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Old 04-27-2020, 09:09 AM   #1
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Yarnell , Arizona
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Where's the isolator?

Exactly... where is the chassis battery isolator for the early 2013 Ext?
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Old 04-27-2020, 02:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iaqstuff View Post
Exactly... where is the chassis battery isolator for the early 2013 Ext?
By "chassis battery isolator" - assume you mean the relay that connects or separates the two battery systems.

Mine is located under the rear lounge seat toward the passenger side. See attached annotated image.
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Old 04-27-2020, 02:39 PM   #3
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Mine looks like this. Not and Interstate, but a '2012 Avenue with many of the same coach features. The partial labeling was done previously for my own purposes.
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Old 04-27-2020, 03:27 PM   #4
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Thanks! I was looking for something like the Precision Circuits unit but it appears I have the solenoid in this unit instead.
My issue is the alternator is not charging my BB batteries, so now I'll go forward with checking the pre fuse (#4 I think) and order an isolator with a lithium profile.
Really appreciate the help! Both pictures cinched my puzzlement.

BTW, I was able to install TWO BB 100s in the original battery box. I think most are ordering the BBs that look like a normal group battery when in fact the CG2 batteries fit.

Again, Thanks!
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Old 04-28-2020, 06:49 AM   #5
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The coach batteries are charged by the alternator via the chassis battery. There is a terminal block on the side of the positive post of the chassis battery. Each of the cables out of the terminal block is fused, and one of these cables feeds the BIM relay. That fuse may have blown. I think the fuse I am talking about is different from what you are calling pre-fuse #4.
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Old 04-28-2020, 10:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iaqstuff View Post
Thanks! I was looking for something like the Precision Circuits unit but it appears I have the solenoid in this unit instead.
My issue is the alternator is not charging my BB batteries, so now I'll go forward with checking the pre fuse (#4 I think) and order an isolator with a lithium profile.
Really appreciate the help! Both pictures cinched my puzzlement.

BTW, I was able to install TWO BB 100s in the original battery box. I think most are ordering the BBs that look like a normal group battery when in fact the CG2 batteries fit.

Again, Thanks!

You'd probably do well to install a DC to DC charger between your chassis battery and your lithium Battle Borns. This will protect your engine alternator by limiting the charge load plus provide the Battle Borns with their proper lithium charging profile.

I installed a Renogy 40A DC to DC charger by routing my engine battery cable and ignition wire off the old battery isolator (after the pic was made) and to the new charger. Just had to make a new ground to the chassis since there was no ground wire back to the engine battery. Has been working well.

Renogy has come out with a newer 50A (combined solar controller) and 60A DC to DC chargers, but I'd be afraid to overtax my engine alternator with anything bigger than 40 amps. Besides, the the 40A, while fairly compact, barely fit in the confined space I had available. Their 60A model is bigger.

After my lithium upgade, the old Battery Isolator is no longer used for anything and sit's disconnected. I just didn't remove it because I did not need the space. I also installed a new 3000W inverter/charger that let's us use the microwave and to give the lithium batteries proper charge when plugged in.


Despite what lithium battery sellers say about their batteries working with your old chargers, they won't work as well or allow your costly lithium battery investment to last as long. A battery (state of charge) monitor is a good investment as well. The Renogy one I got for $99 shows charging, draws, voltage, and remaining battery amp-hours at a glance. Very nice to have.


Unfortunately, I did not have the display on in the pic below. I'll see if I can find another one.


.
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Old 04-29-2020, 09:15 AM   #7
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Thank you, Titus. We are talking about the same terminal block.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
The coach batteries are charged by the alternator via the chassis battery. There is a terminal block on the side of the positive post of the chassis battery. Each of the cables out of the terminal block is fused, and one of these cables feeds the BIM relay. That fuse may have blown. I think the fuse I am talking about is different from what you are calling pre-fuse #4.
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Old 04-29-2020, 09:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowiebowie View Post
You'd probably do well to install a DC to DC charger between your chassis battery and your lithium Battle Borns. This will protect your engine alternator by limiting the charge load plus provide the Battle Borns with their proper lithium charging profile.

