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Old 11-16-2012, 10:38 AM   #21
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I know a guy that tows his Element with an Airstream Sprinter. I think he flat tows it. He seems pretty happy with the rig.
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Old 11-17-2012, 07:30 AM   #22
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Not arguing that. Just can't overcome that visceral, atavistic fear of being on the road with the worst drivers in the world, in a car smaller than ANYTHING they might hit me with. Never mind the crash tests. Crash tests are not conducted by live people experiencing an, "Oh, my God!" reaction to three tons of metal approaching
My thoughts exactly about the Fit, but this post might alleviate those fears.

Honda Fit Crashes into G55 AMG: Mercedes Rolls Over - autoevolution

I figured the front end is protected with a double bumper once I installed the baseplate, heavier steel than the original bumper, to protect the rear I have installed a tow hitch mainly for a bicycle rack, wish it was higher.

Honda does post it's manual online, and it is approved in the manual for towing, automatic or manual shift.

Pros outweigh the cons of the Fit, for my purposes. Fitfreaks forum can show what people owning think about them.
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:24 AM   #23
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Interstate pulling a toad

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I've had my Interstate for almost a year now, and I've been thinking, I really like this whole RV camping thing. But one drawback to the Interstate is, once I set up camp, I'm awfully limited in my ability to explore surrounding communities since I'd have to break camp again to drive anywhere.

Plus, although I was fortunate in not having to evacuate for Hurricane Isaac, I may not be so lucky next time. The thought of having to abandon my other vehicle in favor of saving my Airstream Interstate really sticks in my craw.

I'm thinking of trading in my 2003 Durango on a smaller, lighter, and stick-shift vehicle suitable for towing. Maybe a Chevy Sonic hatchback, outfitted for towing with a Roadmaster system.

My question to the Sprinter and B-van community is this… Have any of you tried pulling a toad with your Interstate? Anything in particular to watch out for?

Didn't have an Interstate (not available then) but an early Spinter conversion with which I pulled a rebuilt 1983 CJ7 Jeep (3800 lbs.) Worked great, simple to hook up, did have remote braking activator, great for extra storage space (chairs, grills, etc) and was very handy. Downside was you couldn't backup much more than 6 inches (front wheels turned and jack knifed the toad). You had to plan ahead and anticipate, but no biggy!

4WD is very handy especially if there's a low-range differential that you can lock-out into neutral for towing. With this system you can do almost everything but fly or sail. Wish I could do it with the TT A/S.
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Old 11-17-2012, 11:24 AM   #24
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Unless I missed it, the primary question is what the Interstate is rated to tow...
Everything else is secondary.
The joy of the Motorhome, for me is traveling long distances without needing to stop and use outside facilities!

I am still a novice in the Toad zone, but a few things I feel are important to note, aside from the weight issue...
Personally, we want a Toad with mild 4x4 capabilities, so the Geo or Suzuki is on the list.
Flat towing any vehicle behind a MH, even with a stickshift vehicle requires mods. Tow bar, base plate, braking, and lighting.
Add those costs up... I had a shock!! I looked up the cost of towing my old Jeep Grand Cherokee... came to well over $2000.
Did I read somewhere that you should never reverse with a flat towed vehicle... because if so, that is an issue!
I am leaning more towands a good used trailer, so I can take what I want!
Of course, the trailer adds weight... but gains flexibility.
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Old 12-01-2012, 03:04 PM   #25
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Followup…

Just signed the paperwork on a 2013 Honda Fit Sport.

Do they train salesmen to act that way, or does it come naturally to them?
Me: "Dealer XX over across the lake already quoted me a price that's $250 less than that."
Salesman: "You're not going to quibble over $250, are you?"
Me: "Yes. I am. It will only cost me $8 in gas to drive to that other dealer. Sorry for wasting your time."
Salesman: "Don't be too hasty. I can talk to my manager…"

And later…
Salesman: "But look at the things we added that aren't on the sticker!"
Me: "$1400 for pinstripes, locking wheel lugs, and paint protection? Forget it. I'll give you the price of the locking wheel lugs, but not the cost to install them. I didn't ask you to install them. Paint protection means you washed and waxed it. You do that to all your cars anyway, and I didn't ask for it. I'd rather buy it dirty and wash it myself. And you added the pinstripes on your own, without me asking for them. Take them off; they're only a vinyl appliqué anyway."
They cheated a little, and marked the "add-ons" down to $89, which they claimed was the price of the locking wheel lugnuts, though I know for a fact that their parts department only charges $55 for them. But that's still a lot better than an extra $1400 for fluff.

