Running AC on Generator Power

[jquayle]

Originally Posted by 73shark

The only one I would change is B4 to UP as the inverter will draw less current and it also will extend the life of the batteries. (according to the Tripp-Lite manual) It also was the change that kept the A/C from tripping off last summer.

Well I set the dip switches as recommended and then set b4 to up.

Let the rv sit for 2 days not connected to shore power.

Fired up the generator until the appliances all lit up and then kicked on the ac.

NO PROBLEMS!

Thank you all for the help. I think this problem has finally been solved.

[David M]

Originally Posted by jquayle

Well I set the dip switches as recommended and then set b4 to up.

Let the rv sit for 2 days not connected to shore power.

Fired up the generator until the appliances all lit up and then kicked on the ac.

NO PROBLEMS!

Thank you all for the help. I think this problem has finally been solved.

Fantastic! This has been working for me too. I also just set B4 to the up position to see how that works.

[Skater]

I've been thinking about this (always trouble). You guys have the propane version of the Onan 2500 or 2800 generator, right? The B190 had the gas version but it's basically the same generator, although on propane it'll produce a bit less power.

Even still, with the gasoline version, I could stall the generator with just the A/C sometimes, especially if I'd just started it. I learned to try to slowly build up the load - I'd always turn the fan of the A/C on high first and let the generator stabilize there, then turn on the A/C and hope for the best.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by Skater

I've been thinking about this (always trouble). You guys have the propane version of the Onan 2500 or 2800 generator, right? The B190 had the gas version but it's basically the same generator, although on propane it'll produce a bit less power.

Even still, with the gasoline version, I could stall the generator with just the A/C sometimes, especially if I'd just started it. I learned to try to slowly build up the load - I'd always turn the fan of the A/C on high first and let the generator stabilize there, then turn on the A/C and hope for the best.

Mine is the Onan 2500, propane. Generator manual stays start it no-load, and let it run briefly to warm up before adding any electrical loads. I shove the a/c thermostat all the way up before turning on the a/c, and then gradually pull the thermostat down to the desired temperature, so the a/c is energized before the compressor kicks on.

Never had a problem (so far) with my generator bogging down or stalling. Could be because a propane generator hasn't got a carburator bowl, almost like throttle-body fuel injection. But that's just speculation; I'm not an expert on the differences between gas and propane generators in terms of performance. (Mark your calendars, folks! Pro' has actually admitted to not being an expert on something!)

[73shark]

Originally Posted by Skater

Even still, with the gasoline version, I could stall the generator with just the A/C sometimes, especially if I'd just started it. I learned to try to slowly build up the load - I'd always turn the fan of the A/C on high first and let the generator stabilize there, then turn on the A/C and hope for the best.

My guy said to wait 'til all of the green LEDs are lit on the Load Monitor before putting any heavy loads on the generator like the A/C, microwave, W/H, etc.

[jquayle]

Originally Posted by 73shark

My guy said to wait 'til all of the green LEDs are lit on the Load Monitor before putting any heavy loads on the generator like the A/C, microwave, W/H, etc.

I would second that. The fan will run but the compressor won't try to come on before the green lights come on anyway

(At least with the Tripp lite)

[Skater]

Originally Posted by 73shark

My guy said to wait 'til all of the green LEDs are lit on the Load Monitor before putting any heavy loads on the generator like the A/C, microwave, W/H, etc.

Mine had no load monitor. My load monitor was my ears - "Seems to be running okay, load it up!"

[UKDUDE]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

In my 2012, the main battery disconnect doesn't quite disconnect everything. Here's what remains powered when the disconnect is switched off, based on what I remember of experimenting— and making mistakes— on my Interstate:
(1) Solar panel - but that's good. I mention this because the solar panel's charge controller is powered by the battery, not by the panel. A side effect of this is, if the batteries are discharged too far, the solar panel's charge controller quits working and the panel stops charging the batteries.
(2) Solenoid for propane cutoff, IF the propane cutoff switch is left on. Pretty hefty drain, about 18 amp-hours per day, if memory serves. Another Forums poster listed the actual drain, somewhere.
(3) Inverter, IF the inverter is set to "auto/invert." This means that if you left any breakers on, 120vAC appliances such as the televisions can still draw power— any television with a remote still draws some power even when switched off, otherwise it couldn't receive a signal from the remote to turn on. And of course the inverter itself draws power, too, to power itself even if no appliances are running. But, since you have a different inverter/charger, yours might be wired differently. Easy enough to find out, though. Disconnect any shore power and leave the generator off. Plug a tester into one of the outlets, leave the breakers on, leave the inverter on, and turn off the battery disconnect. If the tester registers current, your inverter bypasses the cutoff, too, same as mine.
(4) LPG detector— I think— but that draws less than 10 milliamps.
(5) The sofa recliner motor— I think— I'd have to check to confirm that, because it has been a while since I accidentally tried to move the sofa with the disconnect switched off. But that's not a draw unless you're trying to move the sofa. I mention it only for the sake of completeness.
(6) The television antenna amplifier. This is a huge draw all by itself, so you must always switch it off when you're not using the televisions.

