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Old 07-04-2019, 12:57 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Titus View Post
We keep the spare electronic key in the glove box.
Not the safest place to carry a spare, since any thief or burglar is likely to check out the glove box first. I'd hide the spare someplace less obvious, such as in the rear under the cup holder that you lift out to access the low point drain valves (sofa-lounge models). Would-be car thieves or burglars are a lot less likely to look there.
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Old 07-05-2019, 06:33 AM   #42
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I am still trying to find the solenoid to have as a spare as I have seen reports of it failing. What I was not aware is that the solenoid can be replaced without having to replace the whole valve assembly... meaning, no need to empty tank... From the reports that I have seen it looks like what tends to go bad is just the solenoid.

I also learned that if the solenoid goes bad, I can still open and close the valve manually. Something that I was not aware of...

The challenge that I am facing is that I can't find just the solenoid... I can't even find a complete assembly that is identical to what I have. I want to find either just the solenoid or a complete matching assembly to have the option to just replace the solenoid or the complete assembly if needed.



What I have seem to be able to find is what looks to be a newer version of it. So not sure that I will be able to retrofit just the solenoid from that one to mine if it goes bad.



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Old 07-05-2019, 09:54 AM   #43
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Yes it is not easy to fine I purchased via Airstream around $180.00.
Changing the complete us a treat. Not easy to reach with I believe a 32 or 36mm spanner and of course it is clued in. Yes if you change it complete you need to remove the propane.
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Old 07-06-2019, 12:49 PM   #44
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SMEV-DOMETIC SINK REPLACEMENT GASKET - SOURCE?

Forgive me if this information has been posted elsewhere - I cannot find it right now.

I need to start carrying a replacement part for the problematic plastic gasket that is integrated into the SMEV-cum-Dometic round sink.

Does anybody remember exactly what substitute part will work in this application? Please post a link if you have done this, and/or know for sure.

Last time one of us checked with the manufacturer, they were not available for individual sale. So the solution spare part was jury-rigged.

Here's an abridged email excerpt from one person who did this in his Interstate, to show what I'm talking about:

"...the swing up goose neck of the faucet is held in place by a chrome plated threaded ring but it is made of plastic. In our case this nasty little plastic ring suffered from plastic fatigue and one day it broke into 6 distinct pieces.

We figured getting a replacement would not be a big deal ......... wrong! Turns out this tap unit is made by an Italian firm who supplies the fold down taps to SMEV which now is owned by Dometic. I was eventually able to email this Italian outfit in my best Italian only to get a nice prompt reply that they did not supply the replacement ring but would be happy to sell me a whole new faucet assembly. Obviously this did not go down well but at least I got a reply which is better than the (lack of) support I got from Dometic and the local Airstream dealer.

The eventual fix actually works real well and cost about $4 -- at Camping World I got a similar looking ( again chrome plated plastic) ring for about $3. Problem is it does not have metric threads so when you screw it on the Italian tap body it only goes so far before it binds. When the water is turned on -- in my case it leaked all around the ring. However when I tried a common garden hose thick gasket instead of the wimpy o ring [it came with], it worked fine -- Problem solved."
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Old 07-11-2019, 08:15 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
.....LP Solenoid valve: .... Looking at this part installed in my AI I realized that there is no replacing this on the road without losing all the propane in the process... humm....... LP pressure regulator ....
.
Building on Wachuko's excellent work with respect to certain propane hardware

*EXCEPT*

in my case, I've begun the process of researching the T1N Interstate hardware, not the NCV3 hardware. There are clear differences between different models of Interstate.

Similar to Wachuko, I conclude that replacing the solenoid is almost certainly a no-go on the road.

Or, it could be done, but it would require burning down the entire propane tank first. And then you better be 110% sure that you seat that valve properly in the tank, because if you re-fill it and it begins leaking, you are in a dangerous situation that would be basically impossible to resolve without professional assistance.

HOWEVER

The regulator is situated between the solenoid and the feed line. I think the regulator could be DIY'd remotely, in a pinch.

I've searched my photo cache and I have not yet found a clear picture of ours. I made this pic below when evaluating whether we could accommodate a line splitter to run a propane BBQ off the same system (answer: no, not enough clearance prior to the tailpipe and leaf spring).

