Interstate and portable battery generator

[3OnOurWay]

I started by posting this on another thread, but then felt bad cause I didn’t want to hijacked it.

I post here on the AI forum because I think it’s specific to our size constraints on where to fit a multiplex.

My consideration is how much of the van do I have to rip apart to remount multiplex underneath the front passenger seat limited to 2kw, how much cabling do I have to redo if it’s 3kw to the rear lounge area.

I’m still going with the consideration of just 200 ah batteries underneath the van so with those limitations in mind and the price point that this is almost half I wonder the viability or if anyone has tried this.

Is this a good / easier solution than putting in a 2000-3000 W inverter.

I just saw that Costco is carrying a very small footprint solid-state 2000 W essentially a 100ah for $1000.

My planned install would be to wire the microwave, rear TV, kitchen outlet, so that a hairdryer, microwave or smart TV or a heating blanket could run at any time toward the rear of the van but hardwired out of sight out of mind.

Thoughts on this. ?

I envisioned easier to run new 120 circuits to keep the van almost as stock as possible, A goal.

https://www.costco.com/.product.4000...h=true&nf=true

[3OnOurWay]

https://www.amazon.com/Yoshino-Solid...0DHZ1M43V?th=1

[PaulBristol]

I assume you will use a solar panel to charge it.

It is a system. It includes a battery, an inverter, and probably a 120 volt plug in to charge the battery. The solar panel is optional.

This is the same as installing the same equipment in your RV. Often owner's will install an inverter next to the existing battery bank and run 120 volt power to what ever they want to power.

Some inverters have 120 volt outlets. There are lots of options.

A 2000 watt inverter may require a 400 amp hour lead acid battery bank to run efficiently. You may get by with a 300 amp hour battery bank. A 200 amp hour lithium battery may work for a short time before needing recharging.

[3OnOurWay]

Thanks, My initial thoughts are not to use a solar panel to charge it that another thing to carry. I planned to charge Yoshino and over a weekend trip it would have sufficient charge to carry through. If more was required I considered using on board charging, solar panel / alternator to charge it as house batteries were charging/ fully charged.

I am trying to eliminate the complete system upgrade under the passenger seat / flooring off a van. Current batteries options limit me to G27 to stay in stock place under the van. I won’t give up more space under lounge to house batteries with in van.

As I think this through more and to keep a relatively stock van. I wonder connecting / wiring a pig tail into the shore connection and use this as a pseudo shore power connection. I vaguely recall seeing a thread here last year if a similar use. Two safety concerns (generator/ actual shore power would be dangerous)

I think this wiring is simpler and keep me from tearing apart RV. Though I feel this would limit the use of the 4 -20 amp outlets on the Yoshino.

I’m chasing a very specific problem I realize. Using the microwave at 5/6/7 am and not bothering others where we are camped at etc / bike race venue / boondocking.

I wonder for the $1000 I add another approx 100ah battery which had ann inverter with the ability to provide 2000w surge 3000 on 120vAC.

Has anyone used / wired a battery generator this way in their AI?

[StogieMan]

30nOW, a few years back before my upgrade, I had a 3000 Goal Zero which I wired to the 12V fuse panel. When I shut the 12v switch by the door off, the Goal Zero would power all of my 12v stuff. I also had an alternator cable that Goal Zero sold that would charge it while driving. For the AC side, I added an additional transfer switch. So basically it went like this:

Shore Power and Generator power went to the first transfer switch. The out of that transfer switch went to a second transfer switch. That was the in for one side and then the Goal Zero went to the second in of the transfer switch. The out of the second transfer switch then went to the main 120 AC Panel. The Goal Zero would be off when tied to shore power or on generator. When not tied to either shore/generator, I would turn on the Goal Zero and have AC power. I also had an 120 AC plug cable coming out of the Goal Zero to charge it when tied to shore power and it was always plugged in all the time to the outlet next to the rear wheel well.

Yes, it a bit of work and you’ll probably be better off installing a Victron Multiplus than to do all of this. However, you can just use the alternator to charge your Yoshino and just run extension cords to it for your microwave and whatever other outlets you want. For me, I got tired of all the cables, plugging in, turning on and off etc. Also, another thing to consider is that you’re not going to get much charging from solar to the Yoshino especially if you’ve depleted it way down unless you want to carry a bunch of solar panels around. Your best bet is going to be alternator charging or shore to quickly charge it up. I believe that the EcoFlow units now have a nice alternator charging kit so maybe you should look into that brand instead.

