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Old 11-01-2019, 06:36 PM   #1
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Smoke from under the RS JumpSeat

1.5 weeks in and I seem to have an issue, and needing to ask others for their opinion.

The Coach was upgraded with 4 lithium batteries, redArc bcdc1240d, go power 3000w inverter/charger.

While driving into work today, I parked and noticed the pillows on the floor, so I had to go back and make everything look good by putting them back on the couch. While I was in the back I smelt something odd, ďbrakes? No thatís electricalĒ, looking to my right I see smoke coming up from the jump seat. Quickly removed the seat cover and grabbed the tools and removed the motor seat contraption. And this is what I see.

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The fuse is melting? I thought fuses blow, not melt.

Iíll take it in to get serviced, but Iím curious, about this setup.

The Bim 225 from my understanding isolates they batteries and if one is charging then they connect. Right, so they both charge?

Then if the redarc bcdc1240d can also charge the them both from solar and alternator (oh the blue ignition wire is not connected), and the inverter charges too (iím hoping this is just shore power charging)..... I have 3 things that do the same? Does this sound right?

So, one thing is for sure, that redarc while driving is pulling some major amps through it to melt the fuse but not blow.

What do you say, what should I look out for. Ideally I would like to disable all this stuff until I get it serviced.

Any wise advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
One confused owner. (So happy I went back to fix the pillows and blow this smoldering plastic out)
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:00 PM   #2
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How big is the fuse in that holder?
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:11 PM   #3
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Iíll have to cut it open, as the cap is melted all around.
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:23 PM   #4
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What is that fuse powering? Did you open the holder to see if there is a fuse in there? Might be something in there instead of fuse.

Who did your lithium upgrade? The Redarc Battery Chargers - 331-BCDC1240D is a DC-to-DC charger but I have no idea how it is wired into your system.
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pucky View Post
Iíll have to cut it open, as the cap is melted all around.
Please do. It needs to be removed either way.
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:21 PM   #6
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Ok wow this make sense why it melted. Thereís a 60 amp fuse in there. I thought the redarc wa rated at 40amps. So that sounds like thatís why it melted. Now try to understand why it was there.
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
What is that fuse powering? Did you open the holder to see if there is a fuse in there? Might be something in there instead of fuse.



Who did your lithium upgrade? The Redarc Battery Chargers - 331-BCDC1240D is a DC-to-DC charger but I have no idea how it is wired into your system.


Ok so, there was a 60amp fuse in there.

Yellow comes from solar
Red goes to + of chassis batt
Brown (this one) goes to + of house lithium.

Upgrade was done by the AS dealer I purchased from on order that was never picked up. I purchased it with this upgrade already done.

From my view point, it happens while driving so that would mean the alternator is charging. So could it be the Bin 225 has already linked the batteries and redarc is trying to do the same with a 60amp fuse??? This makes no sense.
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Old 11-01-2019, 08:35 PM   #8
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For good measure hereís the inside of the fuse holder. Click image for larger version

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Old 11-01-2019, 09:21 PM   #9
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Bingo, looks like they didnít read the installation manual.

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Old 11-01-2019, 09:42 PM   #10
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“They” could have burned your unit the the ground! If I were you I would point this out, ask for my money back(or else) and then find a competent installer to go through the whole system. DC breakers are Best for high current needs.

I’m not sure that wire or fuse holder is rated for 60 Amps. Shotty work for sure.
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Old 11-01-2019, 10:54 PM   #11
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You won't have any more problems since you removed the fuse. You just won't be charging the batteries off the alternator until it has been fixed.

I have used the same fuse holder but definitely not good for anything over 30A. The terminals inside are not that great (thin metal) so blades on the fuse can become loose and do not make good contact. That would cause increased resistance resulting in heat and a melted case as you have experienced. It's not likely that excessive current was flowing from the alternator. The Redarc should be limiting that to about 40A.

This would be a much better maxi fuse holder:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst.../dp/B000THTBZO

Or upgrade to an ANL fuse as recommended by Redarc. As mentioned, a good quality Bluesea or Bussman breaker would also be appropriate. A breaker behaves more like a slow-blow fuse so may want to drop to 50A size if using a breaker.

In addition you might consider upgrading to 6 gauge cable for that connection - depending on length of run. We typically use 4 gauge welding cable for a 50A DC-to-DC charger. LiFePO4 batteries will demand more charge current so your DC-to-DC charger will run at full capacity more often.

It is common to have 3 charge sources for your house batteries: solar, alternator and shore power. In your case the Redarc handles the first two.

All the best,
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Old 11-01-2019, 11:21 PM   #12
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Iím willing to bet that itís also linking lithium house to agm chassis via the Bim 225.

I donít even think I need that as the redarc can deal with two different chemistryís.

So I purchased this from an airstream dealer and flew in to pick it up and drive back to NorCal. I was thinking that buying a new airstream from an airstream dealer would have been no hassle. Nope I guess not.

I think Iíll have to call around to get some legal advice, I want the rig, but Iím starting to feel I got fooled and/or they havenít a friggin clue.

Thank you everyone for the help. Iíve order the redarc fk60 overnight shipping. Looks like the weekend will be tracing wires and drawing up a schematic.

Wish me luck. Still happy I got it, but something is off.....
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Old 11-02-2019, 04:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
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ďTheyĒ could have burned your unit the the ground! If I were you I would point this out, ask for my money back(or else) and then find a competent installer to go through the whole system. DC breakers are Best for high current needs.

Iím not sure that wire or fuse holder is rated for 60 Amps. Shotty work for sure.
PUCKY you dodged a bullet - consider yourself lucky this didn't burn your rig to the ground. I second shoddy work for sure.

That blade fuse holder is surely not rated for 60A, nor it is rated for 40A. Looking at the size of wire involved I would trust it for more than 20A.

A quick search indicates these type of fuse holders are rated for 30A maximum.

https://powerwerx.com/crimpable-inli...de-fuse-holder
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