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Old 09-14-2018, 04:18 PM   #1
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Interstate Exhaust Pipe Repair

With just over 100,000 miles on my 2013 Interstate EXT Lounge the exhaust pipe rusted through near the hanger at end of pipe. At first thought I might have to replace the entire pipe behind the SRC/DEF device. This is the insulated pipe that Airstream adds to bring the pipe out the passenger side in front of rear wheels.

On closer inspection most of the pipe is probably good for a few more miles, but the end had completely separated from the rest of the pipe. I got a 12” extension pipe from local auto parts store and a couple of 2.5” clamps. Pipe at end of break was fairly solid so I slipped the extension on with some exhaust pipe sealer and a clamp. Second clamp attached pipe to hanger that I replaced last year. The insulation was torn some so I wrapped it with aluminum tape and added a screw clamp to keep the insulation in place.

Hopefully this will be good for another 10-20K miles. Then I’ll have to replace the whole pipe. Looking back I may have aggravated the break by adding a heavy chrome tip to end of pipe that added to the stress on end of pipe near hanger.

Here are a few photos of the final results.

Has anyone else had to replace the Airstream installed exhaust pipe yet?
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Old 09-14-2018, 06:47 PM   #2
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Just went out and looked at mine. 2013, 60,000 miles, no chrome tip. All is solid.
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Old 09-14-2018, 07:52 PM   #3
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My taik pipe fell off right at the bracket. Did your new pipe slip over the insulated pipe
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Old 09-14-2018, 07:58 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Docevil87 View Post
My taik pipe fell off right at the bracket. Did your new pipe slip over the insulated pipe
Haven’t tried to remove rusted clamp yet looks like it will be a bitch any suggestions. I see I might have a little bit of pipe behind clamp
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Old 09-14-2018, 08:04 PM   #5
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MIKE - Isn't that premature for an MB part to rust through even at 100k miles? Or is this just the result of winter driving deterioration? Apologies, I have to admit, I have no frame of reference as to effects of winter on cars long term because I left Chicago 35 yrs. ago and during that time, I drove brand new HP Company cars issued to us every 12 mos. All my personal cars never saw an inch of snow/salt. So when I hear things rusting through on relatively young vehicles like yours, I did not expect it.
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:34 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxster1971 View Post
With just over 100,000 miles on my 2013 Interstate EXT Lounge the exhaust pipe rusted through near the hanger at end of pipe. At first thought I might have to replace the entire pipe behind the SRC/DEF device. This is the insulated pipe that Airstream adds to bring the pipe out the passenger side in front of rear wheels.

On closer inspection most of the pipe is probably good for a few more miles, but the end had completely separated from the rest of the pipe. I got a 12” extension pipe from local auto parts store and a couple of 2.5” clamps. Pipe at end of break was fairly solid so I slipped the extension on with some exhaust pipe sealer and a clamp. Second clamp attached pipe to hanger that I replaced last year. The insulation was torn some so I wrapped it with aluminum tape and added a screw clamp to keep the insulation in place.

Hopefully this will be good for another 10-20K miles. Then I’ll have to replace the whole pipe. Looking back I may have aggravated the break by adding a heavy chrome tip to end of pipe that added to the stress on end of pipe near hanger.

Here are a few photos of the final results.

Has anyone else had to replace the Airstream installed exhaust pipe yet?
Attachment 322540
Attachment 322541
It was more likely the cheap, mild steel pipe that Airstream used rather than the chrome tip. I had a polished StSt tip on mine w/ no degradation but didn't drive in the salt season. Also my tailpipe was not insulated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Docevil87 View Post
Haven’t tried to remove rusted clamp yet looks like it will be a bitch any suggestions.
Sawzall or cutting torch should do it.
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Docevil87 View Post
My taik pipe fell off right at the bracket. Did your new pipe slip over the insulated pipe
I peeled back some of the insulation and the new pipe slipped over the old pipe that was solid at that point. the only way to remove old rusted clamps is to cut them - you cant loosen those old clamp bolts.
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:49 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Alex AVI View Post
MIKE - Isn't that premature for an MB part to rust through even at 100k miles? Or is this just the result of winter driving deterioration? Apologies, I have to admit, I have no frame of reference as to effects of winter on cars long term because I left Chicago 35 yrs. ago and during that time, I drove brand new HP Company cars issued to us every 12 mos. All my personal cars never saw an inch of snow/salt. So when I hear things rusting through on relatively young vehicles like yours, I did not expect it.
It would be premature if Airstream had used stainless steel for the new pipe they added. But they did not - only standard mild steel. The new Interstates I saw at Hershey this week looked like they might now be using SS pipe - that we be a good change.
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Old 09-15-2018, 02:52 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by 73shark View Post
It was more likely the cheap, mild steel pipe that Airstream used rather than the chrome tip. I had a polished StSt tip on mine w/ no degradation but didn't drive in the salt season. Also my tailpipe was not insulated....
I drove mine to Minnesota in February a few years ago. That guaranteed rust.
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Old 09-15-2018, 03:02 PM   #10
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I lived in Minneapolis for three winters in the early 70s and replaced the exhaust system from the manifolds back twice on my 68 GTO. But that was back when you could only get 18 ga mild steel.
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Old 09-15-2018, 06:22 PM   #11
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Thanks boxster ready to tackle project.
Was at hershey on friday, really liked the LTV murphy bed. If it had 4 seat belts may hsve pulled the trigger.
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Old 09-16-2018, 10:09 AM   #12
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Thanks boxster ready to tackle project.
Was at hershey on friday, really liked the LTV murphy bed. If it had 4 seat belts may hsve pulled the trigger.

