Our Journey Begins - 2018 AI TB Lounge

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by FlyFishinRVr

Looking good!

Will be interested to see where/how you install the remote switch for the ACR.

My plan was to install it in the front... where the blank switch pods are. Left dash area next to the driver.

I can reuse the cable that goes to the exiting switch. Red wire from ACR connected to Gray/Black wire that goes to switch.

I don't have a positive from the house batteries to the switch... and I do not have another wire that I can run the yellow (LED) contact...

Trying to look for any existing grommet close by that I can route underneath to the front... because trying to route two wires to the front, on the inside, looks like a royal pita...

Thank you for calling out the correct install. It is exactly how it is wired right now but I left out the inline 2 amps fuse...

I have two inline fuse holders that I will install. I did the install of the wires with male/female insulated disconnect terminals, so it is easy to plug inline the fuse holders. I just need to see if I have 2 amp fuses... quick stop to Autozone in the morning just in case...

Oh... photo of Bluetooth dongle for Victron... will install with double-face tape to the side of the cabinet. Below the USB port that is there.

I left the bottom cushion out to finish this tomorrow...

[wachuko]

Okay... let's finish the install... could not find 2 amp fuse locally. Will use 3 amp for now. Ordered the 2 amp from Amazon.

Will also finish the electrical for the air compressor...

Also checked and solar controller is working...

[wachuko]

Fuses installed. Repeater installed.



Now to figure out that switch for the ACR

Oh... and solar working fine... (sorry, new to this solar stuff and pretty excited as I see the wattage going up... )

[FlyFishinRVr]

Originally Posted by wachuko

Also checked and solar controller is working...

Gotta love MPPT controllers. With a PWM, you'd see about 5A going into the batteries because that's what's coming out of the panel. The buck converter in the MPPT controller boosts that by a good 20%, pushing an extra 1A+ into the batteries.

I was thinking about your remote switch install. I think the DC going into pins 3 and 8 are for the LEDs in the switch, and pin 2 is the control signal to select the ACR mode. The wiring for the control signal is already there in the stock momentary switch, so that one's already done for you. I'm sure there's chassis ground under the dash, so that should also be easy. The only challenge is the two DC sources.

I think you can save yourself some time by pulling that from up front somewhere, it just depends on how you want the switch (and the ACR) to operate. If you want it to operate all the time, pull DC from the chassis battery (I'd probably tap into the lower 20A cigarette socket in the dash). If you only want it to operate when the house power is on, pull DC from something up front that switches with the Main Disconnect (maybe the awning power found under the passenger seat?). I'd probably do the latter because it would pull from the house power, which you would want in the case where the chassis battery has gone flat and you want to force the switch closed (ON) to start the coach from the house batteries. This would mimic the operation of the OEM momentary switch and provide the same function.

Anyway, just a few thoughts. If you poke around the schematics a bit I'm sure you can find a connection that's suitable that won't require pulling something under or through the whole coach.

[wachuko]

Yes. It is that yellow wire (LED) that I am trying to route/install... there is some logic to the LEDs that I also want working.

I am this close to drilling and installing a grommet to pass that wire under.... this close...

[wachuko]

Wiring for the ARB air compressor is done!! Rocker switch in place.... all tested. I will try to install the switch for the ACR next to it (first I need to measure if it actually fits there or not).

Anyway, air compressor task is done. Routed wire harness via firewall grommet. Positive and negative connected directly to chassis battery. Harness comes with a 40 amp inline fuse. Well put together kit...

Installed everything back and took the wife for a ride (would you believe she had not been in it since we bought it!!

Only thing pending:

1. Yellow wire for ACR
2. Switch install for ACR
3. Make my bed (buy plywood, foam, some fabric), piano hinge, etc.

Bought a 12' gas hose with quick connects for the grill since the one that comes with the AI did not have a quick connect and it was too short.

Friend had taken his cornhole set so we ended up making one (we had committed to taking one regulation size to the Canopener event... rather than buying something that would come apart,we made one of real wood... Turned out to be less $... I sure hope it fits with all the other stuff we are taking on that trip

That is all for today. Merry Christmas!!

[wachuko]

Okay... running two wires from the front to the back... still need to figure out how to get them in the back... need to see where the positive house cables go in and try to get them through there... but in the front I have them all in place now.

Routed through the firewall, same doble cover (abrasion resistance and then the plastic loom cover...). Routed all the way back on the side channel of the water tank...

I need to cut that center plastic you see between the switches, so that the ACR switch can be install next to the ARB switch. Hate it that they do not look the same, but nothing that I can do about that.

[wachuko]

Done with the ACR switch... I hope I never have to do this again...

Getting under the AI was next to impossible... in some areas I just asked my son to get under it, because he is younger, yeah... an even he struggled.

I will replace all the fuses that are now 3 amp for the 2 amp (those should be here Friday)... but nothing smells like burnt melting plastic...

I ended removing the plastic cover that is next to the seat... the one that covers the rest of the wheel well. Drilling a 3/8" hole, painted, grommet with silicone under and inside... everything tie-wrapped in place...even used some left over silicone along the wire loom plastic as adhesive in case the tie wraps every fail...

To avoid having to buy a new corner cover (since the stock switch was still there) I removed the switch, remove the sticker around the stock push button switch (installed it on the inside to not misplace it)... and voila! no need to buy a blank cover...

There is a small gap between the switches. Need to cut one of the blank covers to fill that gap.

[wachuko]

Another thing that I did... while driving there was this snap crackle and snap (well, more like an annoying sound that I could not identify its location while I was driving).

Thinking it was the bottle dividers in the bar, I remove the dividers and took it out for a drive... creaking sound was still there.

