Solar mystery

[Airlock]

Hi all

I have a new to me 2016 AI and there is an issue with the stock solar equipment (Atkinson controller and Sunexplorer display). Just recently the SunExplorer display shows 0 amps of solar energy even though it is a bright sunny day and the sun is directly overhead. Before this the display would routinely show 3.5 to 4 amps being supplied to the batteries in similar conditions.

Now for the strange part; when I push the start button for the genset, (I don't actually start the genset, just push the start button and the genset starts churning as if to start) the solar display goes from 0 to 3.6amps. And it stays that way for about 5 minutes and then goes back to 0. Every time I push the genset start button the solar amp display goes from 0 to 3.5 or 3.6 amps and then after 1-5 minutes it reverts to 0.

What do you think is going on? Loose wire(s)? Charge controller going out?

And one last question; where is the solar charge controller located? This is a 2016 AI 24 ext GT.

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.

Gary

[Gary W]

Do you have a voltage meter? What type of battery(s) does your rig have and how old are they?
I suspect that you have a battery issue particularly if you have automotive wet cell batteries. They could be sulfated from being discharge below 50% numerous times or run flat dead. Have them tested.
I have a 2019 Globetrotter with factory solar and when my batteries are fully charged the controller shows zero charge. When I turn on a heavy draw 12 volt load ( range hood fan - furnace -bath fans) the charge controller then will charge until the batteries are back to fully charged.

[Airlock]

Thanks for your response. I have Lifeline AGMs and they are brand new ( one month old). So based on your experience with the stock AS solar system, it would appear that my controller is working as it should.

[AlIslander]

I'm not an expert in these things BUT...
It sounds to me like your batteries fully charged so the solar is not registering a current. When you crank over your genset it is drawing from the battery so the solar kicks in and begins to top them off again.

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by AlIslander

I'm not an expert in these things BUT...
It sounds to me like your batteries fully charged so the solar is not registering a current. When you crank over your genset it is drawing from the battery so the solar kicks in and begins to top them off again.

This is a good theory. Id suggest the OP try another experiment to confirm. When the readout says no current, turn on a roof vent or stove vent and see if current starts flowing. That would confirm that batteries are just full and therefore the controller is not charging. Though I will say, my Victron controller always shows some current, even if batts are fully charged and in ‘float’ mode. Maybe .2 amps or whatever, but never zero.

[richard5933]

Solar will show 0 amps if battery is fully charged.

[Rocinante]

The Atkinson controller and the flex solar panel Airstream sticks to the roof are largely junk. You are right to be suspicious. Keep digging.

[Coffee Break]

The solar controller will only allow charging when your house battery voltage drops down to approximately 12.6-12.7 volts. If they are above this you will see 0.0

[StogieMan]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

The Atkinson controller and the flex solar panel Airstream sticks to the roof are largely junk. You are right to be suspicious. Keep digging.

Totally agree. The two best upgrades IMO are replacing that Atkinson solar controller and that flex panel. Easy to do and you'll see the benefits right away. Choose any Bluetooth Victron MPPT controller and for the most part any rigid solar panel.

[pcskier]

My Victron controller shows current even when batts are charged. Even if I’m plugged in to shore power for months at a time.

[Titus]

On mine the solar controller is under the lounge seat. HI have to remove the seat back then seat bottom to get at it. I first upgraded the magnum to a ME-RC remote with battery monitor kit then. Then removed the 50W panel and Atkinson controller and installed 200W solar and Blue Sky 252iX MPPT controller. As many have said, the Atkinson controller is junk and seems to be little more than a random number generator. Blue Sky solar controller does bulk/absorption/float charging, just like the Magnum.

