream vans need so many upgrades to make a fully capable RV. I see they are now offering the awesome Volta lithium battery system for 2023 models.

I’m planning to replace my aged Interstate soon, but don’t have time to rebuild another Interstate. I’ll either get a new fully loaded Interstate at $270K or get a full custom build from Advanced RV $$$.

Mike, thank you and it really means a lot to me coming from you. I’ve read all about what you’ve done to your rig and have gotten some ideas from you as well.

Yeah, I don’t understand Airstream, they’re so slow to move with the times and change. Never understood it. Then when they do decide to change something they only go half way into it. I really believe that the people that design the Interstate actually have never camped in one. Start there Airstream - force your designers to camp in these rigs for a full week. Pretty sure they’ll come up with some really great ideas and modifications!

Love that Volta system too.

Like you we’re in the same boat. Our rig is aging and we would love to upgrade it but I don’t want to be doing any more work this time around or do a complete van build myself. It’ll probably a few more years though.

However, our next one would be an ARV Class B one and not Airstream. I want to be able to customize it as owning a Class B all these years now know exactly what we want and need and besides, I have a bunch of bizarre layouts in my head. Ok, I’ll give you one - imagine an almost half size double decker type B van but not too high just enough to get a comfortable sleeping quarters upstairs and living quarters downstairs. I know a bit bizarre but ARV will work with you on your design and if it can be done they’ll do it.

Please don’t even get me started on a fully capable FOUR seasons rig. Love the way that ARV does that too. ARV does move with the times and the reason they have a waiting list for their rigs and command the money they get for them.

Now they questions is on what chassis. Still love and would choose the Sprinter 3500 dually though. I know this is a whole new round of debate.

I digress…..

Kstills · 06-29-2022, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StogieMan

Please don’t even get me started on a fully capable FOUR seasons rig. Love the way that ARV does that too. ARV does move with the times and the reason they have a waiting list for their rigs and command the money they get for them.

…..

I'm curious as to what you consider a fully capable four season rig to be? And how does ARV achieve that in the space of a Sprinter?

StogieMan · 06-29-2022, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kstills

I'm curious as to what you consider a fully capable four season rig to be? And how does ARV achieve that in the space of a Sprinter?

Straight from the horses mouth:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5YfZLSFNQQ

Kstills · 06-29-2022, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StogieMan

Straight from the horses mouth:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c5YfZLSFNQQ

Ah. I thought you were trying to get that kind of functionality on a standard B Van footprint.

StogieMan · 06-29-2022, 08:18 PM

Ah. I thought you were trying to get that kind of functionality on a standard B Van footprint.[/QUOTE]

No, you can actually get this built into any build that you plan out with them.

StogieMan · 06-29-2022, 08:24 PM

Well I started this project today but did not finish of course. I like to work comfortably so I pull out both sections of the lounge seat and the drivers side jump seat as well. This takes some time to take things apart. First I took off the the previous wire run that I ran through the grey tank stink pipe as this was a temporary run. I knew that I wanted a combiner box on the roof but since I did my install in mid to late January is was way too cold to work on the roof to drill a bigger hole and then try to seal it with Sikaflex & Dicor so I waited until now. Trying to figure out If I prefer working in 15 degree or 90 Degree weather but I’m leaning more to the colder weather.

I cut the wire from on top of stink pipe and pulled it down from in back of the access panel in back of the bathroom. Fixed the hole in the pipe with another screw in PVC adapter and siliconed around it it.

Opened up the solar cut off switch box and removed the wire. I already had the back locker panel opened from a few days ago doing a little prep work. Just a few screws around the perimeter and it comes down. If you look on the left side where I circled, there is a blue box and this is you control box for your awning at least it is in the 2015 AIGT. There is a little dial on it that you can turn up or down the sensitivity if you want to stop that annoying quick deploy of your awning with light a light wind.

StogieMan · 06-29-2022, 08:32 PM

I found the right hand corner of the locker the easiest way to run the wires down. I found it by shining my light from underneath on the top side of the driver side pilar. I took an electrical wire fish tape and fished it up from the bottom and up to the top of the locker. Taped both wires to the the fish tape and pulled it down. I ran an it down that pillar by pulling back on the plastic material and it fit comfortably back there. I ran it all the way down and across under the ATS box, under the hot water tank, through under the cup holder area and all the way to the the solar cut off switch. Not bad of a run just time consuming in these tight rigs.

I bought 25 feet of of positive and negative 6 AWG wires and I used about 21 feet for total for this run. I then cut the wire for the back up camera and pulled it out. I will butt connect it back when I install the combiner box. Pulled out the old grommet and some type of black tar material that they used. I needed to make this whole bigger so I drilled a 7/8 hole in order to fit both wires. Filed down the rough spots, cleaned up the area and taped it off. I used some Rust-Oleum paint on top and underneath the locker to prevent rusting. Put in a new rubber grommet and pulled up the wires. This is where I finished up for today on the solar wire side as I have a few projects going. Tomorrow I will install the the combiner box and finish the roof wire runs.