Took the son out with me so that he could check the culprit... turns out it was the cover to the bathroom pipes. The one behind the TV in the back. As soon as he placed his hand on it, the noise would stop.

I removed the cover, used some gray 3M double face tape (did not remove both sides of the adhesive cover as I wanted to be able to remove the cover again easily)...I placed the tape so that a tiny bit folded over the side. You can't see it from outside, but it should be enough of a rubber cushion between the cover and the side panel grove. Installed the cover back in place. Will see if that does the trick. But at least I know the source of the noise.

I thought that I was done but the other thing I noticed (or have not looked in the right place), is that there is no outlet (USB or 12 volt power socket) in the back... I need power for the ARB cooler... I ordered a rocker switch panel with power socket 3.1A dual USB wiring kit to install in the back.

I need to build my bed... need to measure with the seats turned around to see what size wood paneling I need to get.

Then I should be done

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by wachuko

Then I should be done

There is no such thing as "done." Ever. All you do is reach a good stopping point so you can rest.

[InterBlog]

Originally Posted by wachuko

Done with the ACR switch... I hope I never have to do this again...

Getting under the AI was next to impossible... in some areas I just asked my son to get under it, because he is younger, yeah... an even he struggled.

....

Suggestion for near-future DIY project:

Either buy, or fabricate, some ramps for yourself. I made these out of discarded fencing scrap, by picking wood off trash piles as a new perimeter fence was going up around our subdivision.

With these, I can raise our Interstate up 5 inches, enough to use the creeper for projects that require extensive moving-around (the creeper is about $25 at Harbor Freight, if using a coupon). Or if it's a spot project, I don't use the creeper and simply luxuriate in the extra clearance. They made a huge difference in under-body quality of life.

You would, of course, have to make your rear set wider, to account for the dual wheels.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Protagonist

There is no such thing as "done." Ever. All you do is reach a good stopping point so you can rest.

Truer words were never spoken

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by InterBlog

Suggestion for near-future DIY project:

Either buy, or fabricate, some ramps for yourself. I made these out of discarded fencing scrap, by picking wood off trash piles as a new perimeter fence was going up around our subdivision.

With these, I can raise our Interstate up 5 inches, enough to use the creeper for projects that require extensive moving-around (the creeper is about $25 at Harbor Freight, if using a coupon). Or if it's a spot project, I don't use the creeper and simply luxuriate in the extra clearance. They made a huge difference in under-body quality of life.

You would, of course, have to make your rear set wider, to account for the dual wheels.

I have a creeper, so good there. It was the clearance issue. These AI have very little space to slide under.

So yes, ramps are needed. Not something that I will tackle making in the next few weeks... I will look at making those next year. I do have the leveling blocks, but proper ramps are in order...

Thank you for the link - http://interstateblog.blogspot.com/2...airstream.html - I will copy your design and build a similar set

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by wachuko

I thought that I was done but the other thing I noticed (or have not looked in the right place), is that there is no outlet (USB or 12 volt power socket) in the back... I need power for the ARB cooler... I ordered a rocker switch panel with power socket 3.1A dual USB wiring kit to install in the back.

I have a small truck air compressor that came with battery clips since it pulls too much current for a cigarette-lighter-type outlet. I happened on trolling motor plugs in a marine store and decided that is a great match. I have the fused female trolling motor plug installed in the rear of the coach and I can reach all tires from there with the cord and curly air hose. A good solution for anything that requires higher currents than the usual outlets provide.

[wachuko]

Another question that I had... sometimes I hear this chime... do not see any messages in the screen... I have my seat belt on, parking brake is down/disengaged, doors are closed... so I know it is not any of that. Just a chime... heard it again this morning when taking a turn. Single chime, not an alarm...

Just curious where it is coming from and the meaning of it... google search has not provided any info.

I will read the Mercedes owners manual when I get home to see if I find what it means...

Could be a text message or mail message and I hear it via the Bluetooth? Point of interest saved in the navigation?

Stuck in my head, so I must find out, lol...

[wachuko]

Oh, found the behavior of the ACR LEDs in the manual... posting here for reference.

[sthrngary]

I think I might know that sound. I could be wrong. My microwave makes that sound when it gets power.

Originally Posted by wachuko

Another question that I had... sometimes I hear this chime... do not see any messages in the screen... I have my seat belt on, parking brake is down/disengaged, doors are closed... so I know it is not any of that. Just a chime... heard it again this morning when taking a turn. Single chime, not an alarm...

Just curious where it is coming from and the meaning of it... google search has not provided any info.

I will read the Mercedes owners manual when I get home to see if I find what it means...

Could be a text message or mail message and I hear it via the Bluetooth? Point of interest saved in the navigation?

Stuck in my head, so I must find out, lol...

[AI927]

The GPS on my 2018 GT chimes at different times depending on location. If I recall correctly it will do it in school zones.

[AI927]

Originally Posted by AI927

The GPS on my 2018 GT chimes at different times depending on location. If I recall correctly it will do it in school zones.

I should have mentioned there will be a brief message at the top of the GPS screen telling why it chimed.

[wachuko]

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

I don't think the ML-ACR has a provision for a generator input like the logic module on the BIM installed by Airstream. It is there to prevent the batteries form being connected when both Sprinter engine and generator are running. Not a very common condition and one you can deal with by using manual control of the ML-ACR.

Mike,

Got a reply from Blue Sea asking for additional information. Looking at the diagrams that Gen-Set goes to the Generator Meter. A bit confused...

I sent them all this to see if they can provide additional guidance. So the signal from the generator meter running should be enough to isolate the two?

http://www.precisioncircuitsinc.com/...e-Shooting.pdf