Those are exactly the same parts I used. I used some Permatex exhaust sealer in a tube to seal joint. I cut the end of pipe off a bit because I didn't like that sharpe edge of the pipe sticking out near the sliding door.

Next I think I'm going to get a piece of thin aluminum and wrap it over the pipe insulation then secure it with a couple of screw clamps. The insulation near the end of my pipe is seriously deteriorated.
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Old 09-16-2018, 11:41 AM   #13
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Project complete. Thanks boxster. Not sure how long it will last hanger is pretty rusted and remaining pipe had some rust. I like the idea of wrapping it it stainless. Saw that at autozone. May go back and get it. I also used exhaustt cement at joint. Nice 18 dollar repair.
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Old 05-28-2021, 01:13 PM   #14
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I mentioned replacing my tailpipe after the AEM done by dealer in the thread that discusses the BlueTEC Approved Emissions Modification (AEM).
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f24...-221039-3.html

Thought it was more appropriate to post some details of repair in this thread topic.

Had my 2012 Sprinter updated with the AEM, which involved installing a new Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) unit, a four foot section of the exhaust system. My old tailpipe was too rusted to be reinstalled. The dealer could not get parts or have a new tailpipe fabricated. That part of the AEM work was at my expense.

Tried several local muffler shops - but did not find one that would do the work for me. I contacted my Airstream dealer - the exhaust parts I need are $787 and not in stock so it could take weeks to get them. My only other option was trying one of the local RV repair shops - but that will be expensive and I don't want to drive the van again without a tail pipe.

I ordered 2.5 inch stainless steel tail pipe parts off eBay and sourced some heavy duty SS exhaust pipe butt joint connectors. Also made my own heat shields from 4 inch aluminum duct pipe. Total cost was $250 plus a couple of days working under the van in my driveway.

Attaching a few photos for information. This SS tailpipe should last a long time, unlike the original mild steel tailpipe installed by Airstream.
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Old 06-01-2021, 07:29 AM   #15
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Looks like a good repair. There is a small custom exhaust guy in Monrovia if you ever need that kind of work again. Also regarding the heat shield, Summit Racing & Jegs carry header wrap which insulates the pipe if you find that the aluminum shield transmits too much heat.

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Old 06-01-2021, 06:41 PM   #16
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Looks like a good repair. There is a small custom exhaust guy in Monrovia if you ever need that kind of work again. Also regarding the heat shield, Summit Racing & Jegs carry header wrap which insulates the pipe if you find that the aluminum shield transmits too much heat.

Ben
Thanks Ben. Repair seems to be working well and the heat shields are working great. I looked at various header wraps including Summit Racing and Jegs. Wanted to avoid a wrap like the stock Airstream setup as it just held water and promoted rust on the original trail pipe. The end of the tailpipe never get hot enough to evaporate all the water trapped by a wrap.
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Old 06-01-2021, 07:51 PM   #17
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Boxster,
Nice job. You did much better than the MB technicians that did our “MB Approved Emissions Modification”. They had to install a new DPF and SCR and didn’t bother to measure the final length of the tailpipe. On the way home, the pipe melted a new notch in the plastic trim during a regen cycle. Saved me the trouble of cutting out a new notch
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Old 06-02-2021, 09:27 AM   #18
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Mike/Boxster-

Could you give more details on the exhaust pipe parts that you got to replace your old exhaust? Since I presume you did not have a pipe bender you must have been able to order the exact parts to put together to fit.