The retractable side step draws off the chassis battery, not the house batteries. I think the power awning does, too.

I made this list by memory, so if I forgot something, or mis-remembered, I hope other Forums posters will correct me.

Protagonist, how do you turn off the television antenna amplifier? Is that the small button inside the overcab locker on the left side wall? Normally I see a green light in there.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by UKDUDE

Protagonist, how do you turn off the television antenna amplifier? Is that the small button inside the overcab locker on the left side wall? Normally I see a green light in there.

The green light is a lighted switch. Press it and the light (and amplifier) should go off. Be careful; it's placed unconscionably close to a 12v power outlet, which you do not want to press.

[rel]

I have a 2011interstate twin. I checked the to see if the red 12 volt shutoff would cut off the lp solenoid. If I open the red12 volt shutoff switch and light the lp stove it wit burn off residual gas in about 30-60 seconds, if you read the manual it states that the power to the lp solenoid is removed when you open the red 12 volt switch.

[rel]

I hit send too early... The manual states:

NOTE: As a safety precaution the electric gas shut-off solenoid closes automatically when 12-volt power is disconnected, cutting gas to appliances. It will reopen when power is restored.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by relehnherr

I have a 2011interstate twin. I checked the to see if the red 12 volt shutoff would cut off the lp solenoid. If I open the red12 volt shutoff switch and light the lp stove it wit burn off residual gas in about 30-60 seconds, if you read the manual it states that the power to the lp solenoid is removed when you open the red 12 volt switch.

Originally Posted by relehnherr

NOTE: As a safety precaution the electric gas shut-off solenoid closes automatically when 12-volt power is disconnected, cutting gas to appliances. It will reopen when power is restored.

My manual says the same thing, for a 2012 Interstate sofa/lounge. I've learned not to trust the manual in all things, because there are several mistakes in the manual, and several omissions as well. Some of the mistakes are holdovers from previous editions of the manual, where installed equipment changed from one model year to the next but the manual wasn't updated to reflect the new equipment. I've even found some errors that were cut-and-pasted from other Airstream motorhome manuals, or even Airstream trailer manuals, even though the information isn't necessarily applicable to a Sprinter-based Interstate. (note to self: Start a new thread regarding errors in the owner's manual).

I don't travel with propane appliances running anyway, so it's no big deal to shut off the propane before leaving the campground, and keep it off until I get to the next campground (or until I'm ready to do my monthly generator test run). There's no good reason for me to store my Interstate with the propane switched on otherwise. And if it's switched off, then I know it isn't drawing power from the house batteries, rather than assuming based on a manual that might be wrong.

[hamiltonmj]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

My manual says the same thing, for a 2012 Interstate sofa/lounge. I've learned not to trust the manual in all things, because there are several mistakes in the manual, and several omissions as well. Some of the mistakes are holdovers from previous editions of the manual, where installed equipment changed from one model year to the next but the manual wasn't updated to reflect the new equipment. I've even found some errors that were cut-and-pasted from other Airstream motorhome manuals, or even Airstream trailer manuals, even though the information isn't necessarily applicable to a Sprinter-based Interstate. (note to self: Start a new thread regarding errors in the owner's manual).

I don't travel with propane appliances running anyway, so it's no big deal to shut off the propane before leaving the campground, and keep it off until I get to the next campground (or until I'm ready to do my monthly generator test run). There's no good reason for me to store my Interstate with the propane switched on otherwise. And if it's switched off, then I know it isn't drawing power from the house batteries, rather than assuming based on a manual that might be wrong.

When I bought mine we didn't shut off the propane switch and went to eat. When we came back propane was leaking from a failed regulator. Shut off if not in use is my recommendation.

[jquayle]

Originally Posted by jquayle

Well I set the dip switches as recommended and then set b4 to up. Let the rv sit for 2 days not connected to shore power. Fired up the generator until the appliances all lit up and then kicked on the ac. NO PROBLEMS! Thank you all for the help. I think this problem has finally been solved.

So I tried to use the ac for the first time since I thought it was fixed. Drive for about an hour, parked and kicked on the gen and ac so family could wait in the car while I had to run an errand. When I and out it was roasting hot and the girls were just sweating in the car (before you think I left a baby in the car the girls in question were my 24yo niece and her college friend!)