[Backpacker]

I have the exact same situation in my new to me 2016 AI with the stock solar equipment (Atkinson controller and Sunexplorer display). Like yours recently the SunExplorer display shows 0 amps of solar energy. Mine also showed a number that had been supplied in the past. That also has gone to zero. I will try the trick with the generator to see if I get similar results.
Many people on this forum immediately jump to replacing the system. But the way I use mine that does not make sense for me. I don't do much boondocking (my wife is not a fan). I would like to get the 100w solar working at least to the way it was when new, if that could be done without great cost. My house batteries are also new. In fact it seems this problem first occurred when the batteries were changed. I wonder if something was unhooked when they changed the batteries. I am trying figure out how to test the system. I will post if I learn anything.

[Airlock]

Originally Posted by Backpacker

I have the exact same situation in my new to me 2016 AI with the stock solar equipment (Atkinson controller and Sunexplorer display). Like yours recently the SunExplorer display shows 0 amps of solar energy. Mine also showed a number that had been supplied in the past. That also has gone to zero. I will try the trick with the generator to see if I get similar results.
Many people on this forum immediately jump to replacing the system. But the way I use mine that does not make sense for me. I don't do much boondocking (my wife is not a fan). I would like to get the 100w solar working at least to the way it was when new, if that could be done without great cost. My house batteries are also new. In fact it seems this problem first occurred when the batteries were changed. I wonder if something was unhooked when they changed the batteries. I am trying figure out how to test the system. I will post if I learn anything.

The solution to my issue was pretty simple (and inexpensive)...replaced all of the solar connectors on the roof (they were in pretty sad shape) and everything works as it should. But...I've discovered that 100 watts of solar is not able to keep up with the energy demands of the electric refrigerator while camping. I really think that AS should have installed a dual energy (propane or electric) refrigerator in these units. Would have made life much less stressful and way more enjoyable at the campsite.

[Backpacker]

" I really think that AS should have installed a dual energy (propane or electric) refrigerator"

I agree that would have been nice but I do have a thermometer that has a remote. I keep the remote in the frig at all times and the base near the driver seat or another convenient location. I have found that the frig holds its temperature when it has no power far better than I thought it would. I also keep some ice packs in the freezer at all times. This causes it to act more like a cooler when needed.

Did you change the connectors on the solar panel yourself or did you have someone do the work?

[Troutboy]

I agree with others that controller will not charge if batteries are not needing it. That’s the purpose of the charger. Peter, that’s strange that you’re always charges. I wonder if you have a paristic load that is always drawing preventing full charge or perhaps the settings are set in a way that the controller doesn’t recognize full soc??

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by Troutboy

I agree with others that controller will not charge if batteries are not needing it. That’s the purpose of the charger. Peter, that’s strange that you’re always charges. I wonder if you have a paristic load that is always drawing preventing full charge or perhaps the settings are set in a way that the controller doesn’t recognize full soc??

Rob, and that’s even plugged in. Propane detector is on of course, and fridge is on electric but I think even it uses some converter 12v to run the board.

When not on shore power, fully charged, and all loads off via a cutoff switch, it ‘floats’ at very low amperage like a trickle charger. Basically my Victron controller is ‘on’ as long as there is daylight, albeit in ‘float mode’.

Plugged in to 30 amp service, here is today’s production. Note that the controller was active for 14 hours—morning till sunset. I think part of it is that the Victron settings for my Trojan t105 6v batteries are higher charging and float voltages than the PD converter/charger, so it responds accordingly to whatever voltage it reads at the batteries. When they are full (according to the Victron settings) it switches to float and remains there till sunset.

[Troutboy]

I’ll check mine again this weekend. But I don’t recall it doing this and I have all VictronConnect components. As you mention, might be settings for batteries etc.

[FredHadeed]

When my underhood generator is on, or my inverter is on, or shore power is connected, or my batterery is nearing 100%, then my solar panels do not charge.

[StogieMan]

Originally Posted by FredHadeed

When my underhood generator is on, or my inverter is on, or shore power is connected, or my batterery is nearing 100%, then my solar panels do not charge.

When you say “underhood generator” - is this an aftermarket generator that you had installed or an Airstream factory option? I thought that they eliminated the generator with the E1 package.

[FredHadeed]

I meant alternator, not generator. I have E1.