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Old 06-07-2018, 11:55 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by FlyFishinRVr View Post
Personally I have mine set for a 100% chg rate (factory default). I'd rather charge my batteries faster. .....

I tried this setting it immediately stop the generator with a loud clunk when wife was using the microwave at the same time. From the Magnum remote display, it reads 48-52amp at 100% and 28-30amp at 50%, so just remember to set it back if you plan on using other 120v appliances while on generator power.
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Old 06-08-2018, 04:21 AM   #22
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Went back last night after an hour and main battery reading 5v again. Auxiliary back up to 12.8. It appeared that once the Aux batteries were charged it cut off charging to main. 10 minutes later it kicked back on.

I went ahead and charged the main with a remote charger after unplugging shore power and turning battery switch off. Did not want to back-feed the BIM which occurred to me as strange thought since I really want to remove it and run it over in the driveway.

Got the main up enough to start the engine. Ran it for 30 minutes. Shut down and immediately pulled the neutral cut off at the gas pedal. Will see tonight if it held a charge.

Still committed to finding someone to do the Blue Sea swap.
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Old 06-08-2018, 05:55 AM   #23
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According to the instructions for my RE RC Magnum remote the charging current is supposed to be reduced if the other AC loads (microwave, in your case) would cause the total current to be too high. You would need to set the AC max to 20 Amps... but then you would be limiting charging current when plugged in to 30A shore power. But I think that limited charging current on shore power is OK, since you would not be in any hurry to get the batteries charged.

Per the manual :

Shore - Shore Max: This ensures the inverter AC loads receive the maximum current available from the utility/generator. Whenever the utility/generator is connected to the inverter (via AC HOT 1), the current used to power the AC loads and to charge the batteries is monitored. When the total current used to power the AC loads and charge the batteries begins to approach the Shore Max setting, the current that was used for charging the batteries is automatically reduced. This ensures the AC loads have the needed current
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Old 06-08-2018, 09:28 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Air99 View Post
I tried this setting it immediately stop the generator with a loud clunk when wife was using the microwave at the same time. From the Magnum remote display, it reads 48-52amp at 100% and 28-30amp at 50%, so just remember to set it back if you plan on using other 120v appliances while on generator power.
Interesting. I would expect it to shed the microwave load via the power control system (PCS) vs. killing the genset. Was your PCS panel showing "Gen" as the power source? Also, how long was your genset running before this happened? It needs to run for a minute or two or heavy loads (A/C in particular) can stop it.....
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:19 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by FlyFishinRVr View Post
Interesting. I would expect it to shed the microwave load via the power control system (PCS) vs. killing the genset. Was your PCS panel showing "Gen" as the power source? Also, how long was your genset running before this happened? It needs to run for a minute or two or heavy loads (A/C in particular) can stop it.....


Me too, except in my case both devices (microwave +Magnum) were operating and current draw suddenly jumped on one, causing the PCS confusion maybe? Iím not sure it was showing ďGenĒ as source. A side note...at 100% charge rate, the genset appeared to strain and the amp meter oscillated up and down, whereas at 50% itís smooth and steady. If someone can test their system and report back, we can compare notes.
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Old 06-09-2018, 08:30 AM   #26
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Ordered the Blue Sea 7622 today. Gonna dive in and get this done next week.

In terms of switch function and access - how often would you switch out of auto mode? How important is it to see the LED?

I have not explored options yet but plan on finding a location around the jump seat for installation simplicity. Maybe inside door with fuses/breakers? I see an access panel under the TV. Looks like it is access to sink plumbing in the head - so maybe on that panel or higher up behind the TV?
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Old 06-09-2018, 09:46 AM   #27
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Ordered the Blue Sea 7622 today. Gonna dive in and get this done next week.

In terms of switch function and access - how often would you switch out of auto mode? How important is it to see the LED?