Also, where did you get your stainless connectors?

Finally, how did you attach your heat shields around or above the exhaust?

I survived the AEM repair without replacing the exhaust pipe, however it is rusted in places and is just a matter of time.

I sympathize with BurntAsphalt. When I got ready to leave the dealer after the AEM and did my normal double check of their repair, I noticed that my exhaust no longer exited in the middle of the existing cutout. It was only about a half inch from the edge. They put it back up on the rack and re-aligned the exhaust.

Thanks,

Tim
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Old 06-02-2021, 10:11 AM   #19
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Boxster,
Nice job. You did much better than the MB technicians that did our “MB Approved Emissions Modification”. They had to install a new DPF and SCR and didn’t bother to measure the final length of the tailpipe. On the way home, the pipe melted a new notch in the plastic trim during a regen cycle. Saved me the trouble of cutting out a new notch
At least you went home with a tailpipe. My dealer sent me home with an exhaust system that ended at the new SCR, about mid-van as seen in first attached photo. I didn't want to drive it any more than the short trip home. That was mainly why I chose to make repair myself in my driveway. Happy with the final results as seen in second attached photo of exterior with new tailpipe.
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Old 06-02-2021, 11:28 AM   #20
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Mike/Boxster-

Could you give more details on the exhaust pipe parts that you got to replace your old exhaust? Since I presume you did not have a pipe bender you must have been able to order the exact parts to put together to fit.

Also, where did you get your stainless connectors?

Finally, how did you attach your heat shields around or above the exhaust?

I survived the AEM repair without replacing the exhaust pipe, however it is rusted in places and is just a matter of time.

I sympathize with BurntAsphalt. When I got ready to leave the dealer after the AEM and did my normal double check of their repair, I noticed that my exhaust no longer exited in the middle of the existing cutout. It was only about a half inch from the edge. They put it back up on the rack and re-aligned the exhaust.

Thanks,

Tim
Sure - here is list of parts needed:

From Ebay - there are many sources. These are what I purchased:
2.5" SS Step coupler to match end of SCR with 2.5" SS pipe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/282755573884

2.5" OD x 4 Feet T-304 Stainless Steel Straight Exhaust Pipe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/273539109669

2FT 2.5" 90 Degree Stainless Steel T-304 Exhaust Pipe
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274076937246

2FT 2.5" 45 Degree Stainless Steel T-304 Exhaust Pipe
same source: https://www.ebay.com/itm/274076937246

The parts above are all you need for piping. Used some very strong straight couplers made in USA rather than the thinner versions from China. I sources them from this vendor - you will need three.
https://autoplicity.com/545692-vibra...-sleeve-clamps

Those clamps are a bit expensive and I imagine the cheaper ones of eBay would work. Watched some YouTube videos on using couplers that recommended using Permatex 80335 Muffler and Tailpipe Sealer.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8033.../dp/B000BOAZM8

You need one tube and it is normally available at any auto parts store.

I got two SS pipe hangers and one SS U-band clamp from local auto part store.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...105/11701818-P
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...175/11685357-P

When I started I thought it would only take one 90deg elbow. But I quickly realized that would not work. You need one 90deg and one 45deg elbow. I went to the Winnebago on-line parts catalog for the ERA which has same exhaust system as the Interstate. It was helpful information as seen in attached screen captures from that parts site.
https://catalog3d.winnebagoind.com/menu/Parts.htm

You will need some way to cut square ends on all pieces to make them fit. I used my chop saw with a cut-off disc. Start at the SCR and dry fit parts cutting as needed. Once you have everything fabricated - disassemble. Then reassemble with sealant and tighten all clamps.

For the heat shields I used 4-in x 24-in Aluminum Round Duct Pipe from Lowes and cut to fit. You will need two pieces.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lambro-4-in...t-Pipe/3166649

For the heat shields I pop-riveted Pipe Support Straps like these from Amazon to the aluminum ducting. They are NOT stainless steel as listed, but just zinc coated. You can probably source them from Lowes or Home Depot. They act as a standoff to provide air space between the exhaust pipe and heat shield aluminum.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GJ2Y2S2

Attached the heat shields to exhaust pipe using 3" SS adjustable clamps from Lowes.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-TRIDO...amp/1001057366

Hope this helps. Ask questions if it is not clear. Since the stock tail pipe from Airstream is just uncoated mild steel all Interstate owners will eventually have to replace this tailpipe. The SS parts I used will last a long time.

This was a DIY project of necessity. I'm sure there are custom exhaust shops that can fabricate this tailpipe from SS or plain steel.

Good luck
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