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Old 07-23-2020, 04:29 PM   #1381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
...

InterBlog - I have several of the pop-out buttons that I replaced with latching knobs. I'll contribute one if you want. They do not rattle.
Thanks... I think those need to be recessed, correct? Cuts have to be made.

I've been searching for a product that will surface-mount. I really like the style of the one I just bought, although obviously it has the potential to make noise.
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Old 07-23-2020, 04:56 PM   #1382
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Thanks... I think those need to be recessed, correct? Cuts have to be made.

I've been searching for a product that will surface-mount. I really like the style of the one I just bought, although obviously it has the potential to make noise.
They require a hole about 1" diameter.
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Old 07-24-2020, 05:45 AM   #1383
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Riffing on this product.
https://www.amazon.com/100Pack-Cabin...cf1284_p_1_i_p

Would a small dab of clear silicone, allowed to dry, be adequate to buffer the jingle jangle jingle and still be unobtrusive enough to be aesthetically suitable?
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Old 07-24-2020, 08:45 AM   #1384
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Originally Posted by Piggy Bank View Post
Riffing on this product.
https://www.amazon.com/100Pack-Cabin...cf1284_p_1_i_p

Would a small dab of clear silicone, allowed to dry, be adequate to buffer the jingle jangle jingle and still be unobtrusive enough to be aesthetically suitable?
It would if the problem were the tapping at the bottom, but it's not. Before I filmed those 13 seconds of my life that I will never get back, I cut a small piece of adhesive Velcro loop tape and stuck it on the underside of the bottom of the hanging part, in a similar fashion to what your product would achieve. It did not help, because the rattling is taking place at the hinge itself.
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Old 07-26-2020, 04:22 PM   #1385
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St auguatine , Florida
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Smallest mod ever:

A Grid-It cord organizer screwed to the inside of one of the flip-down cabinet faces. A bit inconvenient being near the floor, but I didn't want to waste more valuable real estate on it. I'm sick of cords cluttering up the place.

As well as having multiple needs for the the "old" USB cables, we now have to carry USB Type-C. And iPhone cords, and HDMI, and my Powerpoint projector is so old that it only takes VGA, which requires an adapter because my computer only takes HDMI.

Don't even get me started on the more elaborate device charging apparatus.

Sanity hint: Buy each type of cord in a different color. White for iPhones only; white USB cords are banned from our house. Black for older USB unless you have an application where high visibility is needed. I chose red as the color of my new USB-C cords.

I'm gradually consuming the back side of every cabinet face for organizational stuff like this.

I just ran across this. What a great idea! Thx for posting!
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Old 08-12-2020, 04:07 PM   #1386
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New solution for delaminating cupboard doors

We bought a 2010 Interstate several years ago, and most of the cupboard doors show signs of delamination. Rather than attempt to glue the veneer back onto the doors, my husband suggested buying some u channel edge stripping to cover the edges. I searched around and found some 3/4 inch aluminum u channel online, available at Lowe's which perfectly fit the bottom and top of the doors where they had delaminated. I think they look terrific, and thought I would share our experience. Some of the doors were slightly thicker (perhaps a previous owner went the re-glue route), so my husband fastened L shaped pieces to those edges with recessed screws. I have photos but can't figure out how to attach them. 🤔 If anyone wants to explain the process, I will post the photos if there's any interest.
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Old 08-12-2020, 04:31 PM   #1387
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Sounds like a great improvement!

To post pictures, click on the “post reply” button above this thread on the left.

Then on the little paper clip icon above where you would type a narrative, and follow the prompts.

I don’t believe it will let you post pictures, only.

You’ll have to describe them or something.

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Old 08-12-2020, 04:36 PM   #1388
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New solution for delaminating cupboard doors

Photos to accompany my previous post.
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Old 08-12-2020, 04:37 PM   #1389
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Thanks Maggie!
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Old 08-12-2020, 04:38 PM   #1390
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Very nice and sleek looking!

We trimmed out the bathroom door in our first Interstate in a similar fashion, when the edge began to chip away.