I have not explored options yet but plan on finding a location around the jump seat for installation simplicity. Maybe inside door with fuses/breakers? I see an access panel under the TV. Looks like it is access to sink plumbing in the head - so maybe on that panel or higher up behind the TV?
Given wachuko's experience with having to pull new wires up to the front, I'd suggest inside the door with the fuses and breakers. You'll leave the switch in Auto mode 99% of the time. The only time you'll want to turn it "Off" is to do maintenance or troubleshooting of some other issue, and you'll only need to turn it "On" when you want to force it closed to aid in starting your coach. Since it's a switch and not a momentary device like what comes with the BIM, having it back there isn't a big deal because you can walk back, switch it on, let it sit for a minute or two while the house batteries give some charge to the chassis battery, then start the engine. With the LED in the switch, having it behind the panel will make sure it doesn't bother you at night if you're plugged into shore power.

Take your time, follow wachuko's excellent write up and diagrams, and you'll be fine. One tip I'll give you is I HIGHLY recommend you pull the quick disconnect by the accelerator and pull either of the big fuses for the house batteries before you start. Also, if you have your coach parked outside, cover the solar panels with some towels or something to keep them from generating any current. With all of that done, an "oops" won't fry you or sensitive components in your electrical system.
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Old 06-09-2018, 12:41 PM   #28
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Great points - thanks.

Didn't think of the solar panel - job will be done outside but probably in the evening.

Will pull the house battery connections. Noticed today just a little corrosion on the battery terminals as I was sliding around underneath the coach looking at the second propane switch project.

Also noticed that the awning is connected to the main battery. Still had the main battery neutral cut off switch pulled and awning would not deploy. I have been keeping the awing "on" all the time even with it retracted. Figured it didn't matter. Now I am wondering if the wind detector is running and part of my main battery draw. In a separate post I think I mentioned that I isolated 1 amp of draw from Fusion but a second draw of 0.6A coming through fuse #1 that is labeled RH door.
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:44 AM   #29
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Is your Fusion radio wired wrong?
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:28 PM   #30
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Getting ready to convert from the BIM to the ACR. I will install the switch right there under the jump seat next to the fuse panel. Since I am not running wires to the dash there are some changes to Wachuko's wiring instructions.

I have laid everything out and studied Wachuko's list while looking at the schematic. I want to measure twice and cut once so I am pausing to double check my approach. Can anyone let me know if I am making any mistakes with this wiring approach:

1. BIM Gen Set (gray) wire to green ACR with added 2 amp fuse
2. BIM Ignition (white) to brown ACR
3. BIM Dash wire (gray) abandoned - no connection
4. BIM Ground (white) to black ACR AND switch #1 (is that an OK approach or should I pull ground from somewhere else?)
5. Orange ACR abandoned - no connection
6. Yellow ACR to switch #7
7. Red ACR to switch #2
8. switch #3 jumped to switch #8
9. switch #8 to ACR coach terminal A using 3/8" ring connector with added 2 amp fuse.
10. Just confirming that both cables on the BIM coach battery terminal are moved to terminal A on the ACR. One is only 6" long so probably need to replace it given the new ACR terminal location below.

Also, I recall reading someone's post on the logistics of getting the ACR into the area where the smaller BIM is located. Not to mention the coach and chassis terminals are reversed and the short stubby cable on the coach terminal is not long enough to move. Did others move the large Magnum forward closer to the bathroom bulkhead and install the ACR sideways with terminals pointing towards the driver seat? Or did you move the ground terminal and battery switch further outboard and install the ACR with terminals pointing inboard?

Thanks for all your coaching and guidance.
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Old 06-17-2018, 12:44 PM   #31
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The ACR is symetric. It doesn't matter a bit which of the heavy battery cables go on which post. It works exactly the same either way.