I installed a Renogy 40A DC to DC charger by routing my engine battery cable and ignition wire off the old battery isolator (after the pic was made) and to the new charger. Just had to make a new ground to the chassis since there was no ground wire back to the engine battery. Has been working well.

Renogy has come out with a newer 50A (combined solar controller) and 60A DC to DC chargers, but I'd be afraid to overtax my engine alternator with anything bigger than 40 amps. Besides, the the 40A, while fairly compact, barely fit in the confined space I had available. Their 60A model is bigger.

After my lithium upgade, the old Battery Isolator is no longer used for anything and sit's disconnected. I just didn't remove it because I did not need the space. I also installed a new 3000W inverter/charger that let's us use the microwave and to give the lithium batteries proper charge when plugged in.


Despite what lithium battery sellers say about their batteries working with your old chargers, they won't work as well or allow your costly lithium battery investment to last as long. A battery (state of charge) monitor is a good investment as well. The Renogy one I got for $99 shows charging, draws, voltage, and remaining battery amp-hours at a glance. Very nice to have.


Unfortunately, I did not have the display on in the pic below. I'll see if I can find another one.


.
Thanks Rowiebowie. I will check out your suggestions before making more changes to the setup. Love the BB batteries! Their internal BIM resolved the problems caused by the original Tripplite. As we continue to customize we want to add 2 more BBs and corresponding inverter/charger items. I guess our end goal is to eliminate the generator and the evil looks I get if I fire it up - from my wife.
I appreciate all the efforts everyone has provided.
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Old 04-29-2020, 09:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
By "chassis battery isolator" - assume you mean the relay that connects or separates the two battery systems.

Mine is located under the rear lounge seat toward the passenger side. See attached annotated image.
The additional pics and drawings PM'd from Boxster were awesome!
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Old 07-19-2020, 10:32 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowiebowie View Post
You'd probably do well to install a DC to DC charger between your chassis battery and your lithium Battle Borns. This will protect your engine alternator by limiting the charge load plus provide the Battle Borns with their proper lithium charging profile.

I installed a Renogy 40A DC to DC charger by routing my engine battery cable and ignition wire off the old battery isolator (after the pic was made) and to the new charger. Just had to make a new ground to the chassis since there was no ground wire back to the engine battery. Has been working well.

Renogy has come out with a newer 50A (combined solar controller) and 60A DC to DC chargers, but I'd be afraid to overtax my engine alternator with anything bigger than 40 amps. Besides, the the 40A, while fairly compact, barely fit in the confined space I had available. Their 60A model is bigger.

After my lithium upgade, the old Battery Isolator is no longer used for anything and sit's disconnected. I just didn't remove it because I did not need the space. I also installed a new 3000W inverter/charger that let's us use the microwave and to give the lithium batteries proper charge when plugged in.


Despite what lithium battery sellers say about their batteries working with your old chargers, they won't work as well or allow your costly lithium battery investment to last as long. A battery (state of charge) monitor is a good investment as well. The Renogy one I got for $99 shows charging, draws, voltage, and remaining battery amp-hours at a glance. Very nice to have.


Unfortunately, I did not have the display on in the pic below. I'll see if I can find another one.


.
So I am in the process of installing a Sterling dc to dc charger on my 2016 GT and my bim is identical to yours. Would you have any details you can share on what wires I should hook into the Sterling from the bim & isolator?

If I understand it correctly I would grab the positive on the isolator and the ignition on the bim. Then create a new chassis ground. But what happens to the rest of the wires on the isolator and bim.? It appears my generator and inverter are also wired into the isolator and then the bim has the gen and dash emergency start boast small gauge wires.
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