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Old 08-12-2020, 04:40 PM   #1391
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Those look fantastic nice way to spruce up the cabinets.
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Old 08-12-2020, 06:09 PM   #1392
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Not done yet, as I still need to add fog lights, but I replaced the front bumper with an Aluminess bumper with brush guard last night. With the $$$ I’ve put into the electrical system, I figured a little extra insurance against a catastrophic deer strike would be worth it. The Airstream installed bumper cover had seen better days and was becoming loose to the touch. I’m also looking forward to some bigger fog lights and will install Hella 500 fogs in the coming days. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-12-2020, 07:22 PM   #1393
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Originally Posted by Kjsrbs View Post
Photos to accompany my previous post.
Nice solution - thanks for sharing the idea.
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Old 08-13-2020, 03:15 PM   #1394
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Interesting. Is there a place in it for the Parktronic sensors and the temperature sensor that is near the bottom of the license plate? What is the purpose of the door on the top of the bumper? What does it add to the overall length?
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Old 08-13-2020, 04:51 PM   #1395
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Interesting. Is there a place in it for the Parktronic sensors and the temperature sensor that is near the bottom of the license plate? What is the purpose of the door on the top of the bumper? What does it add to the overall length?
No parking sensor holes in the version i bought. I probably could have ordered one with them, but they had this one in stock and I didn’t want to wait 6 weeks. I’ve never had reason to use the sensors. There are a couple of spots for the temp sensor and I’m still playing with where I want the final location to be. The door in the bumper is for the winch and storage of winch related supplies. I don’t have a winch and may or may not use it for anything, but it’s a pretty large cavity and has a keyed lock.
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Old 08-17-2020, 05:06 PM   #1396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kjsrbs View Post
Photos to accompany my previous post.
Very interesting remedy to a cabinet door veneer delamination issue. If able some additional photos of where the recessed screws were placed would be nice to see in addition to maybe a few added images showing a wider angle down the isle is you're able. So I'm presuming you've had no clearance or rubbing issues between the U-Channel and the top or bottom opposing edges/surfaces?
I presently have no cabinet veneer delam issues, but this look appears to blend well with the long horizontal brushed aluminum bottom rail and as often as these cabinets are open & closed that having a durable surface like the aluminum U-channel at this high surface contact area seems to make a lot of sense.
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Old 08-18-2020, 07:37 PM   #1397
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The only rubbing was on the one over the sink. I was able to adjust it upward slightly by loosening the hinge screws. I moved the middle screw to the other hole to keep it in place. There was a surprisingly large variation in door thickness. Some were a nice snug fit, some needed some shimming, and two had to have the channels converted to angles and attached with screws. See attached photos.
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Old 08-18-2020, 08:05 PM   #1398
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That looks really nice! Great job ����
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Old 09-18-2020, 11:12 AM   #1399
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TV & Mounting Bracket Out...Place For "Stuff" In!

OK, far from a match on the staining effort ¯\_(ツ)_/¯, but my wife says she likes the contrast. In two years of ownership we had not used the front TV once, so this was an easy decision to better utilize the space. Used the existing TV mounting bracket holes and the #20/1/4" threaded screw mounts inserted on the wall's back side. I see this being a handy place to stow about anything that can fit.

* SeaTeak 62502 Grate Front Magazine Rack (Amazon ~ $ 70.00)
* 4 Hillman 1/4-20x3/4 Phillips-Drive Machine Screws (H# 885554) (Lowes)
* 4 Hillman #10 Black Flat Washers (H# 885812) (Lowes)

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Old 11-09-2020, 10:07 AM   #1400
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Mini split for interstate

We decided to get rid of the noisy AC unit that marginally worked, so I installed a 12k btu mini split inverter heat pump last July and have never been happier, we've put 4500 miles on some of the worst roads and have had zero issues. It was a lot of work but for $600 its a dream come true, silent and will cool you down in the hottest of heat. The only way this was possible is I found flexible R410a refrigeration lines so the door is still usable. We leave the remote set on automatic mode so at night and in the mornings its warm and as the day heats up it switches to cooling so our dogs are not hot while we are out. I don't recommend this for anyone who doesn't have mechanical abilities and you must have the proper tools to install the compressor and head unit, pull a vacuum then pressurize the system. Also there is considerable construction on the inside of the door to handle the 70 lb compressor adiquity. The roof mount ac drew 17 amps when in operation and this unit draws 8.3 at full tilt then ramps down as the inside cools off. Future plan is to make a cover for the compressor then add five 150 watt solar panels to the roof and lithium batteries so this will also operate while parked.
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