In my 2014.5, everything is in a box under the couch and there was plenty of room for everything. Worst thing is that whole area looked like a bowl of spaghetti due to the sloppiness of Airstream wiring. I miss the days when I was prototyping hardware with IBM where all the cables were beautifully laced and labeled.
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Old 06-23-2018, 04:37 PM   #32
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Finally started the conversion process this afternoon and ran into a problem in the very first step. The BIM studs and ring connectors on the battery cables are too small to fit on the ACR. ACR needs 3/8". Has anyone attempted to drill out the battery cable connections for the larger stud?

Also, I found another orange/red wire with a fuse connected to the chassis stud on the BIM. If I understand the Airstream schematics this looks like it goes to the battery monitor. Should I keep that on the new ACR connection?
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:16 PM   #33
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On that wire... can you take photos of the area?

On the terminal, you are correct... and I forgot about that. Since I was moving a few things around I to accommodate the solar charger controller as well, I had to make another cable and just used the correct size terminals. But for one of the cables that I did not needed to change, I just drilled the terminal to size. You need a helper to hold that terminal tight with pliers or something... to avoid the drill bit getting stuck and the torque of the drill pulling hard.

You have the updated write up I did??

Here it is just in case:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f240...ml#post2083406
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Old 06-25-2018, 07:34 AM   #34
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Thanks Wachuko, .

Will drill out the cable connectors. I plan on clamping each one to a piece of 2x2 wood for support while drilling.

I used your write up as my baseline to jump into this project. Since I am installing the switch right under the jump seat and not running wires to the dash I noted some changes to your write up that is a few posts above this one.

I will take a pic tonight on the extra wire on the BIM terminal post. It is a smaller gage (12-14?) and has an inline fuse.
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Old 06-25-2018, 10:41 AM   #35
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I have left over cable and terminals... if you need something, just ask . But ask fast , we head out Thursday and are not back until the 4th.
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Old 06-25-2018, 03:52 PM   #36
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Here is a pic of the second wire on the BIM. It has a 2 amp fuse
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Old 06-25-2018, 09:47 PM   #37
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Yes. I had it as well... Just keep it connected in the same way.
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Old 10-05-2018, 12:51 PM   #38
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Hey Stitchy, here's a thought from an older post on this subject (sorry, gettin' old and forgot about it). From the factory, the Magnum inverter/charger is set for our Lifeline batteries with the AGM1 setting. This setting Absorbs at 14.3v, Floats at 13.1v, and Equalizes at 15.5v. The possible "gotcha" with this is due to the BIM and it's flawed settings (which unfortunately can't be changed). The BIM needs to see 13.3v in order to close. See the problem? If the house batteries are sitting all happy at 13.1v and never go low enough for the Magnum to enter Absorb mode, the BIM will never see a voltage high enough to close. This could explain your "intermittent" observation.

To test this, set your Magnum to the Flooded battery type. This will Float the house batteries at 13.4v instead of 13.1v, which is still perfectly fine for the Lifeline's and is still within their spec, but that should ensure the BIM closes because it's above the 13.3v that it needs to see in order to do so. Now with the BIM closed, all 3 batteries are connected together (2 house + 1 chassis), so all 3 should get properly maintained. I vaguely remember another forum member giving this a try and it seemed to solve his chassis battery charging issues. Again, sorry I didn't think of this sooner.....
FLYFISHINRVR - been meaning to thank you for this workaround. Finally found the thread to send the official 'Thanks'. I been using your workaround since I have noticed the chassis batt gets close to danger zone after 2 weeks of sitting even when plugged in. I knew that by just switching house disconnect to OFF for few mins. then back to ON forces my Magnum to enter Bulk or Absorb which close the BIM and tops off my chassis. But your workaround is an easy no-brainer, it is a set-it-&-forget-it workaround. . I have tracked both house & chassis batts for awhile since you posted this and confirm that it is working as you describe. This almost tempts me to not go through with my Blue Sea ACR upgrade BUT I already have it and just waiting for some down time to do upgrade. And I like the added features/benefits of Blue Sea ACR that it will be done soon.

PS. Haven't seen you here in awhile. I miss reading your posts. Thanks again!
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