Any T1N owners out there who have replaced their propane regulator or solenoid? If so, what did you buy?

This shows the T1N Interstate's propane regulator largely covered by a rock shield. I think it's a Camco, but I don't yet have the model number:



EDIT: This seems to be at least one cause of some failed regulators - there's a gasket of sorts between the two halves, which eventually lets go.

This pic by another user does not show the T1N regulator, just an analogous device.

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/at...2&d=1562441247

Thread:

https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=77473
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Old 07-24-2019, 12:11 PM   #46
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PROPANE REGULATOR - does anyone know for sure what the spec is for the T1N Interstate?

What I know - the NCV3 apparatus is different. I don't know if that's elective, or compulsory because of the design.

What I don't know - whether a "regular" Camco 2-stage horizontal regulator will work on the T1N's system as installed. They appear visually similar, but people are bellowing in the online product reviews about both compatibility and quality issues.

Numbered specs seem hard to come by with these things, which were mostly made for portable tanks.


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Old 07-26-2019, 06:26 AM   #47
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Bottom line on T1N propane regulator:

I don't know for sure. The conclusive determination could be made by disassembling the installed line to confirm compatibility, but I'm not prepared to do that right now.

It does appear that the Airstream owner's manual is in error on the part designation. I picked up a Camco two-stage horizontal regulator which hopefully could be installed without fanfare if necessary. But nobody can even tell me what the acronym POL stands for, or why Airstream might have specified that. Explanatory collage:

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Old 07-26-2019, 08:33 AM   #48
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But nobody can even tell me what the acronym POL stands for, or why Airstream might have specified that.
I think (but I'm not sure) that POL ADAP means that it has an adapter with right-hand-threading on one end and left-hand threading on the other. Meaning that it can be unscrewed from the middle of two pieces of pipe without taking the whole assembly out as you would have to with tight-hand threads on both ends.
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Old 07-26-2019, 09:27 AM   #49
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P.O.L. = acronym for company that originally made the valve fittings = Prest-O-Lite.
The POL gas fittings connection is notable for its reverse = left-handed thread.

At one time POL gas fittings were used in many countries, including the USA, but have faded in popularity. Now, OPD is widely used in USA.

O.P.D. = Overfill Protection Device
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Old 08-15-2019, 09:55 AM   #50
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Question

Reviving thread to see if folks have found friendly alternatives to code readers that support the newer Sprinters... did not wanted to derail another thread where this topic started to be discussed...

I currently have an inexpensive Autel MS309 Universal OBD2 reader... (US$22.00 in Amazon)... good for reading basic stuff... I also have a BAFX Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool adapter with the Torque Pro App on an Android tablet... I use it in my truck with an add-on for GM (BiScan for GM)... I need to see if a Sprinter extension is also available... without it I can't access Sprinter/Mercedes specific functions...



I am looking for one for my 2017 Sprinter Chassis (2018 Airstream Interstate EXT) that will:

Identify wheel speed sensor failures
Ability to cycle ABS during brake fluid changes
Force DEF regeneration
Read SRS, Stability Control, Airbags and Transmission codes

So more of the newer Sprinter specific common problem areas that a basic OBII reader will not access... And of course, I do not want to spend US$32,000.00 for a factory reader... nor US$800-1,500.00 Chinese clone that you have to put together...

So still looking for something that would work from the newer Sprinters and under US$500.00
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:17 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
I also have a BAFX Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool adapter with the Torque Pro App on an Android tablet... I use it in my truck with an add-on for GM (BiScan for GM)... I need to see if a Sprinter extension is also available... without it I can't access Sprinter/Mercedes specific functions...

So still looking for something that would work from the newer Sprinters and under US$500.00
WACHUKO - I noticed your radio screen, exactly identical to my wife's new Chevy Her Chevy instrument cluster has limited number of gauges to display all at same time even though she can scroll through them. So I also use TORQUE with a FIXD OBDII wireless BT plug-in on a spare phone so she does not have to scroll to see other gauges. Very convenient & safe for her. Been using it also on my F150 this past year with iCarsoft OBDII wireless BT plug-in on a spare Samsung Tab E. So far, pretty happy with this app. I love using simple round gauges below in my truck console.

