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eric1514 · 04-09-2014, 03:05 PM

Is there some other way to perform this on/off remotely that doesn't draw .75 amps? That's a lot of amps over a 24 hour period.

toskeysam · 04-09-2014, 03:09 PM

The valve is a spring-to-close valve. The current draw is only while the valve is open....or your system is in use. A problem, maybe, if you need to leave the furnace on overnight.

73shark · 04-09-2014, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eric1514

Is there some other way to perform this on/off remotely that doesn't draw .75 amps? That's a lot of amps over a 24 hour period.

Several of us have added a second toggle switch inside in series w/ the external switch. Pretty handy when you're traveling down the road and someone wants to fire up the microwave or turn on the A/C necessitating firing up the generator.

Bikerbill · 04-09-2014, 05:40 PM

I'm in the process tomorrow of finishing a second switch in SERIES with the toggle. I've located the wire FROM the toggle switch to the propane valve. We're cutting in a second switch with an LED indicator light. It will be located on the plastic box/cover where the master battery switch is. I will mount it high up on the plastic box. The way it will be wired in series and downstream from the outside toggle means that with the outside toggle turned on and this switch turned on the LED will be illuminated. But if someone forgot to turn on the outside TOGGLE no LED. And if we approach a tunnel or bridge (something we experience up here in the northeast) that requires turning off propane tanks we don't have to get out and opened that stupid underbody box that requires turning the black plastic knob 87 revolutions

to open it and then close it and again remember once we are out of the tunnel to reverse the procedure. I will be able to do it from inside.

FYI, the best way to access the wire is to remove the right rear flip seat. Then only 2 screws hold down the wooden cover over the wheel well. Along the outside wall is a large wire loom. Located the smaller red wires and using someone outside flipping on and then off the toggle and with a 12volt test light probe, find the wire FROM the toggle which goes then TO the propane valve. Chose your location. Chose your switch. And soon a 2nd switch is installed.

toskeysam · 04-09-2014, 05:49 PM

Many thanks for the information. It will save many hours of wondering where to start looking. Good idea about the LED and it's position in circuit.

UKDUDE · 04-09-2014, 06:31 PM

Humm..... am I confused?
In my 2014 Interstate if I turn off the coach electrics with the switch by the sliding door, that also shuts the propane valve. So if you need to turn it off temporarily, such as when filling the tank or going through a tunnel, why not use that?

PSchw · 04-09-2014, 07:45 PM

I have a 2013 and found out the same thing. If I turn the main power off under the lounge bench my propane is turned off.

73shark · 04-09-2014, 07:47 PM

Those of us w/ older models don't have the main battery disconnect by the slider. It's under the rear lounge. Not exactly handy. Where's the one by the slider?

When I suggested this mod to Airstream, they thought it was a good idea so maybe in the 2015 model . . .

toskeysam · 04-09-2014, 07:50 PM

Same with my 2013, but would like the flexibility the second switch would afford.

eric1514 · 04-09-2014, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toskeysam

The valve is a spring-to-close valve. The current draw is only while the valve is open....or your system is in use. A problem, maybe, if you need to leave the furnace on overnight.

So this valve is only on coaches with 12/120v fridges?

73shark · 04-09-2014, 08:07 PM

Not sure what the refrigerator has to do with it because only the stove, generator, and the furnace use propane.

eric1514 · 04-09-2014, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73shark

Not sure what the refrigerator has to do with it because only the stove, generator, and the furnace use propane.

Well that's what I'm asking. Have Interstates always had electric refrigerators? If not, do models with propane reefers also have this valve?

Bikerbill · 04-09-2014, 09:08 PM

UKDUDE, If you travel the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel system, we're talking almost 18 miles of bridges and 2 tunnels. Why would I want to turn off my coach electric for that long a ride when I can install a separate switch to do the job from inside? Why would I want to stop at one end, many times in the rain, get on my hands and knees to turn off the stupid toggle switch where its located and then reverse the procedure when I get to the other end of the bridge/tunnel when a simple inside propane switch will do the job better?

Bikerbill · 04-09-2014, 09:12 PM

eric1514, I am not sure but I think all Interstates have had electric only refrigerators. And since the location of the actual propane tank under the center area of the van they need to use an electric shut off valve since you cannot access the tank unless you jack up the van on a lift. And if they did have models in the past with propane refrigerators they would have more than likely the same electric valve. I believe all the Class B Mercedes models we looked at in the past year from about 5 manufactures all had an electric valve on the propane tanks due to the location of the tanks under the body.

UKDUDE · 04-09-2014, 10:11 PM

Bikerbill, methinks you misunderstand me. The current and recent Interstates have an inside switch by the sliding door to turn off the coach electrics, and this also turns off the electric gas valve. No need to go out to that nasty black cover by the rear wheel.
Peter

73shark · 04-09-2014, 11:02 PM

The valve is necessary to isolate the appliances from the propane tank. This keeps them from being subjected to the fill pressure. In current models that includes the stove, water heater, furnance, and generator.

Bikerbill · 04-10-2014, 05:24 AM

UKDUDE, no I didn't misunderstand you. I know that one could just turn off the master battery switch and it would turn off the propane valve, BUT it turns off EVERYTHING ELSE. And you did not understand my reasoning for the 2nd switch. I don't prefer to turn off ALL RV electronics while driving thru bridges and tunnels. For one thing, people sitting in the back reading or whatever would have no lights while driving or the DVD player would not operate, etc. It just makes more sense to turn off only the valve in question.

Its recommended at your home in a severe electrical storm to turn off electronics devices, so why not just shut off all power at your home's main electrical switch in a storm?

UKDUDE · 04-10-2014, 08:22 AM

Point taken, Bikerbill.

Bikerbill · 04-10-2014, 08:46 PM

OK finished my install today of my "2nd Propane Shut Off" switch. I have not gotten an engraved plastic label yet, but wanted to send the finished picture along. I got the switch with from LEDs - flexible LED strips, LED modules, 12v LEDs. LED and I chose blue since the propane flame is "blue." Push on and light comes on, push off and its out. Since I wired it "downstream" from the toggle switch underneath the right rear corner, I will always know if the outside switch is off since I will not see the LED. Removed the right rear jump seat, removed with only 2 screws the wooden panel that is under the seat which gave us good access to the wire bundle. Found the red wire that is downstream from the toggle switch. Cut the red wire and spliced in a pair of 2 reds and 1 white from that area under the seat via wire loom up and over the back of the bathroom and into the cover over the black vent pipe. The white wire is screwed into the side frame of the van under the seat as you need a neutral/negative 12v connection for the LED. Works great! Nice "hearing" the tank valve operate from INSIDE the motorhome.