Didn't check the battery level before starting the gen, but after driving the car for an hour I would have hoped it would be fine to run the ac.

[UKDUDE]

Below is what I posted in July. When you start your generator, keep an eye on the panel, and watch the dots disappear - and then see if your AC will run after that.

I'm still pretty new to my 2013 Interstate, but I do know the generator takes a little while before it can accept a load from any of the appliances. And the way to determine when its ready is to look at the Power Control System Panel. I am attaching a picture...In my picture it says "00 AC Amps". When you initially start the generator it will of course display a higher value than "00" but notice the value has a couple of dots in it, such as "8.5." After a few minutes, those dots will disappear, and that's the time you can start to load it up.

[David M]

Originally Posted by jquayle

So I tried to use the ac for the first time since I thought it was fixed. Drive for about an hour, parked and kicked on the gen and ac so family could wait in the car while I had to run an errand. When I and out it was roasting hot and the girls were just sweating in the car (before you think I left a baby in the car the girls in question were my 24yo niece and her college friend!)

Didn't check the battery level before starting the gen, but after driving the car for an hour I would have hoped it would be fine to run the ac.

I'm really sorry to hear that. After reading your post, I went out to test the AC because I haven't used mine since then either. And though it took a little over a minute for the lights on the Power Control System to light up, it eventually did and the AC is blowing fine (I'm in it as I'm typing this). Too bad you didn't notice what the voltage of your house batteries were. Mine was at 13.3v when I started the genset (thanks to my solar panel upgrade). Just a guess, but I'm wondering if your house batteries still wasn't high enough even after driving for an hour, and the power was still diverting towards the charging system.

[73shark]

If its a real hot day and your batteries are low, I'd recommend turning the inverter off before trying to run the air conditioning.

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by jquayle

Didn't check the battery level before starting the gen, but after driving the car for an hour I would have hoped it would be fine to run the ac.

You only need enough battery power to start the generator, and then to run the thermostat (which is a 12v system). If the generator started at all, your batteries were fine.

However, the generator has to KEEP running. The air conditioner will not run off the inverter. Period. Your post said the air conditioner quit, but you didn't say if the generator was still running. Was it?

Originally Posted by 73shark

If its a real hot day and your batteries are low, I'd recommend turning the inverter off before trying to run the air conditioning.

It shouldn't make a difference. As noted above, if there was enough battery power to even start the generator, things should have been fine, as long as the generator didn't stall.

The Auto/Invert setting automatically switches the device from Invert to Charge when another source of 120vAC power is detected. While the generator is running, the inverter isn't inverting, even if you have it switched on. You can only run on ONE 120vAC power source at a time, and the Interstate is set up so the priority is:
1 - Generator
2 - Shore Power
3 - Inverter.
If you have multiple 120vAC sources operational, only the highest-priority source is actually providing power to your systems.

The generator puts out enough power to run the air conditioner AND charge the house batteries; I know because whenever I start the generator to charge the batteries, I run the A/C to use it as a load bank.

[MILATV]

I think I may have had this same issue.
At mother in laws running mobile office in driveway and no shore power (afraid even at 20A ill pop a fuse)

Ran Jenny most of day to cool can down from 98 degrees, shut it down, batteries at 100% on solar indicator, 13.4v on test panel. Router, TV (used as 2nd monitor) and laptop all running from inverter (didn't check draw) worked for about 2hrs on battery an shut down for night (inverter and router left on all night - antenna boost was on also.

Next morning 6an, turned on lights, vent fan and got back to work with all office equipment. About 6hrs later inverter shut off with FAULT low battery indicated. 10.? volts. 12v systems (lights, fan) continued, and battery dropped to 8.5v fast, but of course the Jenny wouldn't start! (Why doesn't Jenny have chassis battery override switch like the engine does? Seems the biggest reason I'll need the Jenny is because my batteries are dead!) upgrade needed.

Anyway, after driving around for 45 min I was able to get battery to 11v and start the Jenny. Since jenny was running i figured id cool cab down but AIR wouldn't kick on. After about an hour of Jenny running the air started.

Not sure what inverter was set on during this time, ill pay more attention next time - of which I'm sure will be soon. 2014 Int Ext.

Sad I can't run off battery for 24hrs and operate equipment needed to pay my bills. I was really hopping to run Jenny for an hour or so a day to cool van and charge batteries mid day heat, but don't think this will get me there.

Ill try to recreate the event to see if I can duplicate. Ran Jenny for 3-4 hours. Battery indicated 200% on solar when I shut down.

I turned 12v off at door switch, inverter to OFF and left it for night will see how it is this am. (Sleeping in spare bedroom in house)

* frustrated *

[MILATV]

100% not 200%. Fat fingers - little keys