I have not tried on my 2017 Sprinter, so I guess from what you say, it will need a separate extension for the Sprinter? Have you found the extension?
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:29 PM   #52
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...Have you found the extension?
Not yet...
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Old 08-15-2019, 07:58 PM   #53
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Not yet...
WACHUKO - no point in me lookng, if you haven't been able to find, prob. does not exist yet.
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Old 08-15-2019, 10:25 PM   #54
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I have an older Sprinter, but the MBII I have does lots of stuff, but will not cycle the ABS for flushing. I needed to use the MB software/hardware to do that . I donít have DPF Or the like so of course it wonít do that.

I had a ABS module fail (stuck valve) and tried flushing/activating fort. But needed to replace, and had to activate to bleed, and set adaptations. Plus match to my vehicle.
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Old 09-09-2019, 09:16 AM   #55
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<<pounds head on desk>>

We recently got back from my typical summer month-on-the-road and while the trip was a success in most regards, the sheer volume of my current onboard spare parts collection nearly had me melting down at times. It's crowding out stuff I need on a daily basis.

Context reminder: My annual destination is 500 miles round trip from the nearest location that is capable of properly servicing a Sprinter, and many of those 500 miles involve non-access-controlled roadways, so it's a very slow 500 miles if it needs to be traveled. If your travel does not take you very far from services, and/or if your Sprinter is younger than 13 years of age, maybe you don't have to worry to the same degree that I do.

Gauntlet hereby thrown down: I challenge people to concoct new, more efficient ways of carrying tools and spare parts. I need to re-think and revamp our system. This is going to require additional out-of-box rumination and experimentation.
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Old 09-09-2019, 09:25 AM   #56
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by InterBlog View Post
...
Gauntlet hereby thrown down: I challenge people to concoct new, more efficient ways of carrying tools and spare parts. I need to re-think and revamp our system. This is going to require additional out-of-box rumination and experimentation.
I have been meaning to do this... right now, it is a bit of a mess back in my AI... spare parts should be stored back behind everything that is often used and not in the way... tools should be easy to access from inside the coach or out from the back doors... I am missing one bag to store the air hoses, so the bag for the power cable now has the air hoses and the power cable has been without a bag...

Leveling blocks are still in the back and not under the drivers step...

I have been lazy getting to this...and it is going to bite me in the a...

Got a couple of work related trips... come end of Oct I will dedicate time to sort out the storage strategy and move stuff around...


Thank you for the reminder!


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Old 09-09-2019, 12:18 PM   #57
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WACHUKO - Big key for me is identical sized containers for each major area. It makes my organizing easier and interchangeable to move around as need arises.

1. For bottom area, deep clear containers that can carry very heavy items, like parts. Each of 5 bins carries designated items, 1 for hookups, 1 for parts, 1 for beach stuff, 1 for chemicals, 1 for flex-use as the need arises. The 2 most often used has to be behind the C/S door.

2. For midshelf, shallower clear containers (2 to 6 as needs arise) that can be pulled out easily from rear or couch/bed side.

3. For top flip out bins, it is important that they flip out from rear and couch/bed side as well. Dedicated to softer, padded, light items i.e. pillow, blankets, clothes.

4. For overhead storage compartments, we all carry identical duffel bags but each one has a designated colored bag. It guarantees all bags can fit interchageably in any but the smallest compartments. They come in 7 colors, we bought 6. Can you guess which is mine, wife, daughter, and kiddos

5. A day-glo orange tool kit that can be accessed from rear or slide out through small door under the couch. Like you, this is critical to be accessible from both sides. It has most of my small mechanical & electrical tools.

6. Everything has to ALWAYS go back in their designated container, bin, bag and compartment location.. Otherwise, the whole system falls apart. But there are also (one) spare container, bin & bag for flex-use. This is in case an emergency bug-out forces putting a muddy extension, water hose, dirty water shoes or beach blanket full of sand in a hurry.
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:29 PM   #58
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For me- on the T1N AI, I found that spares/tools need to be scattered around a bit in order to fit where I have spare space. So far this has been no issue at all - I have not used any spares yet in 50k+ miles. But I do a good service before longer trips.