I know that I’ve posted about it somewhere and I’ll need to find the post. Either way, I hope this info helps.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Right now you have a 1,000W inverter in your van. The obvious answer would be to simply upgrade that to a 2,000W version. Pull out the old one and drop the new one and the same place. It already has solar and all the other stuff hooked up to it.

Since it's got more power draw, you likely would need to beef up the cables to it. Still that's *way* less struggle than cabling in something additional.

Bob

[3OnOurWay]

thanks both,,


I agree on initial thought take out/drop in new 2kw inverter did sound straightforward from my research on this over the past two months. Where it seems to be an issue is my requirement to find the right inverter that will fit in OEM location,the Victorn multiplex is questionable the magnum possibly with a lot of reworking under the passenger seat. I do consider, the increased draw would mean an upgrade from the AI 1/0 cables to 2/0 minimum ( short 10 ft loop) but better with 4/0 and as explored this it seems to be not so useful with still 200 ah under the coach.



The 120v Transfer switch Stoogieman explained sounds exactly what I envisioned. I don't see my need to wire / expand the Yoshino into 12v system, hmm. The AI has the 8x8 trap door under the rear lounge, useful if needed for access to Yoshino ( plus it has the app features). I think some of the use chagrging route is specific to a van due to how we use it as our means to drive around where we are staying 30 -1 hr while camping.

[uncle_bob]

Originally Posted by 3OnOurWay

thanks both,,


I agree on initial thought take out/drop in new 2kw inverter did sound straightforward from my research on this over the past two months. Where it seems to be an issue is my requirement to find the right inverter that will fit in OEM location,the Victorn multiplex is questionable the magnum possibly with a lot of reworking under the passenger seat. I do consider, the increased draw would mean an upgrade from the AI 1/0 cables to 2/0 minimum ( short 10 ft loop) but better with 4/0 and as explored this it seems to be not so useful with still 200 ah under the coach.



The 120v Transfer switch Stoogieman explained sounds exactly what I envisioned. I don't see my need to wire / expand the Yoshino into 12v system, hmm. The AI has the 8x8 trap door under the rear lounge, useful if needed for access to Yoshino ( plus it has the app features). I think some of the use chagrging route is specific to a van due to how we use it as our means to drive around where we are staying 30 -1 hr while camping.

Hi

If your are going to "tear into" someplace else, just pull out the existing inverter and run the cables to there. There are a *lot* of folks who make inverters and hybrid inverter chargers. Xantrex is one more to put on your list.

Bob

[3OnOurWay]

Update to plan: as more time spent researching

Ordered the larger one today, both arrive this week. I’m convinced the small one will get returned next Saturday.
Yoshino B4000 SST 2611Wh 4000W Solid State Portable Power Station

Costco has it for $2000 and some RV supply companies have it for $3000. Size is same as the 2000 watt and has a 30 amp power plug for easier wiring connection to ATS
If my math is correct, will double my 200 AH for same price as a new Magnum inverter would cost me. I may regret it later as some have mentioned. Today, the small footprint, 53# weight, discounted price over the yeti seems to great a value to pass up on.

[uncle_bob]

Hi

Not on sale and from Amazon (I'd get it elsewhere....) you can get three of these for $3,000 and still have money left over.


https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-Freed...62&sr=8-5&th=1

It's a *lot* better choice than a Magnum. Is it better than a Victron? It's certainly a lot smaller !!!

Bob

[3OnOurWay]

Finished install

Tomorrow still need to run through testing of shore and gas generator

For real world use, we have first trip planned one night overnight in March, there is shore power but we will stay off it to see how well it works or doesn’t for that 1 night.

Following weekend will be another 3 night with clear solar and hoping to give it a better test there.

First pics are OEM transfer switch for a 2021 Airstream interstate GL.

Next is install of new ATS which has battery generator plugged in direct 30 amps. Here also is OEM ATS feed into generator position on new ATS

We would want OEM ATS gas generator or shore to override battery gen

Took longer to empty the van storage area then complete the install. About 2 hours total.

