Interstate black and gray valve issue

[M and R]

Originally Posted by sheakev

So here I am, on the Alaska highway, just starting our adventure to Alaska. I go to dump the Black tank for the first time and NOTHING!
-The red light does not go on
-The valve or relay makes no sound.

The fuses are all good.
The grey tank works
I have carefully opened and closed the grey tank valve (knowing it must be shut for the blank tank valve to open.
The macerator pump works
No kink in the hose.

I am currently pretty far away from any RV repair shop.

I will crawl underneath tomorrow morning and see of I can manually open the valve. From what I read it is not an easy task. Perhaps it is easy so any ideas, encouragement would be greatly appreciated!

We arrived in Soldotna, Alaska yesterday. We have the same problem with the gray tank valve. Two weeks ago, we had the same issue with the black tank valve. Prime Motors in Scarborough Maine installed a new black valve motor. Everything was fine for three dump operations, then the gray valve quit working. I am crawling under the rig today to attempt to operate the valve manually. If you get to Soldotna, maybe we can help each other.

[Mansderm161]

It makes me wonder....my motor clearly had water in it. Is the housing not sealed correctly? Water will short it out and eventually lead to corrosion. If you remove it, open it up and look inside motor housing to see if signs of moisture. Before I had the problem, I drove thru some high-ish water fleeing a hurricane. But bottom line is, the housing should not be penetrated by water.

[M and R]

I decided to try dumping one more time before crawling underneath. IT WORKED!!! I am going to leave the valve open.

[rmkrum]

Guys, what brand valve actuators are on there? I’m thinking about changing to remote controls for the dump valves but wonder if the issues you are seeing are brand-related.

I’m somewhat doubtful that they have truly well-sealed motor housings.

Most I have looked into don’t give me that much confidence that they are truly immersion proof. The part lists just don’t look like they have real sealed motors. I don’t see any gaskets and o-rings around the motor area, for example.

Add on the usual possible bad wiring harness connections or bad crimps on butt connectors and you could be having a lot of weird issues beside water in the innards.

[M and R]

I have Barker.

[Mansderm161]

Well then, that is the problem! They are so low to the ground that they will get splashed in the rain. And if they aren't sealed...its just a ticking time bomb before they short out.

[sheakev]

Originally Posted by Titus

Assuming that you are able to get the black tank valve open manually:

I got the valve open, I unplugged the wire connector going into the actuator motor and with a 12vdc source opened the valve. That's the good news.

The bad news is that the macerator pump in not turning on. It had worked earlier this morning when I opened the grey tank valve, but now it's not running. Regardless of whether the grey tank valve is open or shut.

I know there is a relay for it since it is just a toggle switch (my assumption). The fuses are all good.

If I can get the pump running I believe I will be OK.

I will search here for macerator pump articles but if any one can jump in please do so.

[Titus]

My wiring diagram shows interlocks between the gray and black dump valves. But no interlock between the valves and the pump. I see no pump relay, just a switch. Valves are on fuse 7, pump on fuse 9. Did you try turning the pump manually, using the screwdriver slot on the end of the pump shaft? Try that then check/replace the fuse.

[M and R]

My macerator has blown the fuse several times.