For the 11,000 mile ‘around the country’ trip (and some other long trips) I have brought along a C3 and laptop with factory software (scanner). I also have an MBII scanner, for quick checks. I have not needed the factory stuff on a trip yet, but if something came up, that it the best way by far. With some things no other choice.

I have used the MBII once on a trip, checked a code, cleared it and it never came back. But having it handy it great. (I have had to use it a bunch in town- when I had a bad EGR, but it didn’t reliably show that code for quite some time).

The spare EGR I keep under the rear fold down seats- in front of the water heater (a small little cubby is there). Fits right in with my little ceramic heater and nitrile gloves.
Some other parts are under the sink, some in one of the cabinets. Most are in ziplock bags, so if I get a water leak or something they will not be damaged.

But that is just how I do it. I have pretty varied use, most often are day trips for off-road motorcycle riding (so I need all my riding gear, hitch carrier etc). Then sometimes I get bigger stuff I need (Sheetrock, doors etc). Then the 2-3 days trips. Then longer trips. All are different.
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Old 09-10-2019, 05:01 AM   #59
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For me- on the T1N AI, I found that spares/tools need to be scattered around a bit in order to fit where I have spare space. ....
The scattering is my essential problem. Tucking spare parts into void spaces is a disorganized pain while also carrying a bunch of off-grid / boondocking stuff including a chain saw, woodsman gear, kayak PFDs, etc. It's not working for me. This is going to require highly targeted micro-infrastructure to improve.
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Old 09-10-2019, 10:40 AM   #60
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The scattering is my essential problem. Tucking spare parts into void spaces is a disorganized pain while also carrying a bunch of off-grid / boondocking stuff including a chain saw, woodsman gear, kayak PFDs, etc. It's not working for me. This is going to require highly targeted micro-infrastructure to improve.
INTERBLOG - 100% agree. Tucking spare parts into void spaces does utilize space very efficiently but the disorganization and pain you mention it inflicts happens later when the need arises and is when you need that pain the least, so it negates all that space utilization efficiency. The AI already has tons of space that we can never fill because we would easily get over the GVWR. Case in point is my rig which is already 90 lbs. overweight based on my last CAT Scale weigh-in and that's without me trying to stuff every void space with parts & tools. If I did, and with my organization skills, I can easily go 1,500 lbs. over GVWR.

So rather than find every void to fill, the containers provide controlled areas that you can improve the "smaller targeted micro-infrastructure". They seem to waste a little more space by virtue of the limitations they impose on where they could be stored but they give in return the convenience and structure needed to access items easily. That container structure allows you to target your improvements differently for each container. Rather than using the entire AI as 1 big huge giant container, which is the pitfall of the disorganized. But you can't go crazy with 4 dozen different size containers either. Then the problem just becomes 'how to organize 4 dozen odd size containers'. The uniformity of container sizes plays a big role. Think of cargo shipping containers being loaded into a ship. All same size outside. But inside reveals another smaller container organizational structure.

Within each individual container, regardless of size you pick, you can completely scatter it's mostly related contents in a very disorganize fashion, but yet when the lid is closed, it presents itself as an organized unit.

Or you can take it 5 steps further (as I do, no surprise there) - within each deep container, you can create multiple levels dependent on frequency of use and/or need to easily access. This does not come easy. It takes knowing your needs (which you already do based on your more years of using your AI) but also takes some thinking out-of-the-box to put together a "5-layer jig-saw puzzle" that can only fit 1-way back into the same container. Every part & adapter & tool has only 1-way to get back into the fold, otherwise the darn thing would not close properly. See my pics below of the 5-layers of my Hookups bin. It is only 1-of-5 deep bins organized in this fashion. These deep bins are the hardest to make a jig-saw puzzle out of. The other shallower bins don't require as much 5-dimensional thinking.

1st Bottom most layer - the foundation, with 2 separate smaller containers
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2nd layer
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3rd layer
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4th layer
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5th Top most layer, with the single most important hookup item (for me - 20ft. power cord (not the 30ft) & 90 degree dogbone extension) but never filled to the brim, just in case.
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