[InterBlog]

Well, shoot, I think a separate thread on modular lithium conversion is appropriate because the thread I started on that topic pertains to the T1N Interstate, not the NCV3, and some of the physical logistics will be different due to the lay-outs and space considerations.

We are planning a Yeti Pro 4000 retrofit. The unit sits on my floor and mocks me daily with its brightly-lit display panel shining in my face… mocks me because I have not yet begun the project. My husband and I moved into our present home less than 6 months ago and our first order of business has been the completion of our Interstate’s dedicated garage so that we will be able to work in there when the mean season arrives (Houston’s wretchedly hot summer).

Simultaneously with all of that, I accepted a bunch of work contracts that have me tied up, and our garage / Interstate improvement work has been slow-going. The upside is that at least I am making the money I need to pay for both.

Anyway, carry on with this thread please. There will be good lessons in it for all of us .

[3OnOurWay]

Thanks InterBlog. This was my path to avoid retrofitting 4/0 cable and inverter changes.

Will those changes happen in 3 years possibly but then my BB 100ah batteries will be 7 years old and I’m sure with tech changes perhaps shrinking 125/150 ah batteries will fit in my existing battery boxes under the carriage, and shrinking Inverters.
In the meantime, let’s see.

There is of course a space trade off, for us in rear garage storage area I moved our LUNO modular front seat air bed from rear storage to overhead. Battery and LUNO are same size. We carried it 15k miles this year and daughter never used it

[Johnnie S]

Thanks to folks that have gone through presenting all of these options! Thought I’d drop in a reply for a similar situation/alternate solution. I have a Bluetti 200Max that I picked up when we had our Scope 18M. In that van, when I modified the thing they called a bench seat/bed to a hinged, pull-out slat bed, I removed the ridiculous 4” PVC sewer hose storage that was routed under the bench. I kept the access hatch in place, and routed a shore line out of the van to the shore plug from the Bluetti that I kept behind the passenger seat that was secured with recessed tie-down anchors.

For our AI19, I keep the 200Max in the Medium Owl box on the passenger door. I cut in a small, weatherproof hatch on the side of the Owl box so I can run the 30A shore line from the 200Max, or route charging cables in from the foldable 100W solar panel (not incredibly useful, but it will charge the 200Max about 10% in 8 hrs on a sunny day), or charge from the external GFCI if plugged in or running the generator.

We can run the Fridge, TV, lights, pump, and fan at least 8 hrs with the 200Max, and still have enough juice to brew coffee in the morning without running the generator. It will also run the AC for about an hour, but will have little power remaining for anything else. There’s room for another 200AH expansion battery pack in the box, but weight may be an issue, and I use the remaining space for tools, hoses, cables, adapters that I don’t want under the lounge.

Just throwing this out as a “cheat.” Not practical for use while driving, but it is a nice option as an alternative to running the generator at night, or as a back up in the event of generator failure.

[3OnOurWay]

Originally Posted by Johnnie S

Just throwing this out as a “cheat.” Not practical for use while driving, but it is a nice option as an alternative to running the generator at night, or as a back up in the event of generator failure.

Good approach for your needs, have you explored, would it be difficult to run cable inside to a ATS and then Bluetti would function while driving?

[Johnnie S]

Originally Posted by 3OnOurWay

Good approach for your needs, have you explored, would it be difficult to run cable inside to a ATS and then Bluetti would function while driving?

It wouldn’t be difficult, and I like how some of the folks here are doing that w/ a different portable battery gen, but we just don’t need it while driving, and hooking in the way I have it uses the existing switch. Besides, the 200Max barely clears the bench laying flat under the lounge without a 30A plug coming out of it. The MB AC keeps it cool enough in the back while driving, and we’re not going to use the microwave in motion. My wife might use her hair dryer or curling iron, which both work fine w the tv on and using the stock 1000w inverter.

I think the only thing that might be a bit improved would be brewing coffee while driving, so having the galley receptacles live for that would be a consideration for a Bluetti/Gen or Shore ATS. That might be easier than trying to re-route one of the GFI galley receptacles to the inverter. Something to think about more if I run out of other things to tinker with.

[StogieMan]

Originally Posted by 3OnOurWay

Good approach for your needs, have you explored, would it be difficult to run cable inside to a ATS and then Bluetti would function while driving?

What is it exactly that you want to accomplish? I’m no electrician but I stood at a Holiday Inn Express last night.