And then, they computed the price of tax, title, and license BEFORE deducting the value of my trade-in. Which would have given them an extra 8.75% of $3000. I saw what they were doing, but didn't say anything about it. Especially since they also figured the license cost based on regular passenger-car plates, more than I pay for my handicapped plates. I just told them to deduct the TTL altogether. Since I qualify for a handicapped license plate, it will be easier for me to go to the DMV and take care of the TTL myself to make sure I get the right license plate the first time. It's NOT easier, of course, but it saves me more money.

Buying a new car is hard work!

Next step after I get the license plate and inspection sticker is to take it to Camping World and get the towing baseplates installed. I already told the insurance company that I'd be doing that, too, so the towing kit will be covered if I get in a wreck. The insurance company was very understanding about that, since I added the car to my RV insurance policy.
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Old 12-01-2012, 04:43 PM   #26
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Did you get the Sport manual or automatic? Or did you get the Sport with Navigation which is only available in automatic (why I have no idea)?
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:39 AM   #27
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Did you get the Sport manual or automatic? Or did you get the Sport with Navigation which is only available in automatic (why I have no idea)?
Auto. With navigation.
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:49 PM   #28
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We are contemplating this as a toad on an aluminum trailer. The trailer is a "yet to be determined" manufacturer and configuration.
BMW C 600 Sport and BMW C 650 GT - New BMW Scooters
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Old 12-08-2012, 04:56 PM   #29
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Next step after I get the license plate and inspection sticker is to take it to Camping World and get the towing baseplates installed.
Good news for me. No need to go to Camping World after all. My local Airstream dealer, Airstream of Mississippi (AKA Foley RV Center), carries all the parts I need, and said they could do the install. Much rather them do the work than Camping World!
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Old 12-08-2012, 05:18 PM   #30
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What baseplate does Airstream of Mississippi install? Roadmaster, Blue Ox, or ?

What toad braking system will you use along with lights (bulb or diodes) for the Fit?

Lots of money to spend getting that Fit ready!

Barry
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Old 12-09-2012, 03:59 AM   #31
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What baseplate does Airstream of Mississippi install? Roadmaster, Blue Ox, or ?

What toad braking system will you use along with lights (bulb or diodes) for the Fit?

Lots of money to spend getting that Fit ready!

Barry
Either one. Obviously they don't keep parts in stock for the hundred or so vehicles that can be towed four-down, and can order either Roadmaster or Blue Ox from their suppliers. I'm going with the Roadmaster system because it appears that the attachment points for the towbar will be higher, more-or-less in line with the bumper (though the sockets are still below the Fit's bumper). This means I won't need to use a drop hitch to keep the towbar level.

I'm also going with separate bulbs, on the advice of Airstream of Mississippi, who expressed some concern that tying into the existing lights would create a problem with the Fit's dashboard idiot lights concerning the lighting system. This seems to be supported by comments on the FitFreak forum as well. The taillight housings are plenty big enough for the extra bulbs.

It's a lot of money to get the Fit ready to be towed, all right. However, I'll thank myself for doing it the next time I have to evacuate for a hurricane and I can take both vehicles instead of driving one and leaving one behind to weather the storm. And, since I already got the okay from the insurance company, all I have to do is provide them with copies of the parts invoice, and they'll include the towing system in the insurance coverage. In the event of a total loss I'll only be out the labor cost for installation. That's one nice thing about adding the car to the RV's insurance policy; they understand toads.
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:08 AM   #32
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Thanks for the detailed answer. The only thing not covered is what supplementary braking system are you going to use for the FIT?

If you had a CRV toad, then one popular choice would be the SMI Stay-In-Play Duo. But installers say for a FIT that it is a very difficult install since the engine parts that to be tied to are extremely hard to reach on a FIT.

Also on the Honda CRV NAV units, there is a battery drain that seems to affect only the NAV units. So fuse pulling or a Toad Charge seems to be the solution for a CRV.

I would assume that your FIT with NAV might have the same problem. The FIT battery is even smaller than on the CRV. Any thoughts?