StogieMan · 06-29-2022, 08:50 PM

As I mentioned before, I have a baby circuit breaker box that came with the install kit that I wanted to install in between the ATS and the Victron in order to further isolate things when trouble shooting. Not a hard project at all. Unhooked the 10/3 wire from the Victron 3K and fished it out from under the hot water heater tank. Found a location that I wanted to install it right above the Victron 3K. Cut the wires and installed the circuit breaker. So now the flows goes like this:

Shore and generator power go to the ATS Surge protector box. From the ATS to the baby circuit breaker box. From the circuit breaker baby box to the Victron 3K. From the Victron 3K to the Airstream breaker box. This is just another spot to shut the Victron 3K down if wanted to trouble shoot. But I can already hear others saying “just another connection that can cause a problem”

Tomorrow I will try to finish the solar panels run into the the combiner box. I bought and received some of the 10/2 wire that I believe is proprietary to AM Solar. I will cut the the MC-4 connectors off and splice this wire onto the solar panel wires. It looks pretty good and beefy and ties into the combiner box with water liquid tight electrical connectors. I’ve attached a video from AM Solar too.

https://youtu.be/ZQ1DizeGkZM

Also on tap is to try to connect the relays into my Cerbo GX in order to control my generator. I’m going to also install a cut off switch for the LI-BIM 225 as well. If I have time, I’m going to putz around and try to get my SeeLevelII monitors to work with my Cerbo GX as well.

Lastly, my IRVWPC Water Pump Controller came in from Canada today and I will also try to get that installed tomorrow. Trying to get everything done before the 4th of July weekend or the wife is going to kill me!

StogieMan · 06-29-2022, 08:57 PM

Pics.

StogieMan · 06-29-2022, 09:19 PM

Lastly, a shout out to TitusNW that helped me figure out this picture thing. He left me a comment in my profile comments that I didn't even know it existed.

Thanks TitusNW!

Kstills · 06-30-2022, 04:46 AM

Quote:

No, you can actually get this built into any build that you plan out with them.

Did you actually watch the video?

There's a moment in the video (52 seconds in) where he shows the back of the van without the windows in. You can easily see how thick the insulation is on the side walls in that shot.

There is zero chance you can get that amount of insulation in a metal Sprinter platform.

They have no through conduction, primarily because they aren't using any metal. Not sure how you figure out that in a completely metal sprinter.

I don't doubt that this rig is built for 4 seasons (although there are significantly better and cheaper options for doing the same thing) but getting a metal van to achieve the same level of functionality would be very, very, very difficult.

StogieMan · 06-30-2022, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kstills

Did you actually watch the video?

There's a moment in the video (52 seconds in) where he shows the back of the van without the windows in. You can easily see how thick the insulation is on the side walls in that shot.

There is zero chance you can get that amount of insulation in a metal Sprinter platform.

They have no through conduction, primarily because they aren't using any metal. Not sure how you figure out that in a completely metal sprinter.

I don't doubt that this rig is built for 4 seasons (although there are significantly better and cheaper options for doing the same thing) but getting a metal van to achieve the same level of functionality would be very, very, very difficult.

Actually, I did along with a bunch of their van build videos as I find what they do fascinating.

I should have responded with “pretty-ish sure” that they can do it. The video was more to show how wide ranging their capabilities are. Again, every van is custom made for you with the options and features that you want. They have no standard build or options. You need to sit with them for 2-3 days to configure your specs. This is where you throw it all at them and they let you know if it can be done or not. If it were my build, “extra” four season protection would be on the top of the list for sure.

Would I be able to get everything in that B Box video with the same exact specs? - probably not. Would I probably be able to get most features with some mods and changes? - probably. That’s the great thing about a custom build. Yup, the price is up there though.

For me a “FOUR” season RV is important and making sure my water lines and drain pipes are not going to freeze, heavily insulated, holding tanks kept warm, capable of using it in very low temps and keep me warm inside. The rest of the features that they have are just a welcomed bonus and convenience.

From the ARV website:

“All our builds are four-season capable due to our battery and plumbing engineering. Some builds have deeper winter capabilities than others”

StogieMan · 06-30-2022, 07:23 AM

This is where I pulled the wire up from and removed the existing camera wire. Also, this is how I'm going to be installing it.

C box has some 3M tape under it. After, I will Sikaflex around the base of the C box and around the the exit hole. First though, I will fill the area around the hole with some Butyl tape as a filler.

Kstills · 06-30-2022, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StogieMan

For me a “FOUR” season RV is important and making sure my water lines and drain pipes are not going to freeze, heavily insulated, holding tanks kept warm, capable of using it in very low temps and keep me warm inside. The rest of the features that they have are just a welcomed bonus and convenience.....snip

Agreed on this part. Most folks aren't going to live in the cold, but they will occasionally have to drive through it/camp in it for a bit. Having access to the water supply is pretty critical.