Barry
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Old 12-09-2012, 11:26 AM   #33
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Thanks for the detailed answer. The only thing not covered is what supplementary braking system are you going to use for the FIT?

If you had a CRV toad, then one popular choice would be the SMI Stay-In-Play Duo. But installers say for a FIT that it is a very difficult install since the engine parts that to be tied to are extremely hard to reach on a FIT.

Also on the Honda CRV NAV units, there is a battery drain that seems to affect only the NAV units. So fuse pulling or a Toad Charge seems to be the solution for a CRV.

I would assume that your FIT with NAV might have the same problem. The FIT battery is even smaller than on the CRV. Any thoughts?

Barry
Roadmaster Invisibrake. It includes a connection for the toad battery to be charged off the towing vehicle's alternator while underway, and requires no connections to the engine system except a tap into the vacuum line for the power brakes (it includes its own vacuum pump). I believe it also includes a check valve so that when the engine is running and pulling its own vacuum (vehicle not being towed) the Invisibrake won't interfere with normal braking. Unit mounts under the driver's seat.

You're right about the battery size on the Fit. I looks like a motorcycle battery.

I may still pull the fuse for the nav system, however, in spite of the power connection, just to be sure.
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Old 12-13-2012, 03:44 PM   #34
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It's a lot of money to get the Fit ready to be towed, all right.
Protagonist,

If you don't mind my asking, what was the bottom line on your install? I am in sticker shock after being told that with a Stay and Play brake system, Falcon- All Terrain, tow plate, plus installation would be $3,500. Your Sprinter was plug and play ready, correct?

I chickened out on towing a Rubicon and opted for a Wrangler Sport S model. It is four hundred pounds curb weight lighter than a Rubicon. I intend on removing the backseat (around 60-80#I am told), towing with near dry gas tank (around 90# saving) and possible using plastic doors (saving ~ 100). This will cut my curb weight to something like ~3450. My Interstate already has towed a 3200# Jeep Cherokee on it's inaugural run. We purchased our Intersate from a dealer near L.A. and to avoid paying sales tax in California we had to take out-of-state delivery. This entailed having a guy drive our van to Henderson, NV while towing his Cherokee. In Nevada we met a notary and signed our papers in a parking lot.

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Old 12-13-2012, 07:26 PM   #35
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If you don't mind my asking, what was the bottom line on your install?
Don't have a bottom line yet. I was supposed to take the car in and let the Airstream dealer take a look at it so they could order all the right parts. Instead, I'm in Oklahoma for my dad's funeral.

The install probably will happen next month sometime. I'll let you know then.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:24 PM   #36
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Protagonist,

Sorry to hear about your Dad. No worries about my question.

I may check with George Sutton, the Eugene, OR (home of the Ducks) Airstream Dealer, about setting up my Wrangler. Thanks for that idea.

David
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Old 12-14-2012, 06:30 AM   #37
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Protagonist,

Sorry to hear about your Dad. No worries about my question.

I may check with George Sutton, the Eugene, OR (home of the Ducks) Airstream Dealer, about setting up my Wrangler. Thanks for that idea.

David
My Airstream dealer's parts depertment has access to the whole line of Roadmaster and Blue Ox towing equipment. Glad I found that out, because the previous plan was to get it done at Camping World's service department. Given a choice between the two, I'll take the Airstream dealer any day!
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Old 12-14-2012, 09:08 AM   #38
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+1000 on that!
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:16 AM   #39
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I've been reading about towing with the Interstate and have found that the Sprinter is a unibody as opposed to a built on frame vehicle. It looks like a unibody vehicle may not hold up as well for towing as a BOF vehicle. Does anyone have any information about this ? Thanks
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:28 AM   #40
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I've been reading about towing with the Interstate and have found that the Sprinter is a unibody as opposed to a built on frame vehicle. It looks like a unibody vehicle may not hold up as well for towing as a BOF vehicle. Does anyone have any information about this ? Thanks
You sure? Winnebago makes a small Class A (their Via model) on a Sprinter frame. Several companies make a Sprinter Class C, starting with a cab-and-chassis. Sure, it's a lightweight frame, but a frame nonetheless.

Besides, it's not like I'm going to be towing full-time. And my Honda Fit has a curb weight of only about 2600 pounds, well under the